Advice on OCI in dusty conditions low mile use

tinkie

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Frontier Region
Lots of questions from different angles here. Objective is to get an adequate OCI going with the best products for dust filtration and engine wear issues.
I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram 5.9L Magnum V8 gas 4x4 with just under 200k miles on it in 2022.
Truck now has a little over 202,000 miles on it in 2024. Two previous owners both knew each other, first pampered it, second used it to tow his boat, runs well however am getting some concerns over a 10 point drop in oil pressure on the gauge from 40'ish to 30'ish that just started. No CEL, no warning lights. Gauges and cluster checks out fine, all working. Just keeping eyes on it.

Dodge recommends 10w30, previous owner used regular Mobil1 dino, no HM. I'm using dino (mostly Pennzoil) and afraid to switch to HM synthetic. Not burning oil. Changed oil today with Castrol dino (gtx?) and oem Mopar filter. 5 quarts goes out, 5 goes in, let it drip for 45 minutes already warmed up. (more later about this oil change).

Background issue is I moved to a very high wind area with blowing powdery dust and sand (think mica specks sparkling inside your air intake tube up to maf, at least on my vics). Hot dry desert summers cold winters sometimes down to 0. Truck's used to work out on the range with a gen in back, some 4 wheeling for work, hauling to the landfill, rarely goes over 55 mph or 2,500 rpms. Round trips on asphalt are either under 10 miles or under 25, maybe twice a month. Work on the range is minimal distances, it's just dusty and hot with some loads in back but never over 600# or so. Add to this I am over 100 miles rt from any mechanic shops, tire shops any type of Napa or Auto zone type deal so have to think things through ahead of time, order online, plan trips.

Main question is aimed at which OCI's are best ( and with what oil) for my climate and conditions, and any suggestions on a good air filter (debate?) like oiled versus paper. I have used oiled K n N on my crown vics and might switch back due to the aforementioned sparkle. The wind is no joke here and literally sandblasts objects and will enter any tiny opening. Just because your hood is closed haha doesn't mean you're not getting a grit bathed engine bay. My Dodge snorkel seems a little too loose fitting for my conditions here but think it's 'normal' slight play. New air intake gasket put on recently, cleaned the intake, not horribly dirty but dirty. One back clip on the Dodge air box is missing, my mechanic (before I moved up here) said nah that's no big deal. I don't hear sucking noises but am concerned for dirt entering, might look into a used oem if I can't buy new replacement.

Oil change today was done with a 10 quart lipped oil drain pan that was here on the property when I bought it. Wiped it out a bit but def not clean . I was swishing the pan like for gold, tipping it and found a few very small flakes of what seemed to be metal but the oil was washing up under the uncleaned lip too. No way to prove whether that was already in the pan or came from my oil. I have never heard any ticking, no clicks, taps, no hard starts, been a good truck and want to keep it this way. Saved this oil filter and ordered a filter cutter tool. Was going to send an oil sample out to Blackstone after I run through the HM Rislone I put in today and put fresh oil though next without the additive. My conundrum is I just don't drive it hard enough or long enough to rack up miles, and I frankly don't have the time for joyriding, I'm working. What are some suggestions for oil, oil and air filters, thoughts on switching to a 40 dino or a 10w30 synthetic? Dealership said once I switch from dino to synth I can't switch back, not so sure about that as I put pure synth and sometimes synthetic blend in my vics no big deal. I depend on this ranch truck and need it to last, it's been a good runner so any opinions/advice are very appreciated.

My idea is to run the Rislone with the Castrol now, try to drive a little faster and longer (not so simple around here), maybe change the oil and filter within one month, cut open the filter and check the metal count. Then either go a plain dino run for a Blackstone analysis or, add another Rislone HM treatment and conditioner (depending on what I find in the filter), run it again on new dino 10w30 / new filter, until I get an idea what's going on with this metal stuff. I'm trying to stay away from going full spazz mode n pulling the oil pan, replacing oil sensor, want to go slow and steady one thing at a time to minimize variables. I see no flatlines to 0 on the oil pressure gauge, it just warms up to an idle or light throttle 30, regular normal startup is 80 on the gauge with that holding with acceleration, might vary down to 60 depends rpms etc. It just never used to go below 40 on idle or coasting etc, that's the only concern (besides is the oil pump going out etc haha). After all this long wind hope am posting this in the right area lol.
 
