Post your latest oil change

2012 Hyundai Santa Fe 4 cyl. w/100,834 miles. Oil changed after around 2500 miles. (Estimated)

Recently had an oil change done on my Santa Fe by Western Oklahoma Tire Service here in Clinton. Used whatever bulk 5W-20 they had (never found out brand) and a MicroGard oil filter. Don't know what it replaced. Car dealer had changed it before I got it.

Proceeded to go on a 2000 mile trip to Kingman, AZ and back. Smoothest drive I've had in a long while. Engine must be clean on the inside, because the oil was still nice and light brown after the trip. Might continue using them for regular oil changes. Cost me $42.00.
 
2013 Volvo S80 3.2l

3rd oil change on this vehicle since we purchased it. I'm now getting used to the quirks. Remove passenger headlight so I can move the power steering reservoir into the headlight area to gain access the oil filter (cartridge type, mounted from the top). Slow drain that takes over an hour to get everything out. I start the drain process, then remove the headlight, move the power steering reservoir and remove the filter. Go in the house and have lunch. Come out and the oil is still drizzling out. I replace the oil filter, tighten it down, put the power steering reservoir back on its bracket, reinstall the headlight, then the oil is just about done dripping. Torque down the oil drain plug, add 7.5qts of Castrol Euro 5W40 API SP, reinstall the skid plate, and 2 hours later the oil change is done. LOL.

Oil drained was Castrol Euro 5W40 API SP. Sample taken, will be sent off to Oil Analyzers with 6654 miles on it. Replaced with the same oil along with a MANN HU9254Y (apparently identical to the Volvo branded filter, but a lot less money). I did an inspection while under there and everything looks great. No leaks, bushings look healthy and well lubricated. Good to go for another 6 months. I will post UOA in about a week in the UOA section. Cheers!
 
2005 Porsche Boxster 2.7 @ 81,200 miles (OCI = 1 year / 5-6k miles).

Out: M1 0w-40
In: Castrol 5W-40 with LiquiMoly MoS2 (a feeble attempt to prevent the infamous bore scoring issue) w Hengst E14HD77
Drain Plug: Votex magnetic drain plug

No drama with very minor, typical metal dust particles on the magnetic plug. The filter is clean.

9 Plug and Filter.jpg
 
So when you change oil next time and you have a Toyoatearolator when did it happen at 500 miles or one day before you next OIC? The fact is that Toyota oil filter are no 99 + % at 20 microns if that is even important to you.
+1 ... reusing an inefficient oil filter over multiple OCIs isn't the best idea. If people leave a filter on for multiple OCIs, use one that's high efficiency and rated for a mileage over the total amount of miles planned to be put on the filter. Inefficient filters are that way mainly because they loose efficiency the more they load up.
 
2019 Lexus GX460

@51k+ miles, 4/2024
Out: Castrol GTX 5w30 (5qts)/Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 (3 qts) and OEM Toyota/Lexus filter

In: Supertech Advanced (20k) 5w30 (5qts) and Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 (3qts)

In - Fram Ultra Synthetic Cartridge Filter

@46k+ miles, 2/2024
Out: Castrol Edge 5w20 (5qts) and Castrol Edge 5w40 (3qts)

In: Castrol Gtx 5w30 (5qts) and Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 (3 qts)
 
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+1 ... reusing an inefficient oil filter over multiple OCIs isn't the best idea. If people leave a filter on for multiple OCIs, use one that's high efficiency and rated for a mileage over the total amount of miles planned to be put on the filter. Inefficient filters are that way mainly because they loose efficiency the more they load up.
As filters load up they generally begin to filter smaller particles and the pressure loss across them increases. Toyota filters are rated for 10,000 mi OCIs since that is the recommended oil change interval.
 
As filters load up they generally begin to filter smaller particles and the pressure loss across them increases.
ISO efficiency test data shows otherwise (see the Ascent testing thread post HERE). As an oil filter loads up and the dP increases, the already captured particles can slough off and go down stream, which makes the filter less efficient. Air filters get more efficient with loading, but oil filters don't because the dP across an oil filter is magnitudes more than across an air filter.
 
ISO efficiency test data shows otherwise (see the Ascent testing thread post HERE). As an oil filter loads up and the dP increases, the already captured particles can slough off and go down stream, which makes the filter less efficient. Air filters get more efficient with loading, but oil filters don't because the dP across an oil filter is magnitudes more than across an air filter.
I didn't know this. Let me research the thread you sent. Thanks for posting.
 
2023 Honda Civic Touring Sedan 1.5t 9300 miles, 3235 on oil
Out: Mobil1 0w20 EP, Honda 15400-PLM-A02 filter
In: Mobil1 0W-20 EP, Honda 15400-PLM-A02 filter
Waiting on UOA, possibly Mobil1 5W-30 EP next time
Tired of playing filter roulette, staying with the Honda, seems to work fine.
Get the UOA? I'm thinking to move to 5w-30 EP in the same car
 
Get the UOA? I'm thinking to move to 5w-30 EP in the same car
Still waiting for results (Blackstone is very slow lately) Last UOA with 3,228 miles on the oil showed SUS@210F at 50.4 (46-57 acceptable range) and cSt@100C was 7.39 (6.0-9.7 acceptable range) with dilution at 3.5%. Blackstone isn't very accurate on OD, but the oil was definitely in the acceptable viscosity range. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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