I get to choose a "cleaning" oil for my Subaru EJ today. What should I choose?

Messages
25,407
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Have you seen any unusual wear patterns on the bottoms of the skirts on the thrust side?
And Why do you feel these are eating rod bearings? Bad crank prep like on the WRX fiasco over a decade ago?
Thanks Trav

Only on the manual transmission ones but its not like I do these everyday either. I was using short blocks but decided to do them myself when the cost of brand new H beam rods, nitride crank and good pistons cost about the same or less but the parts are much better and more reliable than stock.

Poor rod/bearing build quality (they have been improved and are fine for a stock rebuild), clearances too great, running low on oil (it doesn't have to run out just low) and 5w30 engine oil are the main culprits. Use a xw40 in these engines.
Still the WRX factor is there, there has been numerous reports of bad cranks in all the EJ 25 engines.

Other possibilities are the oil pump screws coming loose on the rear, bad pickup and over application of RTV. Do not use RTV on a Subi pump use an anaerobic sealer instead, if you do then be extremely careful not to get anywhere near where it could get into an oil passage ditto assembling the case halves, do not get any in the main bearing area.
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
Only on the manual transmission ones but its not like I do these everyday either. I was using short blocks but decided to do them myself when the cost of brand new H beam rods, nitride crank and good pistons cost about the same or less but the parts are much better and more reliable than stock.

Poor rod/bearing build quality (they have been improved and are fine for a stock rebuild), clearances too great, running low on oil (it doesn't have to run out just low) and 5w30 engine oil are the main culprits. Use a xw40 in these engines.
Still the WRX factor is there, there has been numerous reports of bad cranks in all the EJ 25 engines.

Other possibilities are the oil pump screws coming loose on the rear, bad pickup and over application of RTV. Do not use RTV on a Subi pump use an anaerobic sealer instead, if you do then be extremely careful not to get anywhere near where it could get into an oil passage ditto assembling the case halves, do not get any in the main bearing area.

Trav, when you talk about oil pump screws coming loose at the rear. Is that an engine out, drop the pan job? I have been told taking an engine out (or having it taken out) is easy.

Here is a photo of the oil level I achieved. I did go with the Supertech 5W-30 Full Synthetic. It can be hard to see but this angle caught the light. (Yes that's the oil I just put in.)

Ne7td3k.jpg
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
How long have you owned the car?

What IS the car?

What was your last OCI?

What are you trying to clean up?

Had the car since this year.

Its a 2nd Gen Subaru Outback EJ251.

This is the car's first full OCI since I got it.. only been using it a couple months.

Trying to clean up whatever is causing the oil flicker light on both cold and now sometimes hot (if more than 5or 10 minutes) start-up.

Am about to go drive it now.
 
Messages
25,407
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Trav, when you talk about oil pump screws coming loose at the rear. Is that an engine out, drop the pan job? I have been told taking an engine out (or having it taken out) is easy.

Here is a photo of the oil level I achieved. I did go with the Supertech 5W-30 Full Synthetic. It can be hard to see but this angle caught the light. (Yes that's the oil I just put in.)

Ne7td3k.jpg

No, the engine does not have to come out it is behind the timing belt right in the middle on your engine.
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
No, the engine does not have to come out it is behind the timing belt right in the middle on your engine.

Thank you, Trav.

Trav, if that indeed loosened up..

1. Wouldn't I have an oil leak?

2. Would it make a rattling/