I'll start. Others will have more information.

#1) With all of that wind and dust/sand, fix the air filter box and stay with good quality regular OE type of air filters...No K&N or oiled filters in dusty areas... just my opinion!

#2) Follow the severe service in the owner's manual(if you have one) for your OCI's. It probably states to do 3mo/3K miles.
I know, I know, you don't do 3K in 3mo!

#3) Use 5W or 10W30 or 40. I don't think it matters. And purchase the oil by price regardless if the oil is Dino or Synthetic.

#4) Both your mechanic & dealership are WRONG! :mad: As I stated, fix your air box clip somehow/someway. Yes it matters especially in dusty areas. And your dealership is also wrong that you can't switch between Dino & Syn oils. You can switch all day long, year-after-year.

#5) I don't know how I feel about Rislone. Just do OCI's on a regular basis. But I don't know the condition of your engine either. :unsure:
 
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I would experiment with DIY prefilters in thicker then OE material. And switch back to OEM filter.

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The way to know how often to change oil is to get a couple UOAs. If dust is your main concern, look at the Si (silica) numbers, as well as the wear metals. Why guess when you can know?

Also, do NOT change the air filter often. That will actually increase the ingestion rate, because air filters become more efficient as they load up with use. Approximately 90% of all particulate an air filter will pass happens in the first 10% of its life. Hence, frequent air filter changes actually increase wear particulate presence in the engine.
 
The way to know how often to change oil is to get a couple UOAs. If dust is your main concern, look at the Si (silica) numbers, as well as the wear metals. Why guess when you can know?

Also, do NOT change the air filter often. That will actually increase the ingestion rate, because air filters become more efficient as they load up with use. Approximately 90% of all particulate an air filter will pass happens in the first 10% of its life. Hence, frequent air filter changes actually increase wear particulate presence in the engine.
People think I’m crazy but I’m in the same camp as you and I don’t change my air filters that often. In fact I still have the original air filter on my Covette (60,500 miles on it!). I don’t drive in a high dust area though and often when I have looked at one of my air filters after 50k in the car they don’t look even close to being loaded up. My UOAs wouldn’t show high silicon either.
 
I’ve lived in the desert most of my life, and the only practical solution I’ve found, is to change the oil and filters a bit more often. Worked with the folks in Army Oil Analysis Program out at Yuma Proving Grounds. We conducted numerous tests on various vehicle filtration systems and improvements were made, but only to a point. The sand and dust course has been in operation for several years, and that sand is finer than talcum powder. While oil will last for several thousand miles, you still have to account for a higher silicon/sand content. 🤷‍♂️
 
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I'll start. Others will have more information.

#1) With all of that wind and dust/sand, fix the air filter box and stay with good quality regular OE type of air filters...No K&N or oiled filters in dusty areas... just my opinion!

#2) Follow the severe service in the owner's manual(if you have one) for your OCI's. It probably states to do 3mo/3K miles.
I know, I know, you don't do 3K in 3mo!

#3) Use 5W or 10W30 or 40. I don't think it matters. And purchase the oil by price regardless if the oil is Dino or Synthetic.

#4) Both your mechanic & dealership are WRONG! :mad: As I stated, fix your air box clip somehow/someway. Yes it matters especially in dusty areas. And your dealership is also wrong that you can't switch between Dino & Syn oils. You can switch all day long, year-after-year.

#5) I don't know how I feel about Rislone. Just do OCI's on a regular basis. But I don't know the condition of your engine either. :unsure:
Hey CharBaby thanks for this! I agree, fix the airbox clip or ****can for replacement. The snorkel also just seems a tad too loose, but I also check my box regularly for packrats starting nests (didn't drop that bomb yesterday 😅). I've seen youtube vids of grown men struggling to get snorkels off and I'm female and meh so assuming mine's ummm 'stretched out' ahahahah :ROFLMAO: truck IS old and plastics break down. God help me at some point I need to custom fit 1/4" hardware cloth wire screens for my three rigs' snorkels. B'tards are relentless, tho 'under control'.

