I get to choose a "cleaning" oil for my Subaru EJ today. What should I choose?

JT20

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I am now letting the car cool down so that I can check the level of the oil.

Apparently you check it stone cold. As is how I was always taught how to check oil. First thing in the morning.

Boxers are weird.
 

JT20

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To the OP

My approach would be....

You get from work (warm oil).......you change oil +/- oil filter....

And grab the cheapest 15w40 hdeo........drive it for a week......and then pour in 1dcl of diesel fuel or dedicated engine flush.....idle it for 10 minutes....

Change oil and filter.....and proceed with your oil of choice...

Been there....done that!

I didn't see any chunks, so, that's a good sign. So the oil did not chunkify.

As slow and gradual as I can.
 
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A common cause of flickering oil light on these engines is the oil pump plate loosens on the back of the pump, not a bad job and the screws should be secured with loctite in when doing the timing belt.
These engine are prone to rod knock and oil leaking from the heads as they age and I wouldn't recommend running any sort of solvent through it especially in this case.

The split cases are sealed with RTV and it does not tolerate strong solvents or esters very well, dino, HDEO, PAO or group III synthetics with no aftermarket additives is the best way to go.
 
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An HOUR? I'm not watching an hour, but if it says a Boss and a One are the same it is a complete waste of bandwidth anyway... The Boss might be the only current Purolator filter worth risking, but why bother when a ULTRA is less money.

I'd personally probably put M1 0/40 and a TG on it if i was going to do 5000 miles.
 

JT20

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An HOUR? I'm not watching an hour, but if it says a Boss and a One are the same it is a complete waste of bandwidth anyway... The Boss might be the only current Purolator filter worth risking, but why bother when a ULTRA is less money.

I'd personally probably put M1 0/40 and a TG on it if i was going to do 5000 miles.

Purolator is at 13:39. Only difference appears to be that the one I have has a Nitrile ADBV and not silicone. Between that, the PureOne and BOSS look very, very similar, I'll watch it again since someone said they were not.

The Mobil 1, K&N and Royal Purple are at 26:16 and, again... identical. (I think one had it's manufacturer letter code of a plate or metal ring or something in a different place but that is it... Look at the video lol.)

Now just real quick.. it was said that people are thinking my light flickers when the car is on and oil gets hot. That is not the case. Only on a first start-up.. or, after it sat awhile. Trying to get some kind of timeframe on how long it takes before it does it by timing starts but last night I gave the car its first FULL oil change. ST 5W-30 FS. So now the question would be, how long oil takes to clean...
 
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...So now the question would be, how long oil takes to clean...
O.k. I'm here. I've owned nine subarus over 35 years from a Justy three cylinder commuter to an SVX sixer high speed highway cruiser
I haven't got the whole story, why are you trying to clean up the engine? Did you just buy a car that was abused?
Is the engine making noise? You should NOT have much to clean up; These engine are super easy on oil.

I Just got a used Outback with an EJ It's got rod knock or collapsed piston skirt,
I know its tight in there, but I don't think the pan an be dropped and rod bearing clearances be checked due to heavy mains webbing in the case halves.

There are only 4 rods, this is not a V8,
We used to do this all the time for cheap in the 1970's. Someone would come in with a rod knock we would just lift the motor drop the pan and pull all the caps off. Find the bad one and polish the journal with crocus cloth and slap in new shells, plastigauge it and button her back up.

Another Item of interest is the EJ have full floating wrist pins. This is how you can get a split case motor back together.

They also have very short slipper skirted pistons. and given the crank throw is less then 1,5 inches, they ten to cock and rattle a bit.

These Subaru have the old magic Chevy and Ford "302" 4" bore x 3 " stroke formula for making power.
Too bad about the rod knock. these motors always like a near 40 grade oil to live the 5W30 is the lightest recommendation on their oil selection chart.

CAFE kills motors again. And Owner is left penniless.
 
Last edited:
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232
Location
New Bedford, MA
IMO it seems like this person is just posting just for the sake of posting.
Which oil do I use? Waits for comments
Im in the oil aisle! Waits for comments.
I’ve selected my oil? Waits for people to ask which oil, then what filter.
-He seems more knowledgeable than he lets on to.
-maybe I’m wrong and if so sorry, but it seems like he is trying to see how long a thread he can get
 
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New Bedford, MA
Yay! Its Friday. And I just got paid...

Time to go buy some oil!

My oil is as black as a thousand black holes. I been doing a partial oil change all this week. (about a quart a day. Just because I can and just because of boredom. Also happy I got my drain bolt loose.) Car is a Subaru EJ25 non-Turbo with an auto trans.

