2010 Accord Piston Soak GM Top Cleaner

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May 1, 2012
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Indiana
My 2010 Accord has 280k miles on it. She burns about 0.5 Qts in 5k miles. It was time to change the Iridium Plugs (it's been 95k miles since last change). Car runs great.

But I decided to use some GM Top Cleaner to help remove some combustion chamber deposits while I had the plugs out. I injected 20mls into each cylinder. I also had a can of the foamy aerosol as well, so I gave each cylinder a good 5 second dose of spray as well. I let it sit 24 hours. Disconnected the fuel injector rail and cranked over for 15 seconds with the plugs out. A lot of soft carbon soot came shooting out of all cylinders, especially in Cylinder #1 and a little less in #2.

So I dosed the cylinders again as before and let it sit another 24 hours. Cranked it over again, this time carbon only really came out of Cylinder #1 and a little out of #2. I installed old plugs and fired it up. Smoke Show!! I then put it in D3 and took it to 5.5-6k RPM's 8 times, letting it coast from 90MPH down to 30MPH.

Let it cool a bit and replaced the Denso Iridium plugs with NGK Iridium plugs. She runs good. Can't really tell much difference, but at least it's cleaned up a bit.
First pic is the plugs with 95k on them
Second pic are the products I used
Third pic are the old plugs after flogging it. Notice the dark soot at the end of the threads
Last pic are the new plugs I installed.

Thoughts? Comments?

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I would have drained changed that oil before starting the car for that smoke show. Solvent leak down will destroy the viscosity and additives in the oil.

Let us know how it goes in a few hundred miles.
 
I would have drained changed that oil before starting the car for that smoke show. Solvent leak down will destroy the viscosity and additives in the oil.

Let us know how it goes in a few hundred miles.
I thought the opposite!! I figured a little solvent in the oil would help clean up the oil pan and oil passages. I'm not worried about 100ml of this in my oil..... not when I've added 500ml of Kreen or B12 to the oil before.....
 
That's really impressive. What OCI and oil have you been using ?
It's been a mix of "runs". 10k OCI's with various flavors of M1 and many times dosed with Lubegard BioTech. Had to replace timing chain at 160k miles. Too long between changes.

Now I'm at 5k mile OCI's since the repair. Been running 3 quarts of M1 0w30 or 0w40 or 5W30 EP with 1.5 quarts M1 Racing 0W50 since. But I ran 3 OCI's with HPL 5w40 Super Car recently to provide some cleaning, but I'm back on the M1 Mix with 0w50 Racing again....

I typically run Napa Gold the entire time, but I've recently switched over to Royal Purple filters.
 
Any updates on the oil consumption?
I'll keep this updated, I'm still on the same OCI since the spark plug change. I'm only about 3k miles into this run.

But it doesn't seemed to have changed much. About the time I'm ready for an oil change, I typically add about a half quart and drive it another 500-800 miles and then change the oil. I still got about 1200 miles to run before I expect the oil level to be between the full and add marks on the dipstick
 
Well, the oil consumption hasn't changed. I added a quart at 4,000 miles into this OCI (typical). I'll run this for another 1000 miles and then change the oil. But I think a quart every 5k mile OCI isn't bad for a 14 year old car nearing 300k miles.
You're a braver man than I, having your toolset open in the engine bay like that. Closest mine gets is 10 ft or so. Even kicking it makes a mess, can't imagine knocking it off from a height. Lol

Carry on!
 
Try again with Berryman B12. That stuff completely solved the oil burning in the 2014 Kia Rio. Oil level stays rock solid now.

I was shicked at how well it worked. Only thing I did different was I manually cranked it a turn or so. 4 hours later, added a little to each cylinder. Hand cranked a little more. 4 hours later, etc. etc. Did this 6 times in 24 hours. At the 24 hour point, hand cranked with a little bit of MM oil in each cylinder. Made sure all liquid was out of cylinders. Put in old plugs. SMOKE SHOW.

Ran it to normal operating temperature and smoke was gone. Oil was nice and hot. Did an oil / filter change. Replaced plugs (I just used some autolite iridiums.)

Car runs like a champ! No oil burning.
 
Try again with Berryman B12. That stuff completely solved the oil burning in the 2014 Kia Rio. Oil level stays rock solid now.

I was shicked at how well it worked. Only thing I did different was I manually cranked it a turn or so. 4 hours later, added a little to each cylinder. Hand cranked a little more. 4 hours later, etc. etc. Did this 6 times in 24 hours. At the 24 hour point, hand cranked with a little bit of MM oil in each cylinder. Made sure all liquid was out of cylinders. Put in old plugs. SMOKE SHOW.

Ran it to normal operating temperature and smoke was gone. Oil was nice and hot. Did an oil / filter change. Replaced plugs (I just used some autolite iridiums.)

Car runs like a champ! No oil burning.
I don't think a quart over 5k miles is likely due to "stuck rings".....probably more just wear (valve seals, ring/cylinder wear, etc.) Just my opinion.

Maybe next time I open her up, I'll dry a Berryman soak.

I did run 3 or 4 OCI's with HPL SuperCar and No VII to help with the varnish issue I was having. So I'm wanting to pop off the valve cover and have a look. But I'll wait until I hit 300k miles so I can check the valve lash and have a look-see then.
 
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