Oil Recommendation Nissan VQ40DE + opinions on current oil/filter

[Hall]

I’ll take away the surprise, -35 or so. And it’s not about flow.

Exactly. It seems that people think you need to worry about 0W oils at +35º F. That's not even cold ! I'm wearing shorts and a sweatshirt !

 

[twX]

WIX XP was so bad in efficiency it isn’t even on this graph posted by Andrew at Ascent filtration.

The WIX XP in that test was defective and bypassing over 10% of the oil flow, which is why its efficiency capped at under 90%. If not for the defect it would have been similar to the Purolator BOSS, 99% at ~35 micron.

actually switched to the XP on purpose when I was experimenting with Schaeffer moly EP which is pretty thick stuff, not as bad as gorilla snot Lucas though. In my mind the synthetic media and slightly downgraded efficiency of that filter might equate to better flow with thicker oil, not sure if there’s any truth to that though since the flow rate and bypass settings are the same for the reg and xp filter for my application.

There is some truth to that. The WIX XP is one of the least restrictive filters out there and has a high holding capacity as well. The tradeoff is mediocre efficiency. The flow rate "ratings" given by filter manufacturers are meaningless though. It's usually just the flow rate that was used for the efficiency test, and it has no relation to how much the filter will flow before it starts bypassing.

 

[Rogueman2016s]

Longtime BITOG reader, first time poster.

Currently have 192k and some change on a 2012 xterra with a vq40de 4.0 V6. Owners manual calls for 5W-30 in most climates with a change interval of 3750mi. I change my oil and filter every 3k. Along with commuting ~30mi round trip I use this vehicle for towing boats and pretty frequent offroad use in a variety of terrain. Summer temps are hot 100+ and during duck season in the winter we get temps in the mid teens.

For the first few years of this vehicle’s life I used castrol GTX conventional, then at about 60k switched to basic synthetics (I.e. Mobil 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, rotella gas truck). Variety of filters used mostly Purolator, K&N, Fleetguard, and Wix. The last few years has been a mix of Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, Pennzoil platinum high mileage, and rotella T6 multi-vehicle along with either a Wix XP or regular Wix/NAPA Gold. I also experimented with Schaeffer 132 Moly EP and Liqui Moly MoS2 additives over the years, but came to the conclusion I would rather use a fully formulated quality oil in the right viscosity than try to outsmart the engineers.

After doing my valve cover gaskets 2 weeks ago I am using Valvoline maxlife blend 5W-30 and a quart of Pennzoil high mileage syn blend with a Wix 57356 filter. Cams looked great when I had the valve covers off.

Is the current synthetic blend and regular Wix a solid choice for the temperatures, usage, and OCI I described? Will the blend hold up ok in my V6 for hot summer weather as well as winter use during duck season? If I went back to synthetic I would probably go with Valvoline extended protection high mileage as I like the VI and HTHS, as well as the boosted zinc and phosphorus vs regular maxlife. Admittedly I am a Valvoline fanboy but not opposed to Pennzoil. Not really interested in boutique oils they are too expensive for how often I change my oil, but I do use Amsoil severe gear 75w-140 in the rear diff!

Basically I’m trying to decide if I should stick with the syn blend and regular Wix, or if I should go back to full synthetic and Wix xp. Other recommendations are welcome but keep in mind I’m partial to Valvoline and Pennzoil with a wix or Fleetguard filter. Unfortunately stratapore is not available for my application.

Filter options..
Pro-tec, ecogard, fvp or microgard

 

[fishhuntsaluda]

Check what temperatures 0W and 5W apply to. You'll probably be surprised.


How cold do you get there ? 0W and 5W are beneficial in sub-freezing temperatures and I doubt you're dealing with that. My VQ35 is quieter with some oils vs others. Castrol Edge 0W-40 is noisy but Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 is quiet. QS Euro 5W-40 is quiet.

It’s not uncommon to get down to 10-15 F for a few days in the winter, especially in the mountains. Average winter temps would be in the 20s and 30s. Kicker is that I’m usually out on the coldest days since that’s when the ducks are flying!

 

[kschachn]

The WIX XP in that test was defective and bypassing over 10% of the oil flow, which is why its efficiency capped at under 90%. If not for the defect it would have been similar to the Purolator BOSS, 99% at ~35 micron.


There is some truth to that. The WIX XP is one of the least restrictive filters out there and has a high holding capacity as well. The tradeoff is mediocre efficiency. The flow rate "ratings" given by filter manufacturers are meaningless though. It's usually just the flow rate that was used for the efficiency test, and it has no relation to how much the filter will flow before it starts bypassing.

And unless your engine is possibly defective or quite different than any I've seen, holding capacity and restriction is largely irrelevant. Even my old 1MZ-FE "sludge monster" at over 450,000 miles has next to nothing in the pleats on the filters I've cut open. Therefore the actual relevant factor in nearly any filter application is efficiency.

And sucks about he WIX XP in that test, eh?

 

[fishhuntsaluda]

And unless your engine is possibly defective or quite different than any I've seen, holding capacity and restriction is largely irrelevant. Even my old 1MZ-FE "sludge monster" at over 450,000 miles has next to nothing in the pleats on the filters I've cut open. Therefore the actual relevant factor in nearly any filter application is efficiency.

And sucks about he WIX XP in that test, eh?

