Advice on OCI in dusty conditions low mile use

tinkie

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Frontier Region
Lots of questions from different angles here. Objective is to get an adequate OCI going with the best products for dust filtration and engine wear issues.
I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram 5.9L Magnum V8 gas 4x4 with just under 200k miles on it in 2022.
Truck now has a little over 202,000 miles on it in 2024. Two previous owners both knew each other, first pampered it, second used it to tow his boat, runs well however am getting some concerns over a 10 point drop in oil pressure on the gauge from 40'ish to 30'ish that just started. No CEL, no warning lights. Gauges and cluster checks out fine, all working. Just keeping eyes on it.

Dodge recommends 10w30, previous owner used regular Mobil1 dino, no HM. I'm using dino (mostly Pennzoil) and afraid to switch to HM synthetic. Not burning oil. Changed oil today with Castrol dino (gtx?) and oem Mopar filter. 5 quarts goes out, 5 goes in, let it drip for 45 minutes already warmed up. (more later about this oil change).

Background issue is I moved to a very high wind area with blowing powdery dust and sand (think mica specks sparkling inside your air intake tube up to maf, at least on my vics). Hot dry desert summers cold winters sometimes down to 0. Truck's used to work out on the range with a gen in back, some 4 wheeling for work, hauling to the landfill, rarely goes over 55 mph or 2,500 rpms. Round trips on asphalt are either under 10 miles or under 25, maybe twice a month. Work on the range is minimal distances, it's just dusty and hot with some loads in back but never over 600# or so. Add to this I am over 100 miles rt from any mechanic shops, tire shops any type of Napa or Auto zone type deal so have to think things through ahead of time, order online, plan trips.

Main question is aimed at which OCI's are best ( and with what oil) for my climate and conditions, and any suggestions on a good air filter (debate?) like oiled versus paper. I have used oiled K n N on my crown vics and might switch back due to the aforementioned sparkle. The wind is no joke here and literally sandblasts objects and will enter any tiny opening. Just because your hood is closed haha doesn't mean you're not getting a grit bathed engine bay. My Dodge snorkel seems a little too loose fitting for my conditions here but think it's 'normal' slight play. New air intake gasket put on recently, cleaned the intake, not horribly dirty but dirty. One back clip on the Dodge air box is missing, my mechanic (before I moved up here) said nah that's no big deal. I don't hear sucking noises but am concerned for dirt entering, might look into a used oem if I can't buy new replacement.

Oil change today was done with a 10 quart lipped oil drain pan that was here on the property when I bought it. Wiped it out a bit but def not clean . I was swishing the pan like for gold, tipping it and found a few very small flakes of what seemed to be metal but the oil was washing up under the uncleaned lip too. No way to prove whether that was already in the pan or came from my oil. I have never heard any ticking, no clicks, taps, no hard starts, been a good truck and want to keep it this way. Saved this oil filter and ordered a filter cutter tool. Was going to send an oil sample out to Blackstone after I run through the HM Rislone I put in today and put fresh oil though next without the additive. My conundrum is I just don't drive it hard enough or long enough to rack up miles, and I frankly don't have the time for joyriding, I'm working. What are some suggestions for oil, oil and air filters, thoughts on switching to a 40 dino or a 10w30 synthetic? Dealership said once I switch from dino to synth I can't switch back, not so sure about that as I put pure synth and sometimes synthetic blend in my vics no big deal. I depend on this ranch truck and need it to last, it's been a good runner so any opinions/advice are very appreciated.

