Service dept uses unapproved oil. Looking for advice (M-Benz GLC 300)

Joined
Oct 4, 2023
Messages
38
Location
NC
Hello, BITOG experts,

This is my first post and I'd like to start by expressing my admiration for the depth of knowledge and expertise demonstrated by the community here when it comes to all things related to motor oils. It's truly impressive, and I haven't found a better source of advice on the web than right here at BITOG. With that said, I hope to benefit from your invaluable insights.

Earlier this year, I acquired a Mercedes-Benz GLC 300 with the M274 Engine (turbo 4 cyl) at approximately 55,000 miles on the odometer. According to the online service records, the vehicle has received regular oil changes at the Mercedes Benz dealership every 10,000 miles and has been maintained according to manufacturer's recommendations. One owner used as a personal vehicle.

I'm currently covered by an extended warranty provided by the nationwide used car retailer from whom I purchased the vehicle. My first oil change under this warranty took place at around 65,000 miles at their service department. They are responsible for the warranty, so I thought any issues that may arise would be their responsibility.

Recently, I discovered BITOG and became engrossed in the topic of motor oil. I'm continuously learning and expanding my knowledge in this area. It was during this process that I realized the service department where I bought the vehicle used an unapproved oil type for the car, specifically "Fram Oil" with a viscosity of 0W-30. There's speculation that this oil may be "Amelie Elixir" Given that the used car retailer performs oil changes at the time of sale, I've been running on this oil for nearly 15,000 miles now. I drive around 1200 miles a month.

I would greatly appreciate your recommendations on how to address this situation. I am looking for:

1. Minimizing the risk of LSPI.
2. Keeping the engine in good condition for as many years and miles as possible even after the warranty period. My extended warranty expires at 125,000 miles. M274 has a lot of history with piston getting cracked, which I realized after the purchase unfortunately.

Here are my specific questions:

1. Is "Fram Oil" at 0W-30 safe for this vehicle, despite it being unapproved? If it is safe, should I continue using it for future oil changes? They charge around $75 for the oil and filter change (Mann brand).

2. If this oil is not recommended for my vehicle, what would be your top choice for an alternative oil that has low calcium content and offers excellent long-term wear protection? Fuel efficiency is not a concern for me. Is Mobil 1 FS the right oil or is there a better one for me? I would probably go DIY and get one of those manual fluid extractors to do the job. I want to start 5,000 miles intervals.

3. What is the viscosity you would recommend? (Located in West NC)

As a side note, I've recently noticed a ticking noise during the first 15-20 minutes of my morning drive, which then gradually diminishes. I'm not certain if this noise has always been present or if I've only started noticing it recently. I tried using a can of Liqui Moly lifter additive, and after around 140 miles over two days, the noise has significantly reduced. It has been helpful thus far, and I'm eager to observe its long-term effects in the coming weeks.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post, and I'm grateful for all the insightful discussions taking place within this community.
 
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Fram is Amalie

It will be fine for this run of 10k

Go with the Euro 0w40 or 5w40 next time

I have a CLA 250 4MATIC that has been running on STP ( Amalie) Euro 5w40 for about 30k now

The Mercedes purists on here will chime in on owning Mercedes and thier preferred use .....wait for it Mobil1 Euro 0w40

Good luck on the decision
 
My question is this to better understand you. The previous owner religiously changed the oil at 10k and your over the drain interval by 5k? Is that what I am understanding? Second what grade of oil is recommended for your car? Is it 0w30. A lot of cars made in Europe use 0W30.
 
Fram is Amalie

It will be fine for this run of 10k

Go with the Euro 0w40 or 5w40 next time

I have a CLA 250 4MATIC that has been running on STP ( Amalie) Euro 5w40 for about 30k now

The Mercedes purists on here will chime in on owning Mercedes and thier preferred use .....wait for it Mobil1 Euro 0w40

Good luck on the decision
I’ll look into this oil. I suppose this is different than FS. Thank you for your suggestion.
 
15,000 miles on an oil not designed for 15,000 miles isn't good.

That 0W-30 has zero Euro approvals, so is not designed for those sorts of drain intervals, it's like a welfare version of M1 AFE 0W-30.

According to the Mobil oil selector, FS 0W-40 is the correct oil for your application, so that's what I'd use, without any additives.
 
My question is this to better understand you. The previous owner religiously changed the oil at 10k and your over the drain interval by 5k? Is that what I am understanding? Second what grade of oil is recommended for your car? Is it 0w30. A lot of cars made in Europe use 0W30.
Sure, I was just thinking of getting into 5k intervals, considering I will go DIY with less cost. Only intention is to hope for a longer engine life.

