Salvage auction purchase, 2010 Mercedes ML 350

The plot thickens. This doesn’t sound like the typical thing a thief would do.

There's no telling what bizarre things a thief on meth will do. Probably cut the wires to keep aliens from outer space from abducting him.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: CKN
My wild speculation. The vehicle was hit in the right rear quarter panel. When the repairs were done the wires were not properly protected and put safely back in place. This is the reason the SUV was traded in, yet was greatly maintained. Nobody could figure out the weird issues associated with unfirm electric connections.

The latest owner could not get the price blem fixed, and arranged to have the vehicle stolen. One can't steal this model without the keys. The tools were left in place to make the theft look proper. The crack pipes were staged.

I am now tracking down which I think most likely are a shorted wire to ground.

PXL_20230601_174332226.jpg
PXL_20230601_174801733.jpg
PXL_20230601_175905430.jpg
 
Did some looking, and found about a half dozen cut wires, not to far from the Rear SAM. I have no idea why this is, from sabotage to neglect from a inspector- very much welcome any thoughts/ comments on how these wires are cut.
By my count, I see 8 cut wires (orange, white) (yellow, black, gray, pink) (red, green) at 3 different locations of the wire bundle. Only the pink and gray wires show any signs of frayed plastic insulation while the others are cleanly sliced. These clues lead me to believe they were intentionally cut with a knife (i.e., not wire cutters or chewed by rodents). It does not seem reasonable that a meth/crack head would take time or have the knowledge to disable the MB in this manner. If I was a betting person, I'd say that someone sabotaged this vehicle to ensure it would be a total loss claim.
 
By my count, I see 8 cut wires (orange, white) (yellow, black, gray, pink) (red, green) at 3 different locations of the wire bundle. Only the pink and gray wires show any signs of frayed plastic insulation while the others are cleanly sliced. These clues lead me to believe they were intentionally cut with a knife (i.e., not wire cutters or chewed by rodents). It does not seem reasonable that a meth/crack head would take time or have the knowledge to disable the MB in this manner. If I was a betting person, I'd say that someone sabotaged this vehicle to ensure it would be a total loss claim.
So-is it possible the owner of the MB SUV saw the vehicle after it was recovered? Saw the drug stuff in it and decided he didn't want it back and cut the wires. That actually sounds plausible.
 
Last edited:
My wild speculation. The vehicle was hit in the right rear quarter panel. When the repairs were done the wires were not properly protected and put safely back in place. This is the reason the SUV was traded in, yet was greatly maintained. Nobody could figure out the weird issues associated with unfirm electric connections.

The latest owner could not get the price blem fixed, and arranged to have the vehicle stolen. One can't steal this model without the keys. The tools were left in place to make the theft look proper. The crack pipes were staged.

I am now tracking down which I think most likely are a shorted wire to ground.

View attachment 158937View attachment 158938View attachment 158939

Picture #2 in post 64; is that two burnt red wires that I see on the RH side of the photo? ( 4th and 6th red wires from the bottom and just below the cut off green wire)

I think I see them again in picture #3.

The damage is strange. it looks like the wires were pinched through and not cut, but there is damage in two locations. I wonder if somebody cut out that quarter panel with an air chisel and cut into the wiring harness in two places? FWIW I have seen wiring damage like this in a few cars that came from the factory that way. It might be good to get the service history for this car and see what kinds of complaints the original owner(s) made on it. That why I asked in post 47 if the battery/electrical inspection that you mentioned in a post 46 was part of a NORMAL inspection? Basically I was implying that it sounds to me like it was something that the Stealership did for a specific reason.
 
Last edited:
That is very odd.

My ‘00 Camry the brake lights quit working years ago. My mechanic found deep in the left quarter panel the wires were basically cut clean where you can’t really get to. They were working before. The only coincidence was that corner was smashed in an accident shortly before that but never fixed. Never understood that one. He spliced the wires back together and the lights work.
 
That’s good detective work finding all the wiring issues. You’ll get this car for a steal in the end.
 
No longer having the 7.5amp fuse to the central gateway blowing. Issue is a 12v input to the gateway from the rear SAM fusebox is shorting to ground. I cut the wire at the fusebox, and at the gateway, and ran a temporary wire and that solved the blown fuse issue.

The replacement central gateway I bought from the MB dealer yesterday is not working. I will try to see if they will exchange it tomorrow. Their policy is no returns on electronics. This double hurts as I paid the above retail for the part. The dealers in this area markup parts well above MSRP.

I did clean up all the broke wires I could find. I have one set of wires cut with no ends. I think (at least hope) these wires are for the tailgate. Pretty concerned how the central gateway positive lead is shorting to ground somewhere. it makes me fearful of a mess of wires mangled somewhere that I have yet to see.

Biggest issue of all of this, is the 4matic SUV is still on a rental trailer. I really would like to get this SUV to power up so I can get it into neutral and off the trailer.
 
