hey ray H, I just changed my oil last week. my total cost was $1.97 for the oversize supertech filter. I got maxlife for free after rebate.
I'm cheap!
- Thread starter PJH
- Start date
- Status
I use it in my truck for one reason. Cause I'm crazy. I figure it this way. I pay $462 per month on my truck and will be paying that for approxiamtely 2.5 more years. I have 72K on the truck already. That means that I'll probably have 140K on the truck before its payed off. Yikes! Sure I could save the $50 per year that I spend on synthetics and send it to Ford. But that really won't change my payments. Will it extend my engine life beyond 200K. D@mn I sure hope so. I'm gambling here, hoping that synthetic oil and meticulous maintenance will extend the useful life of this truck up to 10 years with the current duty. That is probably 350K with no major problems. Thats a tall order for any vehicle, never mind a full size American made 4x4 pickup with a V6.
Yeah - I know. Should have saved my money so that I could afford the V8 and easily make 250-300K. I couldn't afford it at the time. And I'm stubborn. And now thanks to the people on this site I'm addicted to oil. So the point is now moot. Most people here are so oil crazy that they have both dino and syn on their shelves at home, in ridicuous quanities.
Face it folks. There is no need to argue. We are the few, the proud, those who maintain their vehicles with honor. What tools we use to do so is our own discretion.
Yeah - I know. Should have saved my money so that I could afford the V8 and easily make 250-300K. I couldn't afford it at the time. And I'm stubborn. And now thanks to the people on this site I'm addicted to oil. So the point is now moot. Most people here are so oil crazy that they have both dino and syn on their shelves at home, in ridicuous quanities.
Face it folks. There is no need to argue. We are the few, the proud, those who maintain their vehicles with honor. What tools we use to do so is our own discretion.
I'm cheaper than cheap. That's why I used synthetic. Benefits...
- extended change interval = 1/2 labor + 1/2 filters for the life of the car
- increased gas mileage
- much better protection for the turbo... especially for those long trips when the ambient temp is above 100*F with A/C at full blast and cruise set at 85 mph.
On some cars, dino oil makes more sense.
- extended change interval = 1/2 labor + 1/2 filters for the life of the car
- increased gas mileage
- much better protection for the turbo... especially for those long trips when the ambient temp is above 100*F with A/C at full blast and cruise set at 85 mph.
On some cars, dino oil makes more sense.
It's called pushing the enevelope on extended drains...
Yes, synthetics are good, but I'll take an HDEO 15w-40 in a turbo application as well...$6/gallon for Pennz. Long-Life and it will protect that turbo very well.
Yep, I agree. We here are definitely in the "few" here, but I'll take it one further and say that "we" as a whole are the most educated on the 'net when it comes to lubrication and filters.
[ October 29, 2003, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Sorry it is a Canadian thing Ah!
k for kilometers
m for miles
Hehehe, FWIW, you are both right - to a point. 8k miles is a combination of both SAE & metric. The USA just can't make up it mind on weather it wants to use the metric system or not. Once too ofter we have combined them. For my truck, I need two sets of tools, both SAE & metric. In my mind, as a paramedic that deals with milligrams, milliliters, cubic centimeters,... etc, I think the metric system makes much more sense.quote:
Originally posted by PJH:
Sorry it is a Canadian thing Ah!
k for kilometers
m for miles
The point I'm trying to make:
In 3k miles - the "k" stands for kilo, or thousand.
In 8000K - the "K" stands for kilometers, or thousand meters.
Point well taken.
May I suggest a banner above Canadian or other metric origin posts that says "Warning, Units in this post may be hazardous to your health".
If we would have only listened to Jefferson and gone metric in his day! What I love are the mixed things, 205 mm 55% 16 inch tires on my car. I have 12 mm sockets in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 INCH drives. Fortunately having bought Jap or GM since 1971, I haven't suffered too much from mixed SAE/metric. I guess if we are going to use K in place of ,000, we should use the units too.
The relative value of a vehicle dictates how costly of an oil change programme should be. A nice new car that could use a fine oil should get it, a cheap old car, once a year with dino.
Change intervals based strictly on time with oil *quality* based on miles is my scheme. 10,000 miles a year in a cheap car means cheap oil every 6 months. 15,000 miles in that same car means good synthetic, still twice a year. 20,000 miles a year (me) in a nice car means 3 times a year with GC or M1 0w-40, 7000 miles per. I know in advance to change oil in all the cars I service (except mine) together in a group, and what it will cost over time. Very convenient.
Looking at it as a budget, for $100 a year an average person could get 2 dealer changes with M1, 12,000 miles. That person could get 3 dino changes of 4000 miles instead probally for the same price. Which is better? 6000 miles synth or 4000 miles dino. Fresh oil 3 times seems better, but I'll take the good synth twice, my car needs good oil and it is more convenient since I do not use Quickie-Lube, dealer only.
