Audi 3.0L: Amsoil AFL VW 502 vs Amsoil EOT VW 504 vs Extra Virgin Olive

Joined
Nov 14, 2024
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Location
los angeles, ca
I'm an engineer that likes to wrench on cars that races; I overanalyze everything, usually resulting in absolute paralysis. Still, oil hurts my brain. I've read through a bunch of posts here, and have yet to find clarity on my specific situation.

Facts
I have a MY19 Audi Q7 3.0L (s/c) that calls for VW504 that I bought CPO w/ 10k miles. When I got the car I assumed it had VW 504 0w30 (but can't be certain). The first OC was done by the dealer, presumably with the same VW 504 0w-30. My first OC (car's 2nd OC) was with the same VW 504 0w-30 as the MY19+ calls for the 504 spec (the previous MYs seemed to call for 502). I _think_ I know that 504 isn't necessarily superior to 502, and I _think_ I know that 504 was mainly in response to lower sulfur content in fuel (car is in SoCal 95% of the time, AZ the other 5%).

I've been an Amsoil guy for years (for no reason other than it's served me well and the devil I know). I emailed Amsoil back in 2021 to ask about a 504 oil, they replied that the car needs 502 and that I should go with the 5w40 MS (AFL) oil. So I promptly ordered a couple cases and have been using it with OE filters for my changes - not realizing that the switch to VW 504 was MY19+ (and I assume the Amsoil person didn't know that either).

I send in samples to Blackstone every change, and their suggestion has been to maintain a 12k miles OCI - which is what I have done. This motor is thirsty though; it's taken 0.5L between the 3rd & 4th, then 0.5L between the 4th & 5th changes. Then I _think_ 2.3L between the 5th & 6th when the dealer switched it back to VAG VW 0w-30 (due to a PCV valve failure and replacement). I've since switched back to Amsoil AFL.

Questions
1. Should I maintain the Amsoil 5w40 AFL (VW 502) or switch to their (newer?) 0w30 EOT (VW 504) that Amsoil recommends now?

2. If the answer above is to switch to the EOT, should I bail on the remaining AFL I have? Said another way, am I doing a disservice to my motor by staying with the thicker 5w40 over the suggested 0w30?

3. Should I be concerned with the increasing oil consumption? The guys at the dealer tell me it's a thirsty motor and that 2L between changes is not unusual. But would consumption increase with the switch to the thicker Amsoil (from 0w30 to 5w40)? Again, my brain hurts.

4. Should I consider a different OCI? I've treated my Blackstone suggestion as gospel, but with a Mityvac changes on this motor are trivial.

If there's some RTFM that I should be doing, please advise! I swear I've beaten down every door I can find before posting!

Most current Blackstone report (missing my last OC because lazy). Please don't mind the comment about walnut and carmel: I include tasting notes in all the samples I send in to Blackstone. 😁

Screenshot 2024-11-14 at 3.50.26 PM.webp
 
Have you been to AudiWorld at all?


I wouldn't consider your consumption to be that extreme at all. They are notorious for gobbling much more than that that when the oil control rings stick.

We bought a used 2018 Q7 with 84,000 miles or so on it and it took a Qt of oil in just the first 400 miles! I did a Berryman's B12 piston soak as the oil control rings were stuck. After the soak I immediately followed that up with a BG EPR flush and am now running the Valvoline Restore & Protect in the 5W-30 flavor. We have now put on 2400 miles since and its used zero oil since this.


Our 18 is supposed to have the VW502 40 weight oil in it, but I want to run the VR&P in it to clean up the pistons and rings after the piston soak, so no choice other than the 5-30 in the VR&P. The 10,000 mile dealer changes with the Castrol 5-40 certainly did our 3.0 no favors and caused the rings to stick like many others, so there is that. I dont think it makes any difference wether you feed it 30 or 40 weight. Analysis will tell you that answer I guess. I plan to run 5K mile changes on the VR&P after this first run hangout at 2500 miles. If I was to go back to a different oil it'd be the 0-40 Mobile One as it really treated all my Euro vehicles very well over the years, its also keep the internals very clean and never had any oil consumption in any of them either.
 
5k mile OCIs is the most important change you can make to help prevent stuck piston rings, a mess in your PCV system, corrosive oil, and clogged oil pickup screen. A TBN of 1.1 might be the smallest I’ve ever seen. That’s below the starting TAN of motor oils and some wisdom says change the oil if TAN > TBN. Blackstone comments are typically either useless or bad advice. They don’t offer testing of oxidation and nitration, and their test for fuel percentage is an underestimate. If you do more UOAs, choose a lab that offers more and better tests.

I’d use up the existing Amsoil AFL oil, then switch to an oil meeting VW 504/507. I would change the existing oil well before 5k miles to get the nasty leftovers out early from your previous fill and because the new oil you added is prematurely taxed by being mixed with the previous oil’s leftovers.
 
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