New Amsoil Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil
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An important difference is the lower viscosity of the M1. For those who are afraid of thin oils, this is a plus for Amsoil, for an MPG nut like me, I think the lower viscosity would be a plus. The TBN, pour point and other specs on the Amsoil look good and a VOA would be interesting. When I dump my current fill of M1 0w20 on my 2004 Prius (I am at 9000 miles so far and hope to reach a 20k oci) I may give this a try, the comparison should be interesting.
Dennis
Great point, one I've been thinking about for my next change. The new Havoline DS is 8.0 cSt. My car prefers thinner oils or I should say seems to run better with lower viscosity oils.
The Amsoil and RL are practically 30wt oils with the RL having a much higher HT/HS which seems to lower Hp and mpg in some cars.
The M1 0w-20/Havoline DS "might" be better choices for maximum mpg although the Amsoil HT/HS of 2.8 is probably a better figure to use to determine mpg. In that case, the differences will be very hard to notice.
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Maybe - I'm not saying it would be the right thing to do, or maybe with just a slight formula tweak it could be a 5W - but that really wasn't my point. My point was basically - If a 0W-XX oil scares you, just think of it as a 5W or learn how close they are.....just so you can sleep at night!
Amsoil 15W-40 really is a 10W......but I digress.
What exactly is the difference? And what advantage/disadvantages are there vs. a 5w20?
Meets all warranty requirements for up to 25,000 normal/15,000 miles severe/1 year whichever occurs first. Change out a standard filter when your owner manual recommends, or change out a high capacity filter when that manufacturer recommends.
Would 0W-20 work in my '95 Integra LS (Auto)? Would I need 0W-30? Or should I just stick with the ASL 5W-30?
3rdI - I would stick with ASL in your Integra
sawallace - the difference is the low temperature viscosity measurement. A 0W has it's cold temp vis measured at -35°C and and a 5W is at -30°C. Best just to read the table for specifications - this will help make some sense: J300
This is why I thought thirdeYe had a manual tranny..........
sawallace - the difference is the low temperature viscosity measurement. A 0W has it's cold temp vis measured at -35°C and and a 5W is at -30°C. Best just to read the table for specifications - this will help make some sense: J300
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That is cool. Go AMSOIL. Getting to be and AMSOIL fan. Just bought 5 Quarts of 5W-30 for my ride. Sure I could use this stuff though as 05 Neon uses it without any changes.
What do you all think of running this in a Toyotal Echo?
I have a friend that I'm thinking of having run this.
He is running the ASL right now.
I have a friend that I'm thinking of having run this.
He is running the ASL right now.
No it does not call for a 20 wt. I was just thinking of the idea because he places a premium on MPG.
I don’t think it would be a good idea to recommend a 20wt.
Just thought with the little 1.5 liter or whatever size motor that it would be a nice oil to try.
If something happened he might become an ex friend......
I don’t think it would be a good idea to recommend a 20wt.
Just thought with the little 1.5 liter or whatever size motor that it would be a nice oil to try.
If something happened he might become an ex friend......
I have an echo and have used RL 5W-20 with great results; I don't have the expertise to know whether this oil would do well in the car; I wouldn't try it without consulting Terry.
Comparative CCS viscosities @ -35C/-31F:
Amsoil 0w-20, 4069 Cp
Amsoil 0w-30, 5520 Cp
Amsoil 0w-40, 6139 Cp
The 0w-20 is going have superior pumpability throughout the temp range, as it has little or no VI modifiers (polymeric Thickeners). These additives thicken the oil at ALL temps,although they do provide more of a thickening effect in the +40C to +100C range.
I would expect this oil to stay in grade for perhaps 12k-15k miles, based on my experience with other Amsoil formulations. I'm quite certain that if you were to run it for 20k-25k that it would thicken to an SAE 5w-30 or even perhaps an SAE 10w-30. However that represents no issue for any modern engine that I'm aware of.
It is tempting to me to use this oil for motors that do well on GF-4 based, 5w-30 petroleum oils - most of whom shear down to an SAE 20wt anyway in a few thousand miles....
The Noack volatility this 0w-20 is much better than Amsoils 5w-20, XL, which indicates they are using their top of the line PAO/Ester basestock blend in this one.
Amsoil 0w-20, 4069 Cp
Amsoil 0w-30, 5520 Cp
Amsoil 0w-40, 6139 Cp
The 0w-20 is going have superior pumpability throughout the temp range, as it has little or no VI modifiers (polymeric Thickeners). These additives thicken the oil at ALL temps,although they do provide more of a thickening effect in the +40C to +100C range.
I would expect this oil to stay in grade for perhaps 12k-15k miles, based on my experience with other Amsoil formulations. I'm quite certain that if you were to run it for 20k-25k that it would thicken to an SAE 5w-30 or even perhaps an SAE 10w-30. However that represents no issue for any modern engine that I'm aware of.
It is tempting to me to use this oil for motors that do well on GF-4 based, 5w-30 petroleum oils - most of whom shear down to an SAE 20wt anyway in a few thousand miles....
The Noack volatility this 0w-20 is much better than Amsoils 5w-20, XL, which indicates they are using their top of the line PAO/Ester basestock blend in this one.
TD: Aren't the newer Amsoil formulations (TSO, ASL, and presumably this brand new one) supposed to be designed to resist the thickening that seemed so predictable until recently? Just curious as to whether we might still expect some thickening, despite the updates, and if some info either way is already emerging.
As to the second bit, the pour point is also consistent with a top quality base blend. Minus 65*F! Great numbers, for sure, but of course, ahem, not much use to me down here in FL. . .
ekpolk,
The problem with the older formulations was that they would thicken quite quickly. The newer formulations appear to hold their viscosity well, even after 10,000+ miles.
Oils will eventually thicken when the intervals are extended far enough. And I think that is what TeeDub was getting at, by the time the oil gets 20,000+ miles it most likely will oxidize to a 30 weight.
The problem with the older formulations was that they would thicken quite quickly. The newer formulations appear to hold their viscosity well, even after 10,000+ miles.
Oils will eventually thicken when the intervals are extended far enough. And I think that is what TeeDub was getting at, by the time the oil gets 20,000+ miles it most likely will oxidize to a 30 weight.
I'm going to get a case of the 0w-20 soon and might get a UOA on it.
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