New CLP or Lube You Are Considering ?

I’ve been into guns for decades and have at least 20 gun oils in my collection. Mostly I bought them to try the next best thing.

Most of them are sidelined.

Breakfree CLP on all .22LR guns because it has a solvent that breaks down the carbon and keeps the guns running longer.

Breakfree LP on most semi autos.

TW25 grease on carry guns, P226 and 1911, Garands and Mini 14’s

Slip 2000 EWL30 on AR15 rifles.

That’s my lube plan.
 
For the past year or so I have been using a mix of Mobil1 10w30 and Synthetic grease. I mix it just thick enough that it doesn't run off.
It's almost a gel. It's been great so far. It has very good lubricating properties, and cleaning my guns after a range trip has been a breeze.
There is a YouRube video called Sirache Lube (or something similar) of a guy who mixed M1 motor oil with Mobil Synthetic Grease until like a honey like consistency for firearms.
 
For lube I'm currently using HPL, Gun Butter and Lucas Extreme. They all work the same with no real difference. For grease, Slide Glide, Gun Butter or Lucas.
 
Skip the Frog Lube. The retired SEALs I know (one of whom builds guns, and is an FFL for a living) say to stay away from it. That’s all the endorsement I need.
The knock on Frog Lube and why it’s popularity plummeted is the same reason as most plant based lubes : They become gummy / tacky / sticky with age after application while in storage .
 
Slip 2000 products are excellent! EWL, EWL 30, Grease and Carbon Killer are my favorites. Once you use them for a few range trip it sticks to the metal and all the crud just wipes right off with a rag. No more harsh chemicals needed to clean.
 
I have been meaning to try the Amsoil CP and LP. I also want to try the HPL CLP and lubricant. But in both cases, it isn't worth the shipping to buy the gun cleaners by themselves, so I've been meaning to buy the gun cleaners when ordering automotive lubricants.

I recently bought CVT fluid from HPL, but forgot to order the firearm cleaner at the same time. So for now, I'll keep using Hoppes #9 cleaner and Breakthrough Battle Born lubricant.
 
I have been using CLP for cleaning but use Remmington gun oil for lubrication. Seems to work out fine.
What ever CLP you use is probably better and longer lasting than REM Oil which is thin and evaporates quickly . For a low cost investment - buy Lucas Extreme Firearms Oil in place of using REM Oil . The only place I use REM Oil any more is to spray a new semi - auto recoil spring assembly with it (gunsmith trick) to slicken it up for the first few hundred rounds ensuring better reliability. Rails , barrels , connectors , etc. all get a thicker oil than REM Oil.
 
What ever CLP you use is probably better and longer lasting than REM Oil which is thin and evaporates quickly . For a low cost investment - buy Lucas Extreme Firearms Oil in place of using REM Oil . The only place I use REM Oil any more is to spray a new semi - auto recoil spring assembly with it (gunsmith trick) to slicken it up for the first few hundred rounds ensuring better reliability. Rails , barrels , connectors , etc. all get a thicker oil than REM Oil.
Thanks. I'll get some of the Lucas Extreme.

I have some of this also, haven't even opened it yet. You ever tried this? Hoppes #9 Lubricating oil

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013R67A6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
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I can confirm that Remoil is the worst gun lube on the market. I love the stuff as a light duty cleaner though. But then I wipe it all off and use a real lubricant. And yes it’s fantastic to spray on a dual spring recoil assembly for some light lubricant.
 
The old standby . . . still works for the last 60 years


LSA Oil 4oz 09.webp
 
Well looky what I found. Knew I had some left.
IMG_0144.webp

Formulated and made by our very own @MolaKule. Best dang stuff for full rail and slide frame guns with dissimilar metals like older Sigs. Also could clean like the dickens when other stuff had problems. Really wish I had more *wink *wink.
 
Well looky what I found. Knew I had some left.
View attachment 255746
Formulated and made by our very own @MolaKule. Best dang stuff for full rail and slide frame guns with dissimilar metals like older Sigs. Also could clean like the dickens when other stuff had problems. Really wish I had more *wink *wink.
Wow! That was our PPS. Here was the PDS for it:

"Purple Problem Solver

Synthetic Gun Cleaner and Lubricant.​

This product is composed of all synthetic fluids, surfactants, Anti-Wear agents, and Extreme-Pressure components. It has no mineral oil products or derivatives to “gum-up” moving parts and will not turn “rancid.” Cleaners loosen powder residue and dirt. The product leaves behind an invisible surface coating of Anti-Wear and lubricating agents. Rust preventatives ensure that rust is removed and prevented. The “spreading” component insures that the cleaners and Anti-wear agents travel to the gun’s operating mechanisms, and the barrel’s lands and grooves. So use sparingly!

Caution: Make certain gun chamber is empty before cleaning! Release magazines, empty ammo tubes, and remove cartridges from cylinders. Failure to heed these cautions may result in death or injury.

Before Using: Remove Red protective cap. Cut spout with scissors about 1/8” from top. Replace cap after using.

To Clean Bore:
  1. For powder-fouled gun barrels and revolver cylinders, place a few drops on edges of cloth patch and run through bore or cylinder a few times and wait 5 minutes. Finish with another wet patch until clean. Run one DRY patch through bore from breech (chamber end) to muzzle end, then back to breech only once!​
  2. For metal-fouled bores, place a few drops on edges of cloth patch and run through bore a few times and wait 15 minutes. Then place about three to five drops on bore brush and run through bore. Wait 5 more minutes. Finish with another wet patch and run one DRY patch through bore from breech (chamber end) to muzzle end, then back to breech only once!​
To Lubricate and to Protect Metal Finishes:
  1. Place one drop on base of hammer, sear, trigger, safety, firing pin, etc. Place one drop on each side of slide and rails and work slide if an automatic or semi-automatic. If a revolver, place a drop on cylinder mechanisms. Wipe any excess lubricant/cleaner from mechanisms.​
  2. For metal finishes, place a drop of lubricant/cleaner every three inches along barrel and any outside exposed metal. Let spread for three minutes or so and then wipe excess with clean white patch.​
  3. Try it on Hunting and Pocket Knives, too! Prevents rusting and acid attack by foreign chemicals.​
Not to be taken internally! Keep out of reach of children. As with any lubricant/cleaner, wash hands with soap and water after use.

Developed by Specialty Formulations of El Dorado, KS."
 
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