Should I look for different oil than M1 0w40?

[Patman]

You're overcomplicating things for no good reason. Just run the manufacturer recommended 0W-20. Some 0W-20 oils are slightly better than others, like Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol LL17 0W-20, etc. It's a high compression ratio 2.4L engine, naturally aspirated, nothing special. The manufacturer recommended 0W-20 should provide plenty of protection all year around. I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.

He does mention that he tracks his car in the summer and sees elevated oil temperatures though so his choice of 0w40 is a wise one if he’s planning on keeping the car for a long while. If he’s only going to keep it for 3-4 years then I agree that 0w20 will serve him well enough to get to that point.

 

[Lawnman23]

I have been running mobil1 FS 0w40 for summer and 0w20 in winters, since Subaru needs twice a year oil change.

What do you mean by Subaru needs twice a year change?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

What do you mean by Subaru needs twice a year change?

(his) Subaru needs twice a year change. One viscosity for track - other for warranty receipts.

If one keeps the engine clean like I do, no receipts are needed. They can ask for them, but they cannot implement warranty denial, not without proof of ownership negligence. They need to show pics of the engine neglected, or show us in-person. They need to show proof, that our engine needed Severe Maintenance Service (shorter OCIs) and/or show proof the engine was run periodically too low on oil.

I haven't used 5w20 oil cap oil in either Hyunkia we own, since the first OCI at 3k, now 5/6 years ago.

 

[Ruturaj]

What do you mean by Subaru needs twice a year change?

Owners manual.

 

[Ruturaj]

You're overcomplicating things for no good reason. Just run the manufacturer recommended 0W-20. Some 0W-20 oils are slightly better than others, like Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol LL17 0W-20, etc. It's a high compression ratio 2.4L engine, naturally aspirated, nothing special. The manufacturer recommended 0W-20 should provide plenty of protection all year around. I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.

I do track days in summer, that puts engine oil at 250F for 5-7 x 20 minutes sessions x on 8-10 track days. My car would probably loose pressure. If I was driving on road only, sure. I won't drive my car on track with 0w20.

 

[addyguy]

Another option is Castrol Edge 0W-30 A3/B3, yeah ‘GC’.

 

[Ruturaj]

He does mention that he tracks his car in the summer and sees elevated oil temperatures though so his choice of 0w40 is a wise one if he’s planning on keeping the car for a long while. If he’s only going to keep it for 3-4 years then I agree that 0w20 will serve him well enough to get to that point.

Thanks, yes, 5-7 x 20 minutes sessions a day x 8-10 times a year. I should be changing oil between, I would probably get UOA, so far I have had 4 and I have planned 3 more at least.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Owners manual.

That's not strictly enforced, if its low miles kept. My wife did 5k per year and I had Kia manager dismiss her needing two oil changes 2.5k apart.

I never told the service manager I change at 3k regardless. I just wanted to know if they flex at-all on the six month OCI verbage in the Manual.

 

[TiGeo]

You're overcomplicating things for no good reason. Just run the manufacturer recommended 0W-20. Some 0W-20 oils are slightly better than others, like Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol LL17 0W-20, etc. It's a high compression ratio 2.4L engine, naturally aspirated, nothing special. The manufacturer recommended 0W-20 should provide plenty of protection all year around. I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.

They will when they track it.

 

[Revving2Redline]

You're overcomplicating things for no good reason. Just run the manufacturer recommended 0W-20. Some 0W-20 oils are slightly better than others, like Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol LL17 0W-20, etc. It's a high compression ratio 2.4L engine, naturally aspirated, nothing special. The manufacturer recommended 0W-20 should provide plenty of protection all year around. I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.

Unless it's being a track car. I see Corvette had listed 15w50 in recent owners manuals but 5w30 for all else. I think he should at least be in the 30w during sport track driving. Might look into a oil cooler from HKS or GReddy regardless.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I do track days in summer, that puts engine oil at 250F for 5-7 x 20 minutes sessions x on 8-10 track days. My car would probably loose pressure. If I was driving on road only, sure. I won't drive my car on track with 0w20.

Unless it's Redline or similar with it 2.9 hths for 0w20 I can't say for certain it's enough. I still think a oil cooler and upgraded fluid for the tranny are a must

 

[Plumb Bob]

I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.

He will see less wear. It has no choice; higher viscosity keeps parts father away.

 

[chris719]

I think the route of the problem (at least with me) is that the Mobil1 0W40 FS was my emotional darling, it gave me PAO and now it has changed (again) and the PAO is gone.

I’m one of those types that wants a high starting oxidation number showing me the PAO/Ester, higher quality base stocks. And that apparently is just GONE from all the off the shelf oils right now. Now, outside of certifications and licenses, there really isn’t much of a difference or the feeling that I’m getting “more” or “better”. So, now I might just go with price and rebates again, and maybe I should have all along?? I think Pennzoil Euro may be my next oil.

It still has PAO according to sds, just not the ester.

 

[chris719]

Why have you dismissed using 0w30 A40 during winters.
Curious as-to why you won't drive the Subie under 50 degrees.

There’s no such thing as a 30 grade A40 or C40 oil.

 

[chris719]

How does 0W-40 in summer differ from 0W-20 in winter, since both of these oils have the same winter rating?

0W-40 is still much thicker than 0W-20 at lower temps. I would run the 40 personally year round and do in my cars, but the 0W rating only tells you about behavior near -35 and -40 where CCS and MRV are tested.

 

[930.engineering]

.
I'd use M1 ESP 5W-30 year round. Thinner near freezing as
0W-40 and almost same HTHS but lower VII and Noack loss.
Swapping between viscosities will inevitably dilute the other
weight. Maybe you happen to run a 0W-30ish brew actually . . .
.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Yes the one that's cheaper or on sale with a rebate and cheaper!

 

[TiGeo]

Unless you are having oil temp issues flowing through to the coolant temps getting out of hand no need for an external oil cooler IMHO. More crap to break or leak. Can be more challenging oil changed. Etc. NA engine shouldn't be as much of an issue as FI

 

[Revving2Redline]

Yes the one that's cheaper or on sale with a rebate and cheaper!

sounds great, but oil is cheaper than engines. better to have enough than not enough. if it's too thick it will protect but might not disappate heat and vice versa

 

[Ruturaj]

Unless it's Redline or similar with it 2.9 hths for 0w20 I can't say for certain it's enough. I still think a oil cooler and upgraded fluid for the tranny are a must

I have looked in to oil coolers, they reduce overall oil pressure (by resistance but they would also increase oil pressure by keeping oil cooler), lines can rub (one more thing to watch), add risk of warranty claim getting denied (I know laws exists but if I have to get a lawyer it's a pain). I have upgraded tranny fluid to motul 75w80, I have redline MTL and Ford motorcraft to try next.