My idea is to run the Rislone with the Castrol now, try to drive a little faster and longer (not so simple around here), maybe change the oil and filter within one month, cut open the filter and check the metal count. Then either go a plain dino run for a Blackstone analysis or, add another Rislone HM treatment and conditioner (depending on what I find in the filter), run it again on new dino 10w30 / new filter, until I get an idea what's going on with this metal stuff. I'm trying to stay away from going full spazz mode n pulling the oil pan, replacing oil sensor, want to go slow and steady one thing at a time to minimize variables. I see no flatlines to 0 on the oil pressure gauge, it just warms up to an idle or light throttle 30, regular normal startup is 80 on the gauge with that holding with acceleration, might vary down to 60 depends rpms etc. It just never used to go below 40 on idle or coasting etc, that's the only concern (besides is the oil pump going out etc haha). After all this long wind hope am posting this in the right area lol.
 
I live in a fairly dusty environment. I go a max of 5k miles on the oil changes. I run restriction gauges on air filters and ONLY open the box when it is time to change. I use a damp lint free rag to wipe the insofar the air box clean I use grease on the mating surfaces of the filter (Redline CV2) nowadays before I install them. I'm 38 and that's been my routine since I was 13, carried over from farm equipment, taught to me by my step dad. I have run cars and trucks over 400k with great compression and running strong. I have run two tractors over 12k hours and one over 13,500 hours running excellent with factory turbos and OEM engine bearings so it works for me.
 
napa gold filters i think are wix rebranded,,just stretch a couple of silk stockings over the in take of your snorkle intake,leaving a bit of slack ,will catch some dust,and easy to clean, Rember the main air filter is the one doing the bulk of the fine dust removal,i have even took a compressed air hose (gun) and blown out, (remove from vehicle) to gain some time before replacement
Thanks on the placement of the hosiery :ROFLMAO:
After cutting open my last oil filter today , I've been searching for filters with best 'dirt-holding capacity'. Oh my Lord it was bad in there. Running it between nitrile gloved fingers you can feel the fine grit. The Napa Gold I had on at least caught plenty of this silty sandy krap. no metal bits but I'm not convinced that type of filter is best for my conditions and it had plenty outside the folds instead of caught inside. It's the same when I wash my work clothes, rinse water goes into the utility sink and I have to scrape up the mud, we're talking a good tablespoon or more, now imagine my engine. I can use my hepa vacuum on the filter. Clip is out in the mailbox to be put on, really not a gap back there visible but I'm betting it was sucking dirt in.
I live in a fairly dusty environment. I go a max of 5k miles on the oil changes. I run restriction gauges on air filters and ONLY open the box when it is time to change. I use a damp lint free rag to wipe the insofar the air box clean I use grease on the mating surfaces of the filter (Redline CV2) nowadays before I install them. I'm 38 and that's been my routine since I was 13, carried over from farm equipment, taught to me by my step dad. I have run cars and trucks over 400k with great compression and running strong. I have run two tractors over 12k hours and one over 13,500 hours running excellent with factory turbos and OEM engine bearings so it works for me.
Thanks for the reply, what's your 'restriction gauge' exactly? I have to open my boxes regularly to check for ummm sigh... 😣 field mice, pack rats, voles, (even had a gopher in there) yes, I live wayyyy in the country with a gazillion odd desert mammals that manage to get all the way up through the long snorkel of my Dodge Ram. They're smart, steel is the best protection from predators. I have one vehicle fixed with welded wire 1/4" hardware cloth inserted into the snorkel gotta do the rest. PITA.
Thank you so much for the grease brand tip (y), buying some, putting it on filter mating surface then on the wider lips of ALLLLL my airboxes, this is war. I've got two tractors also, a brush hog and other equipment and man you should see the dust clouds we get into and raise. I've gotta step up my game. Can't even use a 'shed' or rv port open fronted to shelter them as the wind just eddies in with a dust storm coming from the wheat fields a ways off or the open range to the West. I'm buying some elasticized plastic covers like big shower caps for my tractors and small equipment, can almost make you cry seeing that powder up top your tractor after just one work session. What brand of oil and air filter do you use on your passenger vehicles?
 