[ November 03, 2003, 12:16 AM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
Change intervals based strictly on time with oil *quality* based on miles is my scheme. 10,000 miles a year in a cheap car means cheap oil every 6 months. 15,000 miles in that same car means good synthetic, still twice a year. 20,000 miles a year (me) in a nice car means 3 times a year with GC or M1 0w-40, 7000 miles per. I know in advance to change oil in all the cars I service (except mine) together in a group, and what it will cost over time. Very convenient.
Looking at it as a budget, for $100 a year an average person could get 2 dealer changes with M1, 12,000 miles. That person could get 3 dino changes of 4000 miles instead probally for the same price. Which is better? 6000 miles synth or 4000 miles dino. Fresh oil 3 times seems better, but I'll take the good synth twice, my car needs good oil and it is more convenient since I do not use Quickie-Lube, dealer only.
[ November 03, 2003, 12:16 AM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
I think you can win with dino or synth. from a cost standpoint. People need to get wise to the bad bill of goods the oil and car companies have been selling us in this country in regard to oil change intervals. I have never had an oil related problem with dino, but feel that since I'm not one of the masses who pay to have their dino changed at Jiff-Lube every 3K miles for $30. I can afford to experiment with the fancier stuff (M1, Amsoil, Schaeffer, HDEO, etc.) for no added cost if I choose too. I think the real savings with cars is in doing ALL of your own service work, I have saved enough money in the last 2 years alone to buy 10 years worth of synth for all my cars!
[ November 03, 2003, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Kompressor ]
[ November 03, 2003, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: Kompressor ]
It costs $21.95 cdn to have dino oil + oem filter installed at the Mazda dealer.
If I buy the oil it will cost me around $10 + a filter can be around $7 (oem) to $10 (Wix).
Doing it myself - and having to get rid of the old oil and filter just doesn't seem worth it.
If I buy the oil it will cost me around $10 + a filter can be around $7 (oem) to $10 (Wix).
Doing it myself - and having to get rid of the old oil and filter just doesn't seem worth it.
To answer Garry- I have babied this toyota for 150,000 miles but I purchased it with 100,000 so it has 250,000 miles. It was well maintained by the previous owner with 3000 mile oil changes. I have maintained it with 3000 mile oil changes with Castrol GTX 10-30,10-40 and 20w50. It now uses 1 quart of oil 20w-50 every 500 miles which I consider worn. I have hope that auto-rx may help but I have just started that treatment. I believe if this car had received synthetic every 6000 miles it would be less worn at this time.
Miatadan has 215,000 miles on a miata and uses
1 quart every 3000 miles using mobil 1 10w-30 and 5000 mile changes.
And by the way no towing at all mostly highway miles.
Miatadan has 215,000 miles on a miata and uses
1 quart every 3000 miles using mobil 1 10w-30 and 5000 mile changes.
And by the way no towing at all mostly highway miles.
PJH, nothing wrong with your plan at all, but IMO the engine oil is a minor part of maintaining a car from a $ervice perspective (weather dino or not). For example I save at least $600. everytime I do a brake job myself (far more on the wifes Mercedes), I can certainly understand if someone doesn't have the time, interest, wherewithall or space to do so, but it saves me alot of money I would have given the dealer at $80. on the hour to accomplish the same goals, and I actually enjoy the challenge. Some of the savings goes back into the vehicles in the form of premium parts, top of the line tires, shocks, brakes, oil, etc.
I agree with you Kompressor - however even though I like to do some minor things myself I unfortunately do not have the facilities, tools or skill to do some repairs. If we lived closer I would be over to learn from you!
cheers
cheers
Here goes my $.02!
If you look at the life of a internal combustion engine things like ring and bearing wear seldom side line an engine that has been maintained to the factory maintence schedule.
The killers of engine life under these conditions are as follows.
1) Valve guides wear out due to ash produced by some voltile oils.
2)Ring packs carbon up.
3)Emissons control carbon up.
3)Seals carbon up.
4)Seals dry rott or shrink.
So under these conditions an oil that leaves little of itself behind is the most important factor and wear is secondary.
Things like ring wear, cam wear, main bearings wearing out etc.... is usualy atributed to poor maintence.
If you look at the life of a internal combustion engine things like ring and bearing wear seldom side line an engine that has been maintained to the factory maintence schedule.
The killers of engine life under these conditions are as follows.
1) Valve guides wear out due to ash produced by some voltile oils.
2)Ring packs carbon up.
3)Emissons control carbon up.
3)Seals carbon up.
4)Seals dry rott or shrink.
So under these conditions an oil that leaves little of itself behind is the most important factor and wear is secondary.
Things like ring wear, cam wear, main bearings wearing out etc.... is usualy atributed to poor maintence.
- Status
Similar threads
- Sticky
