Add me to the short list that doesn’t buy everything those two post to the Tube.Yeah, they should have come here instead.
Q: About today's Mobil 1 0W-40 line up
- Thread starter Tifosi
- Start date
But you'll gladly sign up on every thick vs. thin thread that gets posted here.
Just heard it today - son's buddy with a new MK8 Golf R...calls for VW504 so 0W30 typically. Told dealer to run a 502/5W40 b/c "it's better". Folks really don't get this approvals thing or that the 0W30 is more than stout enough for that car/has the same HTHS as the 40 grade and really isn't much lower in viscosity. 502/5W40 certainly won't hurt it I know that....I really think he was scared of the 0....
Unless you're comparing something to something fairly exotic... yes, a 5w40 is going to have a higher HTHS than a 0w30. There are certainly other advantages to stucking to 504 oils, but broadly speaking, I'd agree, 502 5w40 oils are better. Just not for your warranty.
Exactly - Dave posts in the PCMO forum. "Hey guys, I have this SRT-10 truck with a broken rocker arm. If it's tuned, what oil should we use? That 0W stuff is like water. I think we should switch to Rotella but Amsoil just feels more slippery. Did you know full synthetics aren't even fully synthetic? I don't want my seals to leak, but blackstone told me it was serviceable. I want to get it from FCP Euro so I can get free oil for life. Did you know 75w-90 gear oil isn't really twice as thick as 5w-30? Oh, squirrel!"Yeah, they should have come here instead.
Almost as dumb as using a needle bearing anywhere in an engine.
What does that have to do with this discussion? I mean if you have anything technical I’ll listen. But you’re gigging me on this discussion for what exactly?
I explained the problem with what you posted the guy said. It didn’t make any sense, sorry. I try to keep personal dislike or some sort of personal frustration separate, unless you want me to drag in some sort of sidebar issue.
I’m not the only one in this thread that’s saying the same thing.
The “tuned engine” one seems to be deleted. That was Dave? I follow him on other social media.
They recommended a higher viscosity oil be used in place of the 0W-40 Mobil 1 he was using with the stock engine. That's it.
Now just what, "doesn't make any sense" to you? It couldn't be any simpler.
Now just what, "doesn't make any sense" to you? It couldn't be any simpler.
Because you said “use the Motul with the higher viscosity”. What is “the” Motul? A 50-grade?
What difference does it make? The point was they wanted him to use a higher viscosity oil with the new tuned engine they built for him, over the 0W-40 Mobil 1 he was using. They suggested Motul brand . You claim, "it makes no sense".
You also jumped to the conclusion, that the 0W-40 Mobil 1 he was using, caused the rocker arm to break. (Your post #15). That was not the case.
It makes perfect sense to me not to use ANY 0W oil (regardless of brand) in our area of the country, (desert Southwest). Especially in a high performance tuned engine like a Viper V-10.
Again you claimed that, "my area of the country" has nothing to do with it. Climate has everything to do with what viscosity you employ. I think most all of this would be more clear to you, if you simply read things over a bit more slowly, and typed a bit less.
Oh boy. I don’t even know where to start with that.
If a "0W" is good enough for these guys, should pretty much good enough for anyone 
Yes, but the min spec for both VW502 and 504 is 3.5 I believe so while the 40s may be a bit higher, having a 3.5 should be enough for about anyone IMHO. My buddy with his MK8R using the 0W30/504 without issue. I've actually thought about trying HPL Euro 30 to see if there is any notable reduction in oil temp on track...gulp...haha
Oh wow, that thread got mod cancelled.
This is a great idea. We should start a forum where Dave and LSJ are the only ones allowed to start new threads. They can come here to ask any lubrication/engine/automotive questions they may have and we can advise.
He questioned whether that was the conclusion.
0w oils have their use even in hot climates. The nicer base oils used in those tend to shear less, which is a desirable quality in a high performance tuned motor. The difference in going from a 0w40 to a 5w40 is usually 0.1-0.2 HTHS. BUT, if that initial HTHS shears down by 10% in the 5w40 vs 5% in the 0w40, you're seeing the benefits of nicer base oils. We don't have this data for many oils, but Lake Speed Jr was nice enough to demonstrate that M1 0w40 behaved very well, at least compared to the other 40/50/60 grade oils he tested.
The requirements for 504 are only stricter when it comes to fuel efficiency and valve deposits. The only 504 oils which seem exceptional are boutiques like Ravenol VMP, but if you need its higher HTHS because of tuning or ethanol, then there's no point to handicap yourself with a 30 grade 504. I am sure he's perfectly fine with it though, especially if he has a stock tune and a warranty to enjoy.
Given HPL's outstanding viscosity modifiers I am sure that oil is fine. Certainly just as good as the average Liquimoly 5w40 after some heat and fuel dilution.
Who is Dave? What post?
I'm not sure if he tuned it over the winter...he was going to but it's fast stock! I can't keep up with him in my wagon making the call that our driving skill is pretty similar/started doing this at the same time with similar tires etc. - he's got over a second on me at VIR for PBs. I rode in the son's buddy's MK8 R with a stage 1...holy cow it's really FAST! His daugher has a MK7 GTI with a typical stage 2/DP tune. Fun to run with the VW crew on track...these cars definately surprise folks.
I’d agree with that except that base oils never shear, it’s only the VM that do. Better bases require less VM which helps resist shear. But better VII can also help.
Base oils are only about C25 or so and are far too small to cleave in an engine and have a very small molecular diameter. But the million+ molecular weight VII polymers are able to be cut.
Sorry, using VII and bases interchangeably. Either way, I think the notion of a 0w oil being inappropriate for hot climates is misguided. Which one is better in the real world depends on data we generally don't have access to (though a teardown like Arizona Bill posted is definitely more interesting than a UOA--too bad the only information we know is "used M1 0w40").