Q: About today's Mobil 1 0W-40 line up

504 added requirements for intake valve deposits.

None of the VW approvals have an LSPI requirement so I'm not sure what he's talking about there. ZDDP reduces LSPI (if it were an actual issue) so a full SAPS 502 oil would be preferred if it were.

I think 504 actually has stricter wear tests than 511, but the flaw in his thinking is that a spec for a minimum isn't exceeded by one oil or another. If it wasn't, we'd never compare anything but approvals.
My apologies, I thought the lower calcium levels were LSPI friendly. My mistake.
 
0w40 ESP:



0w40 supercar:


Maybe at one point it "became" supercar, but the supercar formula now is not what ESP was and suggesting someone can just buy the new product to get the old one is incorrect.
It was revised and they are not showing the original PDS for the Supercar. I don’t know what to tell you this has been confirmed by both Mobil and GM and I have no idea why you’re arguing over it.
 
Nope esp 0w40 became supercar 0w40. At one time there was esp 0w40 and esp x3 0w40 before the switch. Esp 0w40 was for corvette and esp x3 for porsche
Did not realize that there were two different ESP oil at the same time, just thought they are just replacement of the older version. Thanks.
 
Are you 100% sure that they are exact same oil? But it doesn't matter anyways, eliminate guessing.

If my car required or recommended a specific approval(s), I would get a oil with that approval. Not something else that I perceive is the same or even better. If the writing is not on the jug, they can pull the rug out from under you! :ROFLMAO:

Sound like you drive a Ferrari. No? What does your owner's manual recommend?
From the looks of it, I guess not.

It is not about one car in particular, just curious as to what the progression is from one generation of Mobil 1 oil to the next.
 
504 added requirements for intake valve deposits.

None of the VW approvals have an LSPI requirement so I'm not sure what he's talking about there. ZDDP reduces LSPI (if it were an actual issue) so a full SAPS 502 oil would be preferred if it were.

I think 504 actually has stricter wear tests than 511, but the flaw in his thinking is that a spec for a minimum isn't exceeded by one oil or another. If it wasn't, we'd never compare anything but approvals.
Metal based ash deposits then, not carbon deposits.
 
I never idle my engine to warm it up no matter how cold it is outside. The one thing I have noticed with my Civic is if I turn the heat all the way down to the lowest setting it warms up noticeably quicker, the temperature gauge will hit the first bar about a mile sooner with the heat off vs the same route but with the heat on. That’s pretty significant!
I do, lol. We make liberal use of remote start, typically for about 5-10 minutes during the cold weather.
 
Right, it is not the same as the old ESP 0w40.

It's the very first thing OP asked about in this thread and the title is "today's" lineup, not years ago.
It WAS the day it was relabeled. I don’t know why this is so hard. If you could buy ESP Formula still it would be the same oil, but you can’t! Jfc
 
The test sets a limit for the amount of total weight increase on the intake valves. That would certainly include carbon.


Correct! Well, maybe. Slight assumption that the formula wouldn't have changed.
I have seen that test that weighs intake valves. There must be a difference in valve weight due to carbon intake deposits when using different oils since they are doing test like that. Seems like a waist of time and resources if it makes no difference on what oil is used.
 
I’m on my fourth Corvette (a 2018 that I custom ordered new and will never sell!) I bought my first one in 1991 right out of college (it was a 1984 model) and have also had a 98 and an 05. So I’m not the typical Vette guy who just buys one as a midlife crisis thing 🤣 I have been a fan since before I got my drivers license.
favorites?
 
I do, lol. We make liberal use of remote start, typically for about 5-10 minutes during the cold weather.

When I was a kid, every time my dad or uncles bought a new car, they would idle it for hours & hours with the hood up. They did that for several days between driving and they told me it's for "break-in" ... and non of the cars had any issues that I recall.
From what I know now, that's not an advisable method of break-in procedure.

We had a new car and day two or three took it for a very long trip with pretty much steady speed which is a no-no according to some owner's manuals.
I idled my new Tundra for a long time sometimes 30 or 40 minutes before each drive. I would sit in there reading the OM and playing with the gadgets and stuff. About 10 years later, neither car is burning a drop of oil or having any engine issues.

The point is that some of these stuff we sweat about (including oil) is on the OCD spectrum. :ROFLMAO:

Few years ago, i was watching How It's Made (Dream cars) on one of the channels and I think it was a Ferrari they took right out of the factory straight to the race track for testing.
 
From the looks of it, I guess not.

It is not about one car in particular, just curious as to what the progression is from one generation of Mobil 1 oil to the next.

Sometimes or maybe always you have to follow the money as well.
 
If a "0W" is good enough for these guys, should pretty much good enough for anyone 🤣


They also recomend engine tear downs every 90 hours....
 
There’s always M1 15-50 that’s not talked about much. But I do believe the HTHS is over 4. Redline also makes some nice fine oils with a high HTHS.
 
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