With higher than stock oil pressure/high boost levels you need high flow rate. In a race application flow for lubrication/cooling and stopping big debris is more important than fine filtration since the engine gets rebuilt every 2-3 races (depending on the engine and type of racing). My xterra is fairly modified with upgraded cooling system, true ECU tune, intake/headers/exhaust, all the goodies. But I still think the regular Wix flows plenty for what I do, I don’t think I need an XP. My jeep buggy on the other hand runs a high compression 350 SBC with a custom cam grind, precision turbo setup, open long tube headers. For that application I run a Wix racing filter (it’s a rock bouncer/hill climb rig)

I agree that for an average engine efficiency is probably the most important factor with flow restriction coming in second. The efficiency of a given filter might be great but if the oil can’t move through the highly efficient filter media without it bypassing what good does that do?

I am NOT pushing for Wix XP, just trying to get pros and cons from other folks. I find it helpful to get outside opinions and experience when considering a change. As I said right now I am running regular Wix and will likely continue to do so

 

[BrendanC]

With higher than stock oil pressure/high boost levels you need high flow rate. In a race application flow for lubrication/cooling and stopping big debris is more important than fine filtration since the engine gets rebuilt every 2-3 races (depending on the engine and type of racing). My xterra is fairly modified with upgraded cooling system, true ECU tune, intake/headers/exhaust, all the goodies. But I still think the regular Wix flows plenty for what I do, I don’t think I need an XP. My jeep buggy on the other hand runs a high compression 350 SBC with a custom cam grind, precision turbo setup, open long tube headers. For that application I run a Wix racing filter (it’s a rock bouncer/hill climb rig)

I agree that for an average engine efficiency is probably the most important factor with flow restriction coming in second. The efficiency of a given filter might be great but if the oil can’t move through the highly efficient filter media without it bypassing what good does that do?

I am NOT pushing for Wix XP, just trying to get pros and cons from other folks. I find it helpful to get outside opinions and experience when considering a change. As I said right now I am running regular Wix and will likely continue to do so

nothing you did increased the oil flow and the six XP doesn’t flow significantly more oil. if keeping the engine healthy for as long as possible is a goal, higher efficiency is important.

 

[john_pifer]

I think the best bet is go to wall mart ,get some name brand 5w-30 synthetic, like Pennzoil platinum, Castrol edge,Vavoline EP ,or what ever,and Fram ultra filter,and run for 5k,,you will be fine, a high milage oil if you feel its needed,all will perform well in your climate. dont add any additives as this can (and does) upset the carefully formulated oil.

Well-said.

Personally, I’ve chosen M1 0W-40 these days with my 290,000+ mile Tacoma 4.0.

It did live most of its life on 5W-30 or 10W-30.

But always M1.

Runs like new.

 

[ATex7239]

My vote is go with a store brand 5W30 blend just to troll the “everything must be euro 0W40 “ crowd. Then post all changes in the recent oil change thread.

That’s kinda what I do, if you look at the oil choices my signature. Yes, I sometimes do oil changes ironically - gotta spice things up once in awhile.

 

[MolaKule]

Longtime BITOG reader, first time poster.

Currently have 192k and some change on a 2012 xterra with a vq40de 4.0 V6. Owners manual calls for 5W-30 in most climates with a change interval of 3750mi. I change my oil and filter every 3k. Along with commuting ~30mi round trip I use this vehicle for towing boats and pretty frequent offroad use in a variety of terrain. Summer temps are hot 100+ and during duck season in the winter we get temps in the mid teens.

For the first few years of this vehicle’s life I used castrol GTX conventional, then at about 60k switched to basic synthetics (I.e. Mobil 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, rotella gas truck). Variety of filters used mostly Purolator, K&N, Fleetguard, and Wix. The last few years has been a mix of Valvoline full synthetic high mileage, Pennzoil platinum high mileage, and rotella T6 multi-vehicle along with either a Wix XP or regular Wix/NAPA Gold. I also experimented with Schaeffer 132 Moly EP and Liqui Moly MoS2 additives over the years, but came to the conclusion I would rather use a fully formulated quality oil in the right viscosity than try to outsmart the engineers.

After doing my valve cover gaskets 2 weeks ago I am using Valvoline maxlife blend 5W-30 and a quart of Pennzoil high mileage syn blend with a Wix 57356 filter. Cams looked great when I had the valve covers off.

Is the current synthetic blend and regular Wix a solid choice for the temperatures, usage, and OCI I described? Will the blend hold up ok in my V6 for hot summer weather as well as winter use during duck season? If I went back to synthetic I would probably go with Valvoline extended protection high mileage as I like the VI and HTHS, as well as the boosted zinc and phosphorus vs regular maxlife. Admittedly I am a Valvoline fanboy but not opposed to Pennzoil. Not really interested in boutique oils they are too expensive for how often I change my oil, but I do use Amsoil severe gear 75w-140 in the rear diff!

Basically I’m trying to decide if I should stick with the syn blend and regular Wix, or if I should go back to full synthetic and Wix xp. Other recommendations are welcome but keep in mind I’m partial to Valvoline and Pennzoil with a wix or Fleetguard filter. Unfortunately stratapore is not available for my application.

Just relating some experience with my 2012 Frontier with the same engine.

I use mostly 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer, all fully synthetic formulated oils.
I have over 100,000 miles on it now and no oil consumption and no leaks. OCI is 3500 to 5000 miles, depending on garage temp.

The filter has always been the Wix TG7317.

 

[ripcord]

OP, you're WAY overthinking this, so you'll fit in here quite well. With 3k changes, you won't go wrong with any oil available on the shelf at Walmart or your local auto parts store.

 

[ka9mnx]

Wouldn’t 0W-40 be a better choice for year round since it theoretically flows better cold, and also has higher viscosity when hot?

Hint: Check out my signature...