It’s not going to cure piston slap.Yep another valvoline restore post..
Has anyone found this oil in eu? Paying 40 euro to ship it from usa is not viable
Ive got a citroen c1 @220k km that has more piston slap than I would like.
Any tips or oil recommendations
Try Rislone Engine Treatment, it works faster.Yep another valvoline restore post..
Has anyone found this oil in eu? Paying 40 euro to ship it from usa is not viable
Ive got a citroen c1 @220k km that has more piston slap than I would like.
Any tips or oil recommendations
Faster is not really what you want when cleaning up an engine. It’s much safer to clean it up slowly in thousands of miles than to dislodge all kinds of carbon and sludge in ten minutes of idling
I am a fan of VRP, but Rislone is not a flush. What I meant was it will clean in one OCI compared to 4 Oci for VRP. Plus Rislone is easily available in Europe.Faster is not really what you want when cleaning up an engine. It’s much safer to clean it up slowly in thousands of miles than to dislodge all kinds of carbon and sludge in ten minutes of idling
My mistake, I assumed that it was a flush. One OCI type of a cleaner would be safe.
Piston slap is too much clearance in the cylinder. ie its worn out. Nothing can fix it beyond a rebuild. A heavier weight oil might dull the sound?
What's that going to do? ATF has no cleaners in it.
Quite the opposite. It's an oil so doesn't hurt anything short term and will scrub an engine clean. Don't use synthetic. Just add it to current oil and let it idle, don't drive anywhere. Drain. You'll be amazed at what comes out. Bought a truck with 225k miles and it cleaned it right out. My father did it all the time on the farm growing up with machinery. Having said that I've never done it on a vehicle with a turbo. If it's slugged I wouldn't hesitate to do it, flush, doing it again, flush.
It doesn't have anything in it to "scrub" with. Transmissions, which are hydraulic systems, don't have to contend with blow-by gasses, soot, combustion byproducts, moisture...etc that engine oils do, which is why engine oils have considerable quantities of dispersants and detergents in them, to pick up those contaminants and keep them from agglomerating, while getting the larger ones that can be caught by an oil filter, to the oil filter.
how many times have you done it? Go get grease on your hands and wash them with engine oil and look at them. Then go wash them with standard ATF fluid. They'll be clean as the day you were born. I've drained and used it on lots of tools. Works great for pliers, crescent wrenches, and pipe wrenches due to our salty air.It doesn't have anything in it to "scrub" with. Transmissions, which are hydraulic systems, don't have to contend with blow-by gasses, soot, combustion byproducts, moisture...etc that engine oils do, which is why engine oils have considerable quantities of dispersants and detergents in them, to pick up those contaminants and keep them from agglomerating, while getting the larger ones that can be caught by an oil filter, to the oil filter.
Now, "back in the day" ATF was made with Sperm Whale oil, which was an ester, and esters often have high solvency. At the time, engine oils were also garbage, so ATF of the period was in fact a "cleaner". But modern ATF is just a standard Group II or Group III base oil with a dye, AW package and FM's, it has no cleaning chemistry.
See this post from @MolaKule (who is a Tribologist and formulates oils and ATF's) on this subject:
I've gotten ATF on my hands many times (used to use it as gun lube). Behaved the same as a light oil (5W-20/0W-20).
It's not all the same. You can't use a synthetic. ATF-4 from autozone will clean gunk out of a motor or clean your tools.
Well, again, we can ask the formulator who has commented on this @MolaKule because you are arguing with his expertise on this matter, not my opinion. And ATF +4 is synthetic, it has to be under license. Both ATF +3 and ATF +4 are Group III based products with a strict recipe for the license.
