Make your own test leads

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5,680
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Been slow at the shop.....It's that way at most auto repair garages around here, But I try to make the most of it by cleaning up, maintaining equipment, & fixing/buying/making tools. I've needed new leads for my Multimeters/Scope/PowerProbe for awhile now.....About destroyed every Alligator Clip adapter I own. Prefer Fluke 4mm Banana test leads but they're pretty high $. Been getting by with some cheap PVC/Vinyl jacketed leads.....I HATE them with a passion. They get hard & retain the coiled shape they're stored in, On top of them always being too short for the task smirk2 Did a Google search & wasn't impressed with the selection, But did run across this Youtube video & bought the same stuff he used. Spent around $50 after applying my Amazon store card rewards.....Around $70 full price. Stackable Bananas Alligators 90 Degree Bananas 14 ga Silicone Jacketed Wire
 

clinebarger

Thread starter
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5,680
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I recommend using the "Good Stuff" for solder, 60tin/40lead rosin core! Wear gloves & don't chew on it LOL Love the Silicone Jacketed wire & Stackable Bananas! Made 2 sets of Multimeter Leads with 90° ends & 2 leads with Stackables on both ends as Jumpers/Extensions. Came out to 6' per lead. Gonna order more wire to make some more!!! [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
Messages
364
Location
Maryland
Good looking leads! You did a very nice job of fabricating them. Now I guess I should make a couple of sets for use in electronic repairs and for auto repairs!
 
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2,021
Location
CA
I would opt for a respected name like Pomona, Fluke, Probemaster, etc https://smile.amazon.com/Probe-Master-Softie-Standard-Banana/dp/B0000WUK3K/ref=sr_1_4 The Pomona "grabber" types are essential with today"s electronics. Much better than alligators in tight quarters. I recently replaced a Honda blend door actuator. The mini grabber were the only thing that would work to test that. https://smile.amazon.com/Pomona-6343-Basic-Electronic-Test/dp/B000JFL8PC/ref=sr_1_2 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005T62WII/ref=psdc_5011675011_t1_B000JFL8PC
 
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clinebarger

Thread starter
Messages
5,680
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I like Fluke leads a lot, But in my business....They get damaged eventually. I have T-pins & Needle/pin probes with 4mm banana jacks for tight backprobing. The big alligators are handy on battery posts & larger bolts for a ground source. I dislike those screw-on mini alligators & prefer the Thexton 490's.....Even solder some wire to them if needed. Good idea.....I'll solder a length of the silicone jacketed lead to one of the Thexton 490's & put a banana jack on the other end. I'll update after buying some more wire! We all do things differently, I deal with direct current.......What's the worst that could happen? Grabber type/pierce probes are obviously not essential as I don't use or need them
 
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1,005
Location
Alberta
Don't worry about chewing the solder, but don't breath the fumes while soldering. That's where the lead issue comes into play. Fumes extraction or airflow is important with that much lead.
 
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9,125
Location
Marshfield , MA
Great looking stuff. Back when I was doing shipping+ receiving for a small phone /data outfit. Patch cables with all sorts of specs were hand made and big buxl. I doubt if any of the stuff is US made these days. grin2
 
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clinebarger

Thread starter
Messages
5,680
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Originally Posted by Trav
Nice job on the cables. Are those long ratcheting box wrenches Mountain RM6?
There the Platinum/ATD branded ones......Same as the Mountain RM6. The 19mm came apart first time I used it because the circlip wasn't seated during assembly. I fixed that & they have been great since. Soak the heads in some ATF & torque on them a few times to free up the back-drag.
 
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