As far as the Rislone, I've been on the fence over 'gentle cleaners' versus flushes and read quite a bit on each choice. The fact I even dared put the R in haha means I must have come to a conclusion. I'll watch all the seams and gaskets. I honestly don't know the true condition of the engine either other than it hasn't given me any trouble - yet. When I first bought it I cleaned up the undercarriage well to inspect for drips/leaks. It's amazingly pretty tight and like I said, If I put 5 quarts in 5 comes out so that's a good sign at least, might be another story driving 1k a month. I have a new jug of Mobil1 advanced synth so will use that in my OCI rotations. (y)
 
I would experiment with DIY prefilters in thicker then OE material. And switch back to OEM filter.

View attachment 230439View attachment 230440
Thanks for the reply! I have to admit, the nerd in me finds this extremely intriguing. I couldn't get it big enough to read the thumbnails, where did you find this? Anyone on here know rough specs for airflow where this added layer might bugger up something? Never thought of this for my vehicles, my tractors all have a foam sleeve around/before a paper filter...hmmm hmmmm....but I wouldn't call that foam very dense or 'special' on my tractors. Odd thing is my tractors, brush hog etc are REALLY out in horrific dust yet those air filters stay amazingly clean (plus am on top of service). Anyone else here care to chime in on Kalle J.'s idea? Maybe buy a roll of 3mm thick AC type filter and cut to size?
 
The way to know how often to change oil is to get a couple UOAs. If dust is your main concern, look at the Si (silica) numbers, as well as the wear metals. Why guess when you can know?

Also, do NOT change the air filter often. That will actually increase the ingestion rate, because air filters become more efficient as they load up with use. Approximately 90% of all particulate an air filter will pass happens in the first 10% of its life. Hence, frequent air filter changes actually increase wear particulate presence in the engine.
Interesting! Makes sense actually. I agree on getting UOAs after I run the Rislone out, definitive answer is the baseline to move from. And you're right, I guess the correct term is 'silica' and not 'mica'. First time I saw the sparkle AFTER my air filter on my favorite Vic I about died, used to be able to eat off my engine bays :cry: Thank you!
 
Thanks for the reply! I have to admit, the nerd in me finds this extremely intriguing. I couldn't get it big enough to read the thumbnails, where did you find this?

Comes stock on most premium filters. Keeps large debris from the filter media
And more critically avoids rain/snow/moisture from freezing on the actual filter media.

 
I’ve lived in the desert most of my life, and the only practical solution I’ve found, is to change the oil and filters a bit more often. Worked with the folks in Army Oil Analysis Program out at Yuma Proving Grounds. We conducted numerous tests on various vehicle filtration systems and improvements were made, but only to a point. The sand and dust course has been in operation for several years, and that sand is finer than talcum powder. While oil will last for several thousand miles, you still have to account for a higher silicon/sand content. 🤷‍♂️
Well there ya go, yup, finer than talcum powder. It's just something you have to try and outwit best you can, even for dwellings. Make sure trim around doors and clearances are tight etc., gravel your driveways and open spaces between outbuildings. Dang. It will find a way in. Are any of these tests available to view online? Were any done using pre filter type screens added to a paper filter like Kalle.J posted? I'm starting to think am going to have to change oil every 1 1/2 months during the dryer season, change less with moisture or snow on the ground (not often). Get snorkel and airbox replaced. What's your mileage between changes and how many months apart? What air filter do you use and type oil?
On a side note, I think the Yuma Proving Grounds is where my Dad used to take 16-20 plus mile walks every day. I remember he said he called to get permission, would take off really early and enjoy the day. Arizona is beautiful, had land there and tried to get something built long distance, didn't work out, so I'm in the next best desert up North from you :)
 
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With your climate, I would consider a 5w40 oil. Something like Rotella T6 or a Euro oil. I wouldn't worry about synthetic causing leaks. My tired old 350TBI in my 87 Chevy loves the 5w40 Euro oils.
 
Fixing the airbox should be your first priority. I'd use an OEM filter, which is least likely to have fitment issues.

A more efficient oil filter will help, but not as much as good air filtration. Most of the wear caused by the dust will be to the piston rings and liners as the dust makes its way into the crankcase, before it can be filtered by the oil filter.

