Toyota dealer uncertainty in the oil viscosity used

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So, it's been one year since my car was manufactured in August 2019, and I took it to a local Toyota dealer today for the yearly oil change with the odometer at 5,851 miles, wearing my mask of course. This would be the first oil change since the factory fill, and it's a courtesy maintenance service during the first two years.

I chose this particular dealer because it was highly rated after I had bad experiences the last couple of times I took my car to another dealer. The other dealer put a P-metric tire instead of an ISO-metric tire, forgot to put on the valve caps, and forgot to put on the coolant reservoir cap.

I looked at the service request the service advisor printed out, and it showed SAE 0W-20 instead of the officially recommended SAE 0W-16. I showed it to him, and he showed me that on his computer it's showing the correct SAE 0W-16 viscosity and the technician would go with the latter. He convinced me that what was on the paper was perhaps some generic viscosity grade.

He said it would take about two hours; so, I decided to have a three-mile walk to do some shopping at Target and Smart & Final in 90-degree humid weather, carrying a heavy bag on the way back, which wasn't actually that bad, as I badly needed some exercise and sun with our coronavirus-restricted situation here. The car was ready about 20 minutes after I returned. They also gave it a courtesy wash in their very basic car wash even though I had later declined it when I saw and rethought it. I examined the valve caps and under the hood to make sure no caps were missing this time. Then I sat in the car and looked at the sticker on the window: "0W-20."

Should anyone care about this? Of course, everyone should. It has nothing to with whether 0W-20 is OK in this car or not. It has to do with principle. When you take your car to the dealer, you expect them to follow the official recommendations, whatever they are. If they don't, then you have little reason to trust what they are doing. What was the viscosity used by the technician? Did he bother to look at the oil-filler cap? I will never know. Sometimes you wonder if they have changed the oil at all.
thats exactly why i always watch whats going in my car,i stand near the car the whole time.dont trust nobody.
 
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according to someone here (berla?), Red Line which also has lots of Moly, stops the hemi tick ... Based on one of the Ram sites he visited.
 
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according to someone here (berla?), Red Line which also has lots of Moly, stops the hemi tick ... Based on one of the Ram sites he visited.
Yeah he is VERY active in the very long Synthetic Oil thread on RAMforum

I tried the RL and it did make my Hemi sound quieter. But I drive so little (6K/year before Covid, not even close now), it seems a waste to change out $65 worth of oil once a year, so Im searching for less expensive, easier to obtain oils.

Already tried PYB and PUP and honestly PYB sounded better BUT I deal with cold weather and short trips, so I didnt want to run conventional all year.

QSUD (2017 formulation) is quieter than PUP, not as good as RL but it was basically free (Advance Auto clearance + rebates), but alas I dont have any more of the 2017 formulation. Have some RGT up next, and if I dont like that Ill try Valvoline Advanced.
 
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I honestly don't see the problem using 0w20 vs 0w16. The engine is not going to explode and the only difference will be 0.02 % reduction in fuel economy. I try to pick my battles and this is one I would not bother with. Enjoy the free service.
 
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It was about the earlier posts referencing the pour point of TGMO. It looks like it's not that great... for a 0W-20 oil, that is.
Unfortunately pour point (which isn't really being measured in that video) has been shown to not accurately represent the starting conditions in an ICE. That's why the winter rating exists.

Yet the ignorant videos are still being made to wow the masses.
 
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Unfortunately pour point (which isn't really being measured in that video) has been shown to not accurately represent the starting conditions in an ICE. That's why the winter rating exists.

Yet the ignorant videos are still being made to wow the masses.


That video is beyond ignorant. Using beads and whatever to demonstrate the properties of synthetic oil is laughable at best.

That test has so many holes in it. The “actor” has nothing better to do I guess. He (?) needs a job.
 
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More fake synthetic where a majority PAO would pour easily at -40c/f

But SO the engine starts. What then.

But alternator bearings, wheel bearings, rear and front crank seals, boots, water pump seals
are all going to get trashed.

If you don't have to ( professionally) NEVER drive at temps where C and F meet

Just my take - and I have had this stuff fail on new Toyotas at sub zero temps.

I'm not driving at 10 below F or colder
 
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Unfortunately pour point (which isn't really being measured in that video) has been shown to not accurately represent the starting conditions in an ICE. That's why the winter rating exists.

Yet the ignorant videos are still being made to wow the masses.
Agreed. Oil pumps don't pour the oil, they pump it.
 
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That video is beyond ignorant. Using beads and whatever to demonstrate the properties of synthetic oil is laughable at best.

That test has so many holes in it. The “actor” has nothing better to do I guess. He (?) needs a job.
Unfortunately pour point (which isn't really being measured in that video) has been shown to not accurately represent the starting conditions in an ICE. That's why the winter rating exists.

Yet the ignorant videos are still being made to wow the masses.

The person who made this video is an Amsoil dealer. I happen to like Amsoil products. YouTube is mostly entertainment, with facts being a distant second. In fact, I have no idea how "pour point" is actually measured, so if someone wants to show me, I'm very eager to learn.
 
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The person who made this video is an Amsoil dealer. I happen to like Amsoil products. YouTube is mostly entertainment, with facts being a distant second. In fact, I have no idea how "pour point" is actually measured, so if someone wants to show me, I'm very eager to learn.


Your initial comment on this video was more of a swipe at TGMO than anything else.

If you want to learn about oil then this is the place.

 
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Your initial comment on this video was more of a swipe at TGMO than anything else.

Following what I read about its pour point in this thread, it isn't very reassuring, to say the least, that it behaves like this, for a 0W-20, when frozen. Of course, having never looked up how the pour point is actually measured, my comment and post was shortsighted, and I'm sorry for that.

If you want to learn about oil then this is the place.

I actually read most of it a good while ago, though I understand why you told me that. I have no issue with you, but sometimes I like to add a bit of humor to my posts. In this instance, it was misguided.

It’s explained in ASTM D97

I just read through it, and the oil needs to be pre-heated first. It's also interesting how it can change over time as oil goes through heating and cooling cycles.
 
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Another point;

Looking at this video again, I paused it when he showed the temperature readings. I saw -56Ffor the TGMO and -57F for the Honda. I hope I read those correctly.

At those temperatures any oil is going to be severely tested.
 
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