I thought the I/C’s always got a steel sleeve?
Used oil in oil-burning lawn mower
- Thread starter Lockasiam
- Start date
No filter on this I assume? Just be extra careful to keep the gritties out of the used oil. For your health, it would probably be better to use new oil as it has less contaminants and heavy metals?
A jug of whatever 15W40 is cheapest would probably be better, burn a bit less, and has less bad stuff in it, IMHO.
A jug of whatever 15W40 is cheapest would probably be better, burn a bit less, and has less bad stuff in it, IMHO.
The commercial engines got sleeves......but towards the end of the flat heads life.....I think about 5 years before end of production the bores were not sleeved but instead used high silica content blocks.
There are labels all over the mower that say “cast iron sleeve”
It seeps out over time but it burns enough to create some fog when under heavy load and when started
Im sure it could run on it but 5w-30 isnt really the right oil for that engine. It should be getting SAE 30, not 5w-30
What’s the long term intent for the mower? Run it till it blows or try to fix it up on the cheap and use it?
Most older Briggs engines call for straight 30 weight oil. Used 5W-30, with the lost of viscosity would be pretty thin, and would like burn more. A straight 30 or a 15W-40. or a 20W-40 would be better.
My 2¢
My 2¢
I don't think the cold rating matters at all here. A 5W-30 is still going to conform to 30 weight oil rating when hot. The 5W when cold would just ensure that the oil is flung around / pumped easier when it is cold vs the straight weight oil. And a cold 5W-30 is still going to be far more viscous than a hot 30W anyhow.
The loss of viscosity here is (if anything) a benefit to getting the engine lubricated quicker when it is cold, especially if it is a splash-lubed system.
We’re going to drop the pulley size on the transmission and fill it with gear oil, past that I’m sure the plans for the engine are just keep using it until it blows. We have a newer I/C with ohv lined up for it when that happens but it needs a carburetor
wouldn’t the 5w30 being a synthetic mean it shears up instead of down
2005 Dodge grand caravan 3.8L
I put 5w30 in it for winter and 10w30 in it for summer
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2024
- Messages
- 1,474
Briggs recommends sae30 & 5w30 full synthetic. manual to my old craftsman mower stated use of 10w30 could have higher oil consumption above a certain temperature
In that case, just run the cheapest 20w-50 you can find and send it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Te...d4GM&athancid=618910207&athposb=0&athena=true
Heavier weight oils will help minimize blow by and reduce smoking. Also replace the air filter if it looks bad.
I’ve considered that
Also check the crankcase breather and make sure it’s not plugged. Pull the tube off the carb/air box side and make sure you can feel pressure pulsing as it runs. If weak or no pulsing felt, either need to replace the breather itself or pull the old one and clean it.
Plugged breather will cause oil leaks and smoking due to excessive crankcase pressure.
Last edited:
Shears up? What does that mean?
At least. Or a 50-grade of some sort.
Similar threads
