does a larger oil pan exist for your application?
Should I look for different oil than M1 0w40?
- Thread starter Ruturaj
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Unless your oil is 280+ consistently and having follow-thru heat issues with the coolant via OEM heat exhanger (not familar with the Subaru engines here, only the VWs) I wouldn't hassle with it. Tracking my VW with 270-280 oil temps an no real issues beyond hot days with coolant getting up to 240. My car is turbo and would benefit greatly from a 19-row external oil cooler that divorces the oil/coolant by removing the factory heat exchanger - not there yet...may do hood venting first.
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- Dec 28, 2014
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Oh ok…watching that Lake Speed video the starting oxidation value was lower than in the past (if I remember). I figured PAO would need the esters for increased solubility. Good to know it still has the PAO.
They are using something else to now to ensure additive package solubility. The rumor is they are using alkylated naphthalene. I don't think M1 0W-40 was high PAO even in the SN version though, it was still using a good amount of GTL/Group III as well.
Verus is working on one, announced, but not yet launched. I will probably hold on for better design though.
until then I would look at high end boutique oils with high ester and hths content
I agree 100%. I see no point to the 20, once the engine is warm it is a mute point regardless of ambient temperature .
I would skip the 2nd (winter) oil change. It's just 1000 extra miles of driving. You can still keep the receipts if worried. Short tripping (10 min) is not a good idea in general but you are above 50F. I would still drive it longer.
if you are worried about the oil "capability" after the track days, change it then with the same 0W track oil and drive it (1000 winter miles) till next year.
You can save your 0W-20 receipts without changing the oil. Keep the 0W-20's in your garage. They'll come in handy if you need to lube door hinges, etc.
if you are worried about the oil "capability" after the track days, change it then with the same 0W track oil and drive it (1000 winter miles) till next year.
You can save your 0W-20 receipts without changing the oil. Keep the 0W-20's in your garage. They'll come in handy if you need to lube door hinges, etc.
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I would skip the 2nd (winter) oil change. It's just 1000 extra miles of driving. You can still keep the receipts if worried. Short tripping (10 min) is not a good idea in general but you are above 50F. I would still drive it longer.
if you are worried about the oil "capability" after the track days, change it then with the same 0W track oil and drive it (1000 winter miles) till next year.
You can save your 0W-20 receipts without changing the oil. Keep the 0W-20's in your garage. They'll come in handy if you need to lube door hinges, etc.
Short trip is unavoidable in my case. All places I go to are less than 10 minutes away, mostly grocery stores, my physical therapy etc, I mostly run late to PT and then directly to home. I can keep the car running for 10 minutes, if that helps. My work is 20 minutes away. Longest drives I take to are to track, 1.5 hour then driving on track and back.
I am thinking I can pump it out after track day and put new one in there rather than draining from bottom.
What exactly are you trying to say? That M1 0w40 isn’t capable other than -35*?
Simply correcting the post I replied to which appears to have the misconception that a 0W-20 and 0W-40 will have the same “cold” viscosity. Obviously they both qualify as a 0W so will crank and pump at the test temperatures, but the 0W rating doesn’t tell you too much about the viscosity above (warmer than) the test conditions. The 0W-20 is quite a bit thinner than the 0W-40 at freezing. Whether or not that’s consequential is another matter.
Stick to XW40 on track! You are aware of pressure issues. Stick with something well into 13cst like M1 0W40. Other good option is Motul X-Cess 5W40 as it has higher HTHS at 3.8.
There is no 0W30 A40. Porsche A40 are 40 and 50 grades.
Only 30 grade that had A40 was GC 20yrs ago. But since than Porsche excluded any oil that is not minimum 40.
If you can't avoid the 1000 miles of short trips during winter, I would change the oil after winter. Now that I know short trips are unavoidable, and if I wanted to do only one oil change per year, I would do it after winter not after the track days as I previously suggested. Just to get the diluted oil out. Run it long and hot before changing the oil.
We also don't know how shot your oil is after your track days.
Basically 2 oil changes as you are doing is starting to sound better and better. lol
I would pump it out after track days and use the same 0W-40 for winter. And after winter, change the oil & filter ... Just to be on the safe side. Anyway, that's what I would do. I'm sure some experts may disagree. Otherwise you have to continuously (i.e. more than 1) do UOAs and all that jazz ... Easier to change the oil twice and get it over with imho.
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I don't know if it's working well because I don't have UOA or oil pressure sensor etc. I went with it because it was well regarded oil on the forum for years, I am asking again if that has changed because of formula change. Plus I am getting oil hotter than I used to, more sessions than last year, more heat etc. So I am just reevaluating.
I'd run 0w-30 year round and with only 4k miles a year I'd do one oil and filter change a year. In fact you could let it go to 6000 miles or a year and a half, we are talking full synthetic here.
It has Porsche A40. I ran it to 300f on track and did 5k OCI. Sleep well.
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