Do you have AAA and will they move it for you? Someone like you needs to have a friend in the towing business that will move things around for you without trying to rob you blind in the process.
 
Do you have AAA and will they move it for you? Someone like you needs to have a friend in the towing business that will move things around for you without trying to rob you blind in the process.
I have triple a and have the monster package, that will tow a rv many miles. But I didn't think it was a match to call them to solve this issue .

Sitting outside the Mb dealer parking lot, waiting for parts to open at 0730, in hopes they will exchange the dead $300 electric part. He told me the part was not returnable, but I am wanting an exchange.
 
...I really would like to get this SUV to power up so I can get it into neutral and off the trailer.

I wondered about this scenario. The joys of gear select by wire with no neutral bypass.

My 2022 Nissan Frontier uses the Mercedes Benz 9G tronic that jatco is licensed to build. There's no magical button, lever or cord to get these in neutral either.
 
I wondered about this scenario. The joys of gear select by wire with no neutral bypass.

My 2022 Nissan Frontier uses the Mercedes Benz 9G tronic that jatco is licensed to build. There's no magical button, lever or cord to get these in neutral either.
May be the Frontier can be done the same way.
 
Last edited:
May be the Frontier can be done the same way.

Would be nice!

The 2021+ Pathfinders use a ZF 9 speed.

There's nothing external on the Frontier's MB 9g tronic other than the wiring connector unfortunately.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CKN
Located at least one issue. The 100 AMP fuse to the rear SAM was blown. The rear SAM controls almost everything in this car outside of the engine bay.

It was quite a job to get to the fuse. The battery has to be pulled which is located under the passenger front seat. To get at the battery, the passenger front seat must be all the way forward, which it was not. And nothing working, so I tried to pull the front seat, but did not have success- this is a real big design flaw, as one can't get to the battery and pre-fuse compartment if the front passenger seat is not functioning.

I checked the incoming voltage at the rear SAM, and it was zero. I placed 12v on the rear SAM, and was able to move the seat. forward. Nothing else worked, but what I needed to work did. I moved the seat forward and pulled the battery. This is the hardest battery I can recall trying to remove. I saw no signs of anyone trying to get under the passenger seat prior to me.

Measured resistance across the power distribution fuses, and the rear SAM fuse was blown which is what Mercedes call a "fuse strip". Hopefully Mercedes has these fuses in stock.

Of note, the car is super clean. No rigging of any nature, everything OEM everywhere. The CARXFAX showed this car had extensive and continual preventative maintenance at the MB dealership. One example, two transmission fluid exchanges were performed under 100k miles.

Either this car has something really wrong, and it is a insurance fraud case, or someone stole a really nice car. Hope to have better understanding tomorrow after the fuse is replaced.

I can't get a trailer to where I live, so I have to work on the car about seven miles away from home until I can drive it home. Very inefficient not having tools close by.

View attachment 158699View attachment 158700View attachment 158701View attachment 158702View attachment 158703
That battery location is a pain in the butt. Plus the fact that they take a very heavy battery. I had that model with the diesel engine. It was really comfortable and solid. The only big weakness with those MLs is weak steering racks. Word was they used a car steering rack in that heavier vehicle. Rebuilt ones are better than originals. If you can get it running, you will have a very good vehicle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GON
That would be a good thing.
Yes and no. Many times a service advisor will recommended a flush when a customer comes with a transmission concern. Having two flushes close together is a red flag.
 
Last edited:
Was the battery inspection THE LAST time that it was at the Stealership? And is that a normal inspection? It's starting to sound like someone had a car with a difficult to solve electrical problem but then the car was suddenly "stolen".

IMO most electrical problems are not difficult for anyone that understands electricity to solve. Blown fuses are usually caused by an improperly routed main wire that shorts out against a metal panel or a hot exhaust pipe. A 100+ Amp short should not be hard to find!
These vehicles have a lot of fiber optic cable in them. If the battery has a small hiccup, the car will do all kinds of goofy things and throw codes totally unrelated. I've had to learn this the hard way. That could be a reason the owner took it in. Batteries will demonstrate proper voltage and amps and still cause all these things. New AGM battery solves everything. I had a 2000 CLK that had all kinds of crazy things and codes going on. Sometimes the dealer computers won't pick things up if they are intermittent. It takes a real experienced MB mechanic to find these things. Turned out my CLK needed a new headlight switch. Behind that round headlight switch is a fusebox full of fuses. It seems MB runs a whole lot of electronics thru that switch. The ABS BAS system runs through that switch. Crazy. This is why most people trade them in. All most dealer techs know is to hook it up to the computer and do what it says.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: GON
Yes and no.Many times a service advisor will recommended a flush when a customer comes with a transmission concern. Having two flushes close together is a red flag.
It's supposed to be done every 37k miles. It's not flushed, just a pan drop and filter change. Some have converter drains and some don't.
 
Back
Top