Should I look for different oil than M1 0w40?

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I have 2023 Subaru BRZ. I have been running mobil1 FS 0w40 for summer and 0w20 in winters, since Subaru needs twice a year oil change. I do about 4k miles a year so milage is not a factor in oil changes. I track the car in summer, I hit about 250F as of now, in future I might hit more but at that point I might get oil cooler. In winters, I don't drive this car when it's below 50F. From one of the youtube videos it seems like Mobil changed the formula on 0w40 which made it less capable? Should I look at Pennzoil Ultra 0w40 or should just move up to something like Motul 300v?
 
No, it isn't less capable. The formula is different but it carries the same approvals as before except now it's now API SP instead of SN. It's most likely better than the previous version, but it doesn't look as nice on paper in some respects. It's now using an additive package closer to PP Euro. I don't see the point of doing 0W-20 in winter honestly. I'd just run the 0W-40 or a 5W-40 year round.
 
I have 2023 Subaru BRZ. I have been running mobil1 FS 0w40 for summer and 0w20 in winters, since Subaru needs twice a year oil change. I do about 4k miles a year so milage is not a factor in oil changes. I track the car in summer, I hit about 250F as of now, in future I might hit more but at that point I might get oil cooler. In winters, I don't drive this car when it's below 50F. From one of the youtube videos it seems like Mobil changed the formula on 0w40 which made it less capable? Should I look at Pennzoil Ultra 0w40 or should just move up to something like Motul 300v?
The oils you mention are all excellent. No need to alter what you are doing. You will never see a diff. between any of them.
Porsche A40 is a hard stamp of approval for a tracked car.
 
I think the route of the problem (at least with me) is that the Mobil1 0W40 FS was my emotional darling, it gave me PAO and now it has changed (again) and the PAO is gone.

I’m one of those types that wants a high starting oxidation number showing me the PAO/Ester, higher quality base stocks. And that apparently is just GONE from all the off the shelf oils right now. Now, outside of certifications and licenses, there really isn’t much of a difference or the feeling that I’m getting “more” or “better”. So, now I might just go with price and rebates again, and maybe I should have all along?? I think Pennzoil Euro may be my next oil.
 
I was also emotionally attached to the old FS 0w40 formula. Still holds great approvals but I now like Mobil 1 0w30 esp with a high virgin oxidation indicating esters. It’s mid saps but still plenty for me.

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I have been running mobil1 FS 0w40 for summer and 0w20 in winters, since Subaru needs twice a year oil change.
How does 0W-40 in summer differ from 0W-20 in winter, since both of these oils have the same winter rating?
 
How does 0W-40 in summer differ from 0W-20 in winter, since both of these oils have the same winter rating?
I think this is based on hot temp viscosity so run thinner in cold and thicker in hot temp.
 
I was also emotionally attached to the old FS 0w40 formula. Still holds great approvals but I now like Mobil 1 0w30 esp with a high virgin oxidation indicating esters. It’s mid saps but still plenty for me.

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Nice combo - This and the 5W30 (going in our Lexus next) have an amazing list of OEM approvals - I’m not overly worried how they got there since it’s coming out between 5k and 10k anyway …
(Yes, I will let good weather effect my OCI) … 🆒
 
No, it isn't less capable. The formula is different but it carries the same approvals as before except now it's now API SP instead of SN. It's most likely better than the previous version, but it doesn't look as nice on paper in some respects. It's now using an additive package closer to PP Euro. I don't see the point of doing 0W-20 in winter honestly. I'd just run the 0W-40 or a 5W-40 year round.

Use M1 0W-40 year round. Don’t chop and change between 0W-40 and 0W-20 as there is no point.

Just run the 40 all year.

Why would you run 0W-20 in the Winter?

Why have you dismissed using 0w30 A40 during winters.
Curious as-to why you won't drive the Subie under 50 degrees.

How does 0W-40 in summer differ from 0W-20 in winter, since both of these oils have the same winter rating?

I run 0w20 in winter because
1. On paper, I want to show I am using manufacturer specified oil. I keep these receipts and another receipt from other car to keep records of twice a year oil change with 0w20.
2. I am changing oil anyways and don't see the downside.
3. My winter miles are very low, less than 1000 over 6 months, mostly consisting of short 10 minutes drives.

To why I don't drive it when it's below 50F, I have extreme summer tires, plus I have another car which is AWD and on which I put on winter tires set in winter. I do take this one to ski resort and this one builds all the miles during winter.
 
I run 0w20 in winter because
1. On paper, I want to show I am using manufacturer specified oil. I keep these receipts and another receipt from other car to keep records of twice a year oil change with 0w20.
2. I am changing oil anyways and don't see the downside.
3. My winter miles are very low, less than 1000 over 6 months, mostly consisting of short 10 minutes drives.

To why I don't drive it when it's below 50F, I have extreme summer tires, plus I have another car which is AWD and on which I put on winter tires set in winter. I do take this one to ski resort and this one builds all the miles during winter.
You're overcomplicating things for no good reason. Just run the manufacturer recommended 0W-20. Some 0W-20 oils are slightly better than others, like Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol LL17 0W-20, etc. It's a high compression ratio 2.4L engine, naturally aspirated, nothing special. The manufacturer recommended 0W-20 should provide plenty of protection all year around. I see no reason to stray from that, you won't see any additional benefit in long term durability by running 0W-40.
 
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