I get to choose a "cleaning" oil for my Subaru EJ today. What should I choose?

What you are driving is a "spare car" :)

The subaru dipstick are flaky and hard to get a consistent read.
The notch above the top hole is for FULL HOT level; Never EVER go above this.

Make sure you are on level ground you a slight tilt ( @Roll more than pitch) will make the difference between 1/3 qt low and a 1/3 qt over reading.

You may just be cleaning up carbon and mineral deposits from years of conservative driving.

If you have no - belt record of service, then get to that ASAP.
You need the major idler replaced too. They fall apart.
Surprised yours is running, it must have been serviced.
There are kits that include everything.
Hard pa[rt is getting the plastic covers off - the small capscrew fasteners are usually corroded into the aluminum.

View attachment 35982

After a few days of fooling with it, I realize I have a vacuum leak. The seller sold it on the cheap.. probably because his P0420 code couldn't pass the inspection. I fooled with it enough I got it to pass inspection. And if you saw how I presently have a "patch" on the vacuum leak intake tube (there is a split in the accordion part) you would LOL. And I'm getting that is what caused the P0420 . If that doesn't fix it: Rear 02 sensor, .... I'll mention it to them when they do the belt because I don't have any service records and this car cost $700.

The crank position sensor went out on it and left me stranded. Happy Birthday.

The intake tube costs https://www.carparts.com/details/Su...0TGOxeP5TseN1jhEMjhoCIOcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I would just buy some 3" clamps.
 
Arent those old Subaru Speed density? Wonder why it threw a code.

Is there an IAT sensor up stream?

Old cars are not cheap. I know I just made the mistake of buying a 2011 Outback.

Better to Lease a Honda Civic for $139- a month for 2 years.
You will have paid for one year of the brand new Honda by the end of January.
 
No, all and only speculation. I know I just started it after an hour or so (engine still warm) and it did it again. I'll go start it after this post and it probably won't. It is so weird.

It sems I just have to live with it, until I can purchase a spare car and drop this one off for water pump/timing belt and mention to them, "Oh, and check out the noise it makes when you first start it up (and then won't if you turn it off and then turn it on again.)" Then they can tell me what it is.

Here is my oil level with the newly selected oil. What is that notch above the "F"? This after the car sat for about an hour.

L2dZfiu.jpg

afGcNTN.jpg
Everything looks spotless! No varnish or discoloration. Looks great!
 
Anyone mentioned BG EPR yet? Put into your oil, idle for 10-15 mins, change as usual and good to go
 
Back
Top