STP Pro Formula 10w-30 short 604 mile run with Seafoam

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I've been chasing a lifter noise on my '98 V70 with the B5254T turbo DOHC I5. Stethoscope shows the second exhaust lifter on #5 is making a ticking sound at all temperatures and operating conditions. Began a few thousand miles ago partway through an interval with Valvoline Maxlife 5w-30 full synthetic. Oil pressure is strong with no significant degradation for as long as I've had my digital gauge installed, nearing 75k miles now.

Ended that oil run early at around 3k miles and replaced with fresh. Noise stubbornly remained. Dumped that after another few thousand and tried MMO, using STP Pro Formula 10w-30 as an inexpensive carrier. Oil darkened faster than normal in 2300 miles, and filter caught noticeable carbon grit. Noise didn't really change. Unfortunately did not get a sample of that run.

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Next tried Seafoam at 1 ounce per quart, again with the STP as carrier. Ran it to 604 miles, twice what Seafoam recommends on the bottle when added to the oil. I idled engine at first to full temp to be sure there wasn't a pressure problem. Saw a slight reduction in oil pressure but nowhere near concerning. After that drove normally for a mix of short and long trips. Oil darkened much faster than with the MMO. Drained and took a sample, and also cut the filter open. Less carbon particles, despite the oil darkening faster. Also less of a soot ring than seen with the MMO. Unsure if this means less carbon to remove, or the shorter time meant less of the particles flaked off, or that Seafoam was dissolving deposits more completely. Oil color tested by placing (ideally) a single drop from the dipstick on a sheet of white paper and allowing at least 24h to spread out.

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Interesting sample results here. Despite the slightly low viscosity and the noisy lifter, there's no abnormal wear patterns. Gives me confidence I can continue driving normally while testing various methods for quieting the lifters. Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 is in there now. I know the "right way" is to pull the top end apart and manually clean/rebuild the lifters. But this is a chance for me to see if any of the off the shelf products are viable against an especially stubborn ticking noise.



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Sometimes it sticks sometimes the cam and lifter is bad but the metals do look low. Taking the valve cover off just to see if there's varnish could help. I wonder if it's just not getting enough oil. Other than that run something thick like 15/20w-50 next time or run vrp 5w-30 if you wanna try to do some cleaning.
 
Sometimes it sticks sometimes the cam and lifter is bad but the metals do look low. Taking the valve cover off just to see if there's varnish could help. I wonder if it's just not getting enough oil. Other than that run something thick like 15/20w-50 next time or run vrp 5w-30 if you wanna try to do some cleaning.
Unfortunately the "valve cover" on this engine is a structural cam cover with upper half of the journals. Put engine at TDC, remove timing belt, remove upper torque mount, PCV lines, etc, carefully undo all 40 bolts in exactly the right order, then pry the cover off evenly front to back or something can warp or crack. Putting it back involves cleaning and scraping every last molecule of anaerobic sealant off both surfaces, then assembling even more carefully to avoid leaks or snapping a camshaft in half.

Head itself is super clean inside because I had it apart 30k miles ago for valve stem seals. But I was an idiot and did not manually clean the lifters while it was open. 25k+ later the noise began.

Thick oil won't do much but hurt the already mediocre fuel economy. It's got 85+ psi at cold idle and 20+ at hot idle. Spec is 14 or more hot idle. Would be different if it was barely making 5 at hot idle.
 
Unfortunately the "valve cover" on this engine is a structural cam cover with upper half of the journals. Put engine at TDC, remove timing belt, remove upper torque mount, PCV lines, etc, carefully undo all 40 bolts in exactly the right order, then pry the cover off evenly front to back or something can warp or crack. Putting it back involves cleaning and scraping every last molecule of anaerobic sealant off both surfaces, then assembling even more carefully to avoid leaks or snapping a camshaft in half.

Head itself is super clean inside because I had it apart 30k miles ago for valve stem seals. But I was an idiot and did not manually clean the lifters while it was open. 25k+ later the noise began.

Thick oil won't do much but hurt the already mediocre fuel economy. It's got 85+ psi at cold idle and 20+ at hot idle. Spec is 14 or more hot idle. Would be different if it was barely making 5 at hot idle.
Didn't know those engines were built like that. i was wondering if it might've just had low oil pressure or poor flow but it's above spec. Maybe something is just blocked. I would try a very aggressive cleaning with HPL. I wouldn't bother with the engine cleaner it's not that strong and is more as a prep and your's is clean enough. I can't say the cam is bad as the metals would be higher than that.
 
Didn't know those engines were built like that. i was wondering if it might've just had low oil pressure or poor flow but it's above spec. Maybe something is just blocked. I would try a very aggressive cleaning with HPL. I wouldn't bother with the engine cleaner it's not that strong and is more as a prep and your's is clean enough. I can't say the cam is bad as the metals would be higher than that.
It's an interesting design choice. Makes the head stiffer and shorter, but comes with drawbacks for top end inspection or maintenance. I can only get eyes on intake cams for #3 through the fill port, which look really good considering the engine's age.

I've read a lot of buzz on here about HPL. I'll give that a shot for sure if the Restore and Protect fails to make a dent in the noise in a few thousand miles. I'll be pulling samples and filters here and there to keep a close watch on it, but low wear counts suggest noise is more a nuisance than a sign of immanent failure.
 
Yeah, the UOA looks good? Use a 5w-40 Euro & keep running until? Looks like the car is okay to make some noises at 255k. :)
 
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