Kreen cleaning sneak peek - 1st dose - 800 miles

[Artem]

Here are the results of a 3,500 miles run with two 15oz +/- doses of Kreen. I couldn't add a third dose @ 3k because I was in the middle of a 1,000 mile trip...

Here's how it looked like before (these pics are also posted in the beginning of this thread.

Here are the After pics. I barely see any change.

I changed the oil and filter and added 15oz of Kreen. Going to run another 3k with 3 doses before pulling the valve cover again for another look.

I'm not getting the cleaning results I want. Any comments / ideas?

 

[electrolover]

It seems like the varnish is a bit lighter than when you started. Thanks for the before and after pics!
If it doesn't work you could try redline. Its pretty tough on varnish.
Have you tryed PU yet?
Id like to see before and afters with either of these oils!

 

[OVERKILL]

Definitely run PU, it's the freakin' bees knees according to what must be half the bloody board at this point, I'm sure it'll be surgical clean within 5 minutes of running it!

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Definitely run PU, it's the freakin' bees knees according to what must be half the bloody board at this point, I'm sure it'll be surgical clean within 5 minutes of running it!

Before and after pics would prove it one way or another

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Definitely run PU, it's the freakin' bees knees according to what must be half the bloody board at this point, I'm sure it'll be surgical clean within 5 minutes of running it!

Before and after pics would prove it one way or another


I can only begin to imagine the excuses we'll hear if it doesn't do jack........

 

[electrolover]

Idk.....
I can tell ya one thing tho, redline will put a wooping on some varnish

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
Idk.....
I can tell ya one thing tho, redline will put a wooping on some varnish

It did on my Expedition, where the varnish was light. However the effects on the Focus were much less impressive, likely due to the varnish being that much heavier.

 

[electrolover]

Is it just me or does the head look way cleaner around the 84 casting mark and allen head bolt? Seems like the places that get the most oil are cleaning up well.....

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Definitely run PU, it's the freakin' bees knees according to what must be half the bloody board at this point, I'm sure it'll be surgical clean within 5 minutes of running it!

Hehehe.
It just looks like varnish to me. If it isn't affecting how the engine is running I don't think I would even bother,but that's just me.
Looking forward to more pics. That crusty stuff in the corner looks pretty stubborn.
I like the idea of a product that dissolves to clean rather than manually cleaning it. My biggest fear is blocking the pick up tube with debris whereas a product like kreen doesn't break or scrape stuff off. Leaving no chunks of debris.

 

[mkosem]

At least some of the journals look cleaner on the after pics by my eye. I'm not sure if it's lighting, or if there's a real difference, but the earlier pics seem to pretty clearly show a yellowed surface on them and the later pics are clean metal in that spot.

--Matt

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
It seems like the varnish is a bit lighter than when you started. Thanks for the before and after pics!
If it doesn't work you could try redline. Its pretty tough on varnish.
Have you tryed PU yet?
Id like to see before and afters with either of these oils!


I'm a non believer of plain oils doing ANY kind of serious cleaning on their own. All the cleaning with additives I've been doing this whole time has been with PYB, which many claim to be a very potent cleaning oil all on its own. I highly doubt PU or even expensive Redline will do any better then PYB with either Kreen or Auto-RX helping out. Lets be realistic here.

Speaking of ARX... I received a bottle of the supposedly "NEW" formula or ARX, compliments of Frank. He's telling me that it's better then before and should be able to put a dent in my varnish problem. I can't wait to try it out but first I want to give Kreen a fair shot but doing at least this second 3k interval with 3 good doses to insure plenty of cleaning additives mixed with the oil. We shall see...

 

[matrass]

wonder when they came out with a new formula for ARX ? I must have missed that. suppose the instructions are the same. let us know how it goes.

 

[Artem]

The instruction are the same, as in, change the oil, add ARX and drive 3,000 miles followed by a 3k rinse cycle.

If the new formulation is stronger, it might just scrape up the last bit of this build up. It had over 20,000 miles worth of cleaners splashing around on it. It must have softened up enough to wash out soon.

 

[electrolover]

How do you know if an oil will work if you dont try it?
Redline IS ester, so by nature it will be a good cleaner.

Anyway like I said, I appreciate the thread. Keep us posted

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Definitely run PU, it's the freakin' bees knees according to what must be half the bloody board at this point, I'm sure it'll be surgical clean within 5 minutes of running it!

Finding that out right now. PP was no better than anything else, so thats one marketing claim down. So far its M1 HM at the top, the rest are roughly the same.

 

[LeakySeals]

Sounds good!. Pic at the last Kreen run, pic after the new A-Rx.

 

[Turk]

I just ordered 2 more Quarts of Kreen. Just because I can.

 

[Artem]

I have 2.5 quarts that I don't know what to do with, if this last Kreen cycles doesn't give me the results I'm looking for.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Whats funny is improvement or not, what you're seeing is absolutely of zero concern to the operation of the engine or anything else.


Very true, I can't see any sludge just a little light varnish that is normal for older engines. That varnish will be helping the oil seals and gaskets to function, it should be left in peace.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Trav


Try this..
Next time you take the cover off spray a small area with carb cleaner and see if it removes the varnish without rubbing it.
If it does Kreen will work, if not it probably will not because its in the pores of the metal.

I have had a few engines where it didn't remove the varnish and i had to do it manually, others it did.


Have you tried what Trav mentioned with carb cleaner? If not it would be easy enough to do next time you pop the valve cover. It looks like that metal is stained and you've done about all the cleaning you can with an additive. Beyond this manual cleaning, which would be totally unnecessary, would be the only other option for this engine. Another dose might show some slight improvement, but I think I'd stop here if I were you.