I use restriction gauges like these. They seen to work fine. The grease helps aeal out the fine dust that may make it around the filter seal. I use Motorcraft air filters in my Powerstrokes. They have a scotchbright like pre filter. I use Wix "Racing " air filters in the Tacoma. The wix Racing air filter also has that scotchbright pre-filter. Oil filters i use Donaldson and Baldwin on everything.
Oil Redline 15w40 in the diesels, Redline 5w30 in the 3.5 Tacoma. On the dust issue, I'm the same way. I will cover top-down my pressure washer, DR trimmer thing, smaller generators etc with trash bags. It works well for dust and is cheap.

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Just updating for anyone facing same issues as me and will add pics tomorrow. I found ONE pic online that showed exactly what I was seeing in my original dirty oil filter, the precursor to sludge. The oily slightly grainy gunk. Moisture/condensation issue from too short of trips, low temps.

Can't find a used airbox online with complete tabs on back, all online are worse than mine.. Added pantyhose pre filter to air box intake tube and gorilla taped the airbox til I can find a replacement.

Last week I ran one quart bottle Rislone formula 4102 maximum performance engine treatment and conditioner with 4 quarts of Castrol dino oil. The 4102 is the treatment you want for dirty engines. Drove the truck a few extra miles and times, got it up to 3k rpms just a bit.

Today was exactly a week since that last oil change and loaded up filter. Went ahead and drained it hot tonight and I can def see cleaning going on. I 'gold panned' the drain pan and found a few pinhead size carbon type black chunks size of a pinhead. When rubbed lightly between fingers they simply broke down and dissolved. Some carbon color smears darker than the oil were on the bottom of the drain pan, could reveal them by swirling the oil slowly and tipping pan. Oil wasn't black as night but let's just say it was def dirtier than a one week OCI should be.

I'm impressed so far and my oil pressure gauge has remained steady while on the lower number, no needle wavering or dipping downwards, and has climbed up further into the higher 30's and is staying there. I know it's an idiot gauge but it functions and is reading higher for the off the throttle, idling, warmed up better etc. I'll run this batch of Rislone for maybe two weeks this time with some heavier longer runs in the truck then crack the new oem filter. Will compare current dirty oil change oil filter load to very first filter load. Am highly optimistic this is the way to go versus drop the oil pan and crack top end for now until I can get a proper oil pressure test. Regardless, the cleaning needs to happen.
 
My goal is get the air intake portion sand proof and get rid of the current buildup from - take your pick - super short trips, low temp, unknown previous owner's oil filter and oil change habits along with their towing a boat, the dusty conditions here. Since I haven't even put 3k miles on it since Xmas 2022 and it's had three oil changes, it's wayyyyy too early for THIS kind of crud - except for the above listed haha. right.
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Here's some pics after one week of running Rislone #4102 engine treatment on a fresh 4 quarts of oil. Loaded. There's a bit of grit (no metal) but most of it breaks down easily into black carbon smears and dissipates in the oil. I'm going to keep going with it until I get a decent oil and filter change interval that comes out way cleaner than this mess.
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My goal is get the air intake portion sand proof and get rid of the current buildup from - take your pick - super short trips, low temp, unknown previous owner's oil filter and oil change habits along with their towing a boat, the dusty conditions here. Since I haven't even put 3k miles on it since Xmas 2022 and it's had three oil changes, it's wayyyyy too early for THIS kind of crud - except for the above listed haha. right.
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Here's some pics after one week of running Rislone #4102 engine treatment on a fresh 4 quarts of oil. Loaded. There's a bit of grit (no metal) but most of it breaks down easily into black carbon smears and dissipates in the oil. I'm going to keep going with it until I get a decent oil and filter change interval that comes out way cleaner than this mess.
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Don't run k&n trash in the desert h3ll scape. I'm in New Mexico so I know what you mean. What oil to use, OCI and oil filter choice are irrelevant. The name of the game is air filtration. Pull an air box clip of a junk yard dodge.
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East coast city girls with grocery getter truck just don't get it.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/installed-a-filter-minder.383395/
 
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