New Firearms CLP or Lube You Want To Try ?

What makes gun oil better than engine oil? Guns don't have near the load that an engine has.

A good firearms oil will be make with completely different type of corrosion inhibitors than you will find in a motor oil. Corrosion inhibitors that excel in salt fog performance will treat weapons well. In terms of wear the Mil-spec has a fairly loose 4 ball number. Oils that are clean and are free of additives that end up gummy over time are going to be best. It is amazing how many improperly formulated firearms lubricants out there.

David
 
The firearms lubricant market is full of hype, ludicrous claims, and snake oil. Stick with a good brand, avoid the “new” and “hot” products. I’ve got AMSOIL, G96, and Wilson Combat on my shelf. For storage and/or wipe down, I’ve got Corrosion-X which is a great product.

I would buy HPL in a heartbeat but here’s the issue; properly used, a few ounces of gun oil lasts me forever, even shooting a couple time a month.

That’s why I don’t use motor oil - real Gun oil costs very little when you consider how much you use. A drop here and there costs, what, a penny or two to lube a gun, even if the stuff costs $8 for a few ounces?

Where is the “savings” then for using a less than optimum product on your gun? I spend hundreds-or thousands- on the gun. Hundreds in ammo each time I shoot.

But saving 2 cents now and then by using motor oil, at the risk of having it gum up or fail to protect from corrosion, is somehow a sound financial decision?

Ridiculous.

I shoot a lot. A big hobby of mine. Gun oil as an expense in the context of guns, optics, and ammo, is so minuscule that I laugh at “saving” a few pennies on each maintenance/clean/wipe-down.

Just use the good stuff, a product designed for guns by people, like HPL, that formulate oil for a living. Skip the “frog-lube” hype and save your leftover motor oil for generic oil use. I put mine in an old-fashioned oil can for general use.
 
My current CLP Inventory :
Ballistol , Rem Oil , Hornady One Shot , Break Free CLP , Lucas Oil Extreme , SLIP 2000 EWL , Berchwood Casey Synthetic Gun Oil , Weapon Shield , FP-10 Oil , Super Lube Synthetic Oil , Gun Butter , Pro Shot , M-Pro 7 and Frog Lube ... Most were acquired as samples and a few I actually bought . G96 is probably the only "new to me" gun oil I am still curious to try .
 
No scientific data but ive come to the conclusion that engine oil is better for the sole fact that it does not dry out in a couple days. I apply a thin film and it will stay there for at least a couple weeks or a month or two.
 
So, what oil were you using that dries out in a couple of days?

The gun oils that I use, the good ones, not the hyped junk, don’t dry out even after years in the safe.

So, a good gun oil will last years. No advantage to motor oil.
 
I use engine oil , ATF or because those fluids operate in a higher load condition that a pistol or rifle. You can hold the slide closes on my XD40 my 45ACP 1911 and 9mm Glocks by grasping the pistol. There is not a whole lot of pressures on the operating parts. . The main reason I use the automotive fluids is out of convenience. With in are reach I have 3 oil cans with ATF, Engine oil and Gear oil. I doubt and hand gun or rifle has the same loading as an automotive differential ,Hypoid gears or not. Gear oil on the slide of a brand new 1911 works well.
 
Currently working through the pint of Hoppes I bought decades ago, brake cleaner, and a little bottle of Singer sewing machine oil I stole from the wife.
 
The firearms lubricant market is full of hype, ludicrous claims, and snake oil. Stick with a good brand, avoid the “new” and “hot” products. I’ve got AMSOIL, G96, and Wilson Combat on my shelf. For storage and/or wipe down, I’ve got Corrosion-X which is a great product.

I also have used Corrosion-X for years as my primary clp product. I figure that just about any oil would be good enough for lubricating non-machine gun firearms, so I'd go with something that excels at rust prevention. At the end of the day, just about any oil is sufficient for firearm applications.
 
I also have used Corrosion-X for years as my primary clp product. I figure that just about any oil would be good enough for lubricating non-machine gun firearms, so I'd go with something that excels at rust prevention. At the end of the day, just about any oil is sufficient for firearm applications.
Corrosion - X is better than motor oil on a fire arm for rust protection . That said , M1 V-Twin 20W50 (50%) + ATF (50%) used just on the slide grooves is very slippery !
 
Wait............I know ATF and gear oil will work, but where do you guys store your firearms?

No way in the house, even in a closed safe. Open the safe and office will stink to high heaven.

The stink is just not acceptable. Gear oil on a nice 1911? No one will come near!
 
ChrisD46,
I enjoyed your rust experiment using an old rotor.
I found the poor results with silicone to be particularly enlightening (or reaffirming).

Its great for treating wood but I prefer a light gun oil on the steel.

As for these CLP products, I don’t understand why anyone uses them outside of a military environment. They are a shortcut.

Perhaps someone can explain to this old fashioned guy why a solvent strong enough to remove copper, lead and powder fouling from a quality firearm can also be approved to remain on the steel for storage. Isn’t that essentially what products like CLP are designed for?

Thanks
CLP isn't strong enough to remove copper buildup. There's different products for that.
 
Wait............I know ATF and gear oil will work, but where do you guys store your firearms?

No way in the house, even in a closed safe. Open the safe and office will stink to high heaven.

The stink is just not acceptable. Gear oil on a nice 1911? No one will come near!

I use M1 ATF and AMSOIL red synthetic grease (on the bolt bits/sliding stuff) and my safe is in my bedroom. Used sparingly, you can't smell it at all.
 
Currently use a 10+ year old bottle of Hoppes Elite Performance gun oil and Chevron 10W-30 conventional.
Still use both but i prefer the engine oil. Hoppes seems "drier" after being stored a couple days.
 
I just finished cleaning my pistol and am trying Lucas Extreme gun oil. First impressions are it's thick, slick and tenacious. Isn't running out yet. Need to go shooting to see how it performs and how well it cleans off afterwards. I've also got some Red Line assembly grease ordered to maybe try on the slide if the Lucas seems to start running.

The Lucas has a very pungent, sweet, minty odor. Just an fyi to those considering it who may be sensitive to strong smells.
 
Motor oils may lube just fine - but offer little in the way of rust prevention .
 
Went shooting yesterday, and I figure I went through close to 300 rounds. The Lucas stayed put and stayed clean without need for topping up. Haven't cleaned the pistol yet, but I'm thinking I'll stick with the Lucas oil.
 
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I use engine oil , ATF or because those fluids operate in a higher load condition that a pistol or rifle. You can hold the slide closes on my XD40 my 45ACP 1911 and 9mm Glocks by grasping the pistol. There is not a whole lot of pressures on the operating parts. . The main reason I use the automotive fluids is out of convenience. With in are reach I have 3 oil cans with ATF, Engine oil and Gear oil. I doubt and hand gun or rifle has the same loading as an automotive differential ,Hypoid gears or not. Gear oil on the slide of a brand new 1911 works well.
Yeah...you're ignoring the barrel hood and lug, the link pin...plenty of loading going on. In fact, try running regular engine oil in a flat tappet cam application if its so good...oof!

People, including the military, have spent a ton of resources refining a product for use in firearms. Use it...or not. but its not the same juice that goes in your 2020 Buick.
 
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