But then you are screwed if your receipts/records have larger enough gaps to show you didn't change it in the required time. So one or the other with both having the potential to impact a warranty claim.
Looking for first person story: My warranty denied because of oil used
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This thread is starting to sound like "Should I mod my car and will it impact my warranty?" threads that always include the classic "Tow it home bro and remove all the mods before you take it in."
Over in the Car Care Nut Youtube channel, AMD specifically says in a video that techs will send a oil sample out for a UOA, as part of the warranty claim supporting data package.
The sludge problem was in certain years (1997-2000, I think), where they increased the operating temperature to improve efficiency compared to the previous years motors of the same engine code 5S-FE (1992 to 1996) and 1MZ-FE (1994-1996),
wow. are you afraid to hurt GM, Ford, Honda or Toyota’s bottom line? They offer a warranty which is setup to rarely fail them and even when it does they look for any little thing to weasel out of paying for their mistake (usually build quality or design).
nothing immoral. its a cat and mouse game. Up to you to be creative enough to avoid the hassle of them trying to weasel out. call a private tow truck and deal with things yourself.. Think McFly. The chances of having a catastrophic failure like you’re mentioning on a well oiled (with any grade within reason for climate and conditions) that isn’t a known pattern failure for the engine, within warranty period is very slim. If the pattern failure happens to you with an oil of slightly different grade or certification, it will have more than likely happened on the “prescribed” follow the rules oil sooner or later anyways.
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And what were the results?
Are manufacturers now recommending lighter oils for their decreased heat and increased flow properties or for CAFE?
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You believe you blew a radiator house from running a 10w40 oil? And the increased viscosity made more heat?
What does it matter? They work and motors don't blow up.
Just like most wear studies, and some info shared here ... the lower the HTHS, the more potential for increased wear.
No, manufacturers are recommending thinner oils to get better fuel mileage to meet the every increasing CAFE requirements. It's a balancing game for the engine designers to get as much fuel mileage as possible without causing too much increase in wear. Of course, as oils have become thinner and thinner, there's been more focus on the AF/AW additives to help take up the slack of the decreased HTHS when the MOFT falls on its face and more metal-to-metal rubbing between parts starts to happen. Read that Machinery Lubrication article I linked earlier in this thread.
...it's fine tuned to survive guarantee period, not more.
Yet, they'll sell you an extended warranty for a lot, lot less than the price of a replacement engine.
Someone would have to be a complete and total idiot to not be able to figure this out.
There is no moral question here because thicker oil will never be the cause of an engine failure. Besides the fact that in 30 years of vehicle ownership I have never been left on the side of the road, I am SUPREMELY confident if my vehicle was towed to the dealership and oil came into question that when I walk in with my beautiful documented service records with receipts for 0W20 no one is questioning the grade of the oil if I really put 5W30 in the sump.
How would they know it's brand new? I have 2500 miles on 0W20 Castrol Edge EP in the Tundra and when I checked the oil yesterday it was still the same color as the day I put it in.
Y'all worry about absolute nonsense and I'm willing to put my money where my mouth is - I can afford a new engine if I'm wrong.
I'm not worried about anything... At all, which is why I just use the recommended oil. If there is a problem, they can deal with it.
Seems to me the guys reinventing the wheel are the ones that are worrying.
You seem to be very naïve in the fact that any car manufacturer has a room full of lawyers that will laugh at your records-IF THEY CHOOSE to give you a hard time.
It's a good thing you have money for a new motor....just in case.
Let me know if your requirements exceed those of mine towing a 5,000 pound travel trailer all over the Rockies. I run what the manual says....0W/20.
Just ridiculous unless you don't change your oil and it's tarnish and sludge inside or you don't have any records at all to show. Otherwise, in 30 years no one has ever even remotely questioned me about anything with respect to my maintenance records and no one ever will. Certainly not because there's 5W30 in the sump and not 0W20. Utter nonsense!
I think it's utter non-sense to second guess the engineers who spec'ed the oil But that's just me.
You know if I look around the automotive world and I think about the complete and total crap some of those engineers have designed, tested, and put their seal of approval on, well I have less confidence that all of their decisions always have my best interest and the longevity of my vehicle as their primary focus. What I do KNOW is a thicker oil isn't going to hurt anything. But that's just me.
Always a popular subject in a forum that is based on nothingness.
10 pages of comments and no one has been denied a warranty because he used 5/30 oil instead of 0/20
The OP has his answer.
10 pages of comments and no one has been denied a warranty because he used 5/30 oil instead of 0/20
The OP has his answer.
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