The recommended oil approvals are 229.5 and 229.6. Honestly this list has all kinds of viscosity levels and I am confused with which to pick…


 
15,000 miles on an oil not designed for 15,000 miles isn't good.

That 0W-30 has zero Euro approvals, so is not designed for those sorts of drain intervals, it's like a welfare version of M1 AFE 0W-30.

According to the Mobil oil selector, FS 0W-40 is the correct oil for your application, so that's what I'd use, without any additives.
 
Fram is Amalie

It will be fine for this run of 10k

Go with the Euro 0w40 or 5w40 next time

I have a CLA 250 4MATIC that has been running on STP ( Amalie) Euro 5w40 for about 30k now

The Mercedes purists on here will chime in on owning Mercedes and thier preferred use .....wait for it Mobil1 Euro 0w40

Good luck on the decision
This oil also has much lower levels of AW additives like phosphorous than the appropriate Euro oil. I wouldn't say it's "fine", it's less than ideal, that's for sure.
 
15,000 miles on an oil not designed for 15,000 miles isn't good.

That 0W-30 has zero Euro approvals, so is not designed for those sorts of drain intervals, it's like a welfare version of M1 AFE 0W-30.

According to the Mobil oil selector, FS 0W-40 is the correct oil for your application, so that's what I'd use, without any additives.
Apologies for the misunderstanding, I did change the oil on the first 10k miles after purchasing the vehicle. It has been 5k additional miles after the oil change now. What I meant was that I have been running on this branded oil for total of 15k miles.

Thanks for your suggestion on the FS 0w-40, I was also looking into that. Any benefits or disadvantages using 5w-40 of the same Mobil FS?
 
Apologies for the misunderstanding, I did change the oil on the first 10k miles after purchasing the vehicle. It has been 5k additional miles after the oil change now. What I meant was that I have been running on this branded oil for total of 15k miles.

Thanks for your suggestion on the FS 0w-40, I was also looking into that. Any benefits or disadvantages using 5w-40 of the same Mobil FS?
Even 10,000 miles on an oil not designed for that application is a wildcard, and that's before we consider the wrong additive levels and the fact it passed a grand total of zero Euro performance tests.

I'd get that out of there ASAP.

M1 FS 0W-40 is their "flagship" Euro PCMO. It has a more significant pedigree than the 5W-40 including an extensive history of race use, such as 24hr events at LeMans and Sebring. Given the choice between the two, I'd go for the 0W-40 every time.

That's not to say that the 5W-40 is a bad product, but with the history behind the 0W-40, if it's the same price, it should be a no-brainer.
 
Even 10,000 miles on an oil not designed for that application is a wildcard, and that's before we consider the wrong additive levels and the fact it passed a grand total of zero Euro performance tests.

I'd get that out of there ASAP.

M1 FS 0W-40 is their "flagship" Euro PCMO. It has a more significant pedigree than the 5W-40 including an extensive history of race use, such as 24hr events at LeMans and Sebring. Given the choice between the two, I'd go for the 0W-40 every time.

That's not to say that the 5W-40 is a bad product, but with the history behind the 0W-40, if it's the same price, it should be a no-brainer.
Well noted, thank you very much taking the time to reply. I will start doing oil changes myself at 5k intervals with the FS 0w-40 then.
 
You don't need to do super short intervals with the 0W-40, it's a very capable oil. But, if that's what you feel comfortable with, that's OK too.
I think I will feel better with starting with the 5k then I might do an oil analysis to see how that goes. Thanks again.

Just to confirm, this is the one you recommended, correct?

 
If I were in your situation I would change my oil every Jan. 2 and Jul. 2 which would be 7-7.5k miles. You could substitute any two dates 6 months apart. I find it easier to stay on track doing something like that. If my monthly driving changed significantly then I'd adjust up or down as appropriate. And I defer to those who know far more on specific oil choices. My personal vehicle is something
ETA comments based on full synthetic which should easily do 7500 miles without breaking a sweat.
 
If I were in your situation I would change my oil every Jan. 2 and Jul. 2 which would be 7-7.5k miles. You could substitute any two dates 6 months apart. I find it easier to stay on track doing something like that. If my monthly driving changed significantly then I'd adjust up or down as appropriate. And I defer to those who know far more on specific oil choices. My personal vehicle is something
ETA comments based on full synthetic which should easily do 7500 miles without breaking a sweat.
I think that is a good idea, thanks for your suggestion
 
I think I will feel better with starting with the 5k then I might do an oil analysis to see how that goes. Thanks again.

Just to confirm, this is the one you recommended, correct?

Yup, that one!
 
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