VW 508.00 Does it really matter?

And 508.00 is not designed for GDI engines?

It is, just the triple the price of GDI oil you can get at Walmart. The VW oil is designed for a 10,000 service interval and is colored green so VW can deny engine failure warranty claims. If you are changing at 5,000 miles the VW oil is overkill and a waste of money. You can use it, sure. If you want a great, great GDI oil, get: https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-Syn...mitsu+0w20&qid=1616800399&s=automotive&sr=1-1. It's what the Japanese cars come with... and those are the cars that last for g'dam ever, not VWs.
 
Its an oil specification that is used to help with fuel emissions, it only increases mpg by not too much, if your car is under warranty still I would recommend still using 0w20, but please don't go riding rough or letting the tachometer go above 3,000 rpm, Volkswagen still uses cast iron blocks and from what i've been taught and seen is that the tsi does not have a higher pressure oil pump to help sling the oil aggressively when thinner engine oils are used.

After warranty, I would recommend using a 5w30 or 5w40. Cast iron blocks were used for thicker oils in mind, but since your engine is equipped with a turbocharger I would avoid using a straight grade or above 15w40. keeping it a 5w40 is perfect after warranty, I don't want your engine getting worn out in the name of fuel efficiency.

Wut?

Oil pumps are positive displacement and either crank or cam driven. That means the faster the engine spins, the faster the pump spins. So at 5,000RPM that pump is moving significantly more oil than at 3,000RPM.

Block material is wholly irrelevant, whomever you heard that from, don't listen to them again.

Thinner oil does not require a higher pressure oil pump. Pressure is resistance to flow, a thinner oil will spray MORE, all things equal, at the same pressure. On a looser engine with more side leakage you may need a higher volume pump to keep up, but that's going to the extremes of loose purpose-built race rigs and outside the scope of factory engines with OEM-style clearances which are typically pretty tight.

What you sacrifice with a thinner oil is tolerance of fuel dilution (thinning) which can be an issue with DI engines and of course a lower MOFT; less of a buffer between parts.

Just because an engine is turbo and DI doesn't mean it isn't fit (or designed) to run on an xw-20, but if it fuel dilutes like crazy then it might cause one to take pause and perhaps consider stepping up a grade outside of warranty. Will this actually make a difference? perhaps not, but it can't hurt. This has nothing to do with block material however and everything to do with the oil getting thinned further by fuel.
 
It is, just the triple the price of GDI oil you can get at Walmart.
VW 508 is available from the dealers for 6 bucks a quart, and can be had for less elsewhere. I'm not aware of any oil, much less a top tier synthetic you can buy at Wally's for 2 bucks a quart.


If you want a great, great GDI oil, get: https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-Syn...mitsu+0w20&qid=1616800399&s=automotive&sr=1-1. It's what the Japanese cars come with... and those are the cars that last for g'dam ever, not VWs.

The Idemitsu oil you linked is over 7 bucks a quart. :unsure:
 
VW 508 is available from the dealers for 6 bucks a quart, and can be had for less elsewhere. I'm not aware of any oil, much less a top tier synthetic you can buy at Wally's for 2 bucks a quart.




The Idemitsu oil you linked is over 7 bucks a quart. :unsure:

The hell I'm walking into a dealer to buy oil, hahahahahaha. You make me giggle.
 
It is, just the triple the price of GDI oil you can get at Walmart. The VW oil is designed for a 10,000 service interval and is colored green so VW can deny engine failure warranty claims. If you are changing at 5,000 miles the VW oil is overkill and a waste of money. You can use it, sure. If you want a great, great GDI oil, get: https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-Syn...mitsu+0w20&qid=1616800399&s=automotive&sr=1-1. It's what the Japanese cars come with... and those are the cars that last for g'dam ever, not VWs.
I am just asking bcs. I worked on development of oils that are approved by VW, and it is not at all what you assuming. You make an assumption based on the fact that you can buy oil in Wal Mart that is 0W20 and somehow it is same thing as VW approved oil. Also, your assumption is from get go flawed as you put all GDI engines as same.
by the way, there are numerous oils in Wal Mart that are approved for European vehicles and not any more expensive than your “oil for GDI engines.”
 
Haha, but the only evidence i can prove is that cast iron doesn't dissipate heat as effectively as aluminum engines with cast iron liners.

Im quite sure the vw's have a 1.5 gallon capacity still. If it was 2 or 3 gallon capacity its a different story.
 
in your warmer area I would run your favorite brand fake synthetic in a 10-30 flavor!! if you look at Noacks even botique oils of lighter viscosity show a higher noack which = more burn off!! i am in Pa + run quaker state ultimate durability year around in my cars + truck i service BUT my hot rod 2001 audi TT 225Q gets Redlines performance oil. my traded 2001 jetta went well on 10-30 for 200 thou until i traded it running well
 
I am just asking bcs. I worked on development of oils that are approved by VW, and it is not at all what you assuming. You make an assumption based on the fact that you can buy oil in Wal Mart that is 0W20 and somehow it is same thing as VW approved oil. Also, your assumption is from get go flawed as you put all GDI engines as same.
by the way, there are numerous oils in Wal Mart that are approved for European vehicles and not any more expensive than your “oil for GDI engines.”
I don't see where he stated the Walmart and VW 0w20 are the same. He's arguing that if changing at 5K miles, you can use a Synthetic 0w20 sold at Walmart.
 
I don't see where he stated the Walmart and VW 0w20 are the same. He's arguing that if changing at 5K miles, you can use a Synthetic 0w20 sold at Walmart.
VW508.00/509.00 doesn’t only mean longer OCI. There are other aspects of approval that are more stringent than your average ILSAC GF6 or whatever. When it comes to European approvals, “I will cut OCI in half” doesn’t work. Certain OCI is just one of the requirements.
 
We all know 508.00 is quality a product but so are many ILSAC/SP oils out there.
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Cost aside...would there be any benefit in running a VW 508 oil in a Japanese, Korean or American made engine designed for 0w20 (or 5w20)?
The VW 508 oils are not backward compatible. In the words of one well known oil producer "May not provide adequate protection in engins not specifying VW 504". This in itself makes me question the superiority of this wonder lubricant.
 
The VW 508 oils are not backward compatible. In the words of one well known oil producer "May not provide adequate protection in engins not specifying VW 504". This in itself makes me question the superiority of this wonder lubricant.
The lubricant is IMO superior to other 0W20 lubricants (with exception of MB 229.71, BMW LL14, 17).
It is not superior to VW504.00/507.00
 
Since we have absolute proof here about effectiveness of thick oils, I want apology from all you thin oil lovers :)
Apology is only effective face to face and if followed up with box of chocolate, candy or flowers.
Be careful asking for apology on internet. If you happen to get one, it most likely means FU. :)
 
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