The latest is, the oil pressure light will flicker for about a second (not more than two) on start-up then go out. Will run perfect all day, and only makes a noise when the light is flickering. It is for this reason I suspect "partially clogged pick-up tube."

My oil is black after every trip, I believe I may have loosened up some sludge or at least begun some cleaning with a lot of new oil through it this month. I did a running oil change, of sorts, with my filter changes and subsequent oil additions. Now the level is right.

My first inclanation is to buy Supertech 5W-30, Conventional or Full Synthetic I'm not sure it would really matter... And maybe a Fram filter. But, what would you all suggest?
How many miles on car since no one asked? What is your commute since no one asked?

you said yourself “I’m not sure it would really matter which oil”
 
Messages
25,407
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
O.k. I'm here. I've owned nine subarus over 35 years from a Justy three cylinder commuter to an SVX sixer high speed highway cruiser
I haven't got the whole story, why are you trying to clean up the engine? Did you just buy a car that was abused?
Is the engine making noise? You should have much to clean up. These engine are super easy on oil.

I Just got a used Outback with an EJ It's got rod knock or collapsed piston skirt,
I know its tight in there, but I don't think the pan an be dropped and rod bearing clearances be checked due to heavy mains webbing in the case halves.

There are only 4 rods, this is not a V8,
We used to do this all the time for cheap in the 1970's. Someone would come in with a rod knock we would just lift the motor drop the pan and pull all the caps off. Find the bad one and polish the journal with crocus cloth and slap in new shells, plastigauge it and button her back up.

Another Item of interest is the EJ have full floating wrist pins. This is how you can get a split case motor back together.

They also have very short slipper skirted pistons. and given the crank throw is less then 1,5 inches, they ten to cock and rattle a bit.

These Subaru have the old magic Chevy and Ford "302" 4" bore x 3 " stroke formula for making power.
Too bad about the rod knock. these motors always like a near 40 grade oil to live the 5W30 is the lightest recommendation on their oil selection chart.

CAFE kills motors again. And Owner is left pennyless.

You have to split the cases to get the rod bearing out. When I do these I get all new rods and a nitrided new Subi crank if the original is beat up with King coated bearings (none of it is too expensive), new pistons/rings and a 12mm oil pump. The bottom end is then much better than original and all new.
 
Messages
15,671
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
You have to split the cases to get the rod bearing out. When I do these I get all new rods and a nitrided new Subi crank if the original is beat up with King coated bearings (none of it is too expensive), new pistons/rings and a 12mm oil pump. The bottom end is then much better than original and all new.
Have you seen any unusual wear patterns on the bottoms of the skirts on the thrust side?
And Why do you feel these are eating rod bearings? Bad crank prep like on the WRX fiasco over a decade ago?
Thanks Trav
 

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Ontario, Canada
A common cause of flickering oil light on these engines is the oil pump plate loosens on the back of the pump, not a bad job and the screws should be secured with loctite in when doing the timing belt.
These engine are prone to rod knock and oil leaking from the heads as they age and I wouldn't recommend running any sort of solvent through it especially in this case.

The split cases are sealed with RTV and it does not tolerate strong solvents or esters very well, dino, HDEO, PAO or group III synthetics with no aftermarket additives is the best way to go.
And this is exactly why I tagged you. Thank you for your expertise as always. One definitely has to be careful with solvents and you've clearly illustrated why they are not a good idea in this application.
 
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16,384
Location
...
IMO it seems like this person is just posting just for the sake of posting.
Which oil do I use? Waits for comments
Im in the oil aisle! Waits for comments.
I’ve selected my oil? Waits for people to ask which oil, then what filter.
-He seems more knowledgeable than he lets on to.
-maybe I’m wrong and if so sorry, but it seems like he is trying to see how long a thread he can get


The OP is playing everyone like a well used Stradivarius. 🎻
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
IMO it seems like this person is just posting just for the sake of posting.
Which oil do I use? Waits for comments
Im in the oil aisle! Waits for comments.
I’ve selected my oil? Waits for people to ask which oil, then what filter.
-He seems more knowledgeable than he lets on to.
-maybe I’m wrong and if so sorry, but it seems like he is trying to see how long a thread he can get

If you don't want to comment you don't have to?? Let's explore the topic??
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
The OP is playing everyone like a well used Stradivarius. 🎻
How many miles on car since no one asked? What is your commute since no one asked?

you said yourself “I’m not sure it would really matter which oil”

Now you're suddenly interested? Which one is it?

Car has a little more than 163,900 miles now, I was just out driving it and may go do so again.

The commute is all over the place.

5W-40. Let me go check my level and I'll seriously consider that as a top-off oil.

How long do you think it will take for new oil to do some cleaning? As solvents appear not to be a good idea?


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