Changing the oil more frequently won't do much to reduce wear. As dust enters the oil, it will quickly get filtered by the oil filter, or it will cause wear and get pulverized into sub-micron particles that are too small to cause further wear. This happens within a few hours after it's introduced. The dust that remains in the oil after a few hours of running isn't much of a concern. It's already done its damage.
 
Everyone should keep in mind that stock air filtration in a car/truck begins with a "velocity drop" box.
Incoming dirty air enters through whatever port or hose. When it gets to the box, the velocity drops because the box is wider than the port or hose diameter.
The biggest dirt precipitates out because the air it's suspended in is now moving more slowly.
Consumers who install open cone and cold air systems are eliminating this vital function.
 
for the oil filter ,consider Fram Ultra, and air filter the same (wall-mart) ,also if dust us a concern I have seen some people stretch a couple of silk stockings over the intake port of the incoming air and replace your clip,making sure you have a good fit around air filter you ,may want to put a bit of grease to help seal edges,, for oil 5w-40 synthetic would be fine,Valvoline,Royal Purple,Castrol etc.
 
Fixing the airbox should be your first priority. I'd use an OEM filter, which is least likely to have fitment issues.

A more efficient oil filter will help, but not as much as good air filtration. Most of the wear caused by the dust will be to the piston rings and liners as the dust makes its way into the crankcase, before it can be filtered by the oil filter.

Changing the oil more frequently won't do much to reduce wear. As dust enters the oil, it will quickly get filtered by the oil filter, or it will cause wear and get pulverized into sub-micron particles that are too small to cause further wear. This happens within a few hours after it's introduced. The dust that remains in the oil after a few hours of running isn't much of a concern. It's already done its damage.
Already got my back clip on its way, duly noted on crankcase 😟. I really appreciate everyone's input here, hope this thread can help someone else, good stuff.
I hauled some sage and juniper (really fine dust and pollen from those too!) to the landfill and by chance hit the arrival of the train, got an excuse to idle for a 1/2 hour stuck at the crossing 😆 sounds weird but I can't wait to dig into my next oil change and filter hahaha and it's barely been 24 hours. Oil pressure still pegged solid at 30's.
Everyone should keep in mind that stock air filtration in a car/truck begins with a "velocity drop" box.
Incoming dirty air enters through whatever port or hose. When it gets to the box, the velocity drops because the box is wider than the port or hose diameter.
The biggest dirt precipitates out because the air it's suspended in is now moving more slowly.
Consumers who install open cone and cold air systems are eliminating this vital function.
Boy I can attest to that! You should see the bottoms of my filter boxes on the Vics!
for the oil filter ,consider Fram Ultra, and air filter the same (wall-mart) ,also if dust us a concern I have seen some people stretch a couple of silk stockings over the intake port of the incoming air and replace your clip,making sure you have a good fit around air filter you ,may want to put a bit of grease to help seal edges,, for oil 5w-40 synthetic would be fine,Valvoline,Royal Purple,Castrol etc.
Isn't the Napa Gold line actually made by Fram? I've been using the NG on my truck, not really loyal to one brand, have oem mopar oil filter on it right now. Think the current air filter is actually a Fram come to think of it.
(y) stocking idea, as long as the birds and rats don't decide to use it for nests 😆
Are you saying stretch it around/over the bottom half of the entire unclipped box or only where the snorkel pops over the box 'mouth' and kind of get it good and held by the top lid and clips on the edge there? Garter stockings would fit that snorkel perfectly end to end like a sleeve with toe covering one opening haha.
(y) on the grease idea, Will be brown quick, wipe down to open, regrease. Good barrier.
I was thinking today about some high heat high compression cushy foam I could ring the snorkel ends with for a tighter seal but this stocking idea is great, do both. I'll order some 5w 40, see what that does for oil pressure. I know I need to get to a Napa or somewhere with oil pressure tester but not gonna be soon. Great ideas here everyone, good info, thanks so much!
 
napa gold filters i think are wix rebranded,,just stretch a couple of silk stockings over the in take of your snorkle intake,leaving a bit of slack ,will catch some dust,and easy to clean, Rember the main air filter is the one doing the bulk of the fine dust removal,i have even took a compressed air hose (gun) and blown out, (remove from vehicle) to gain some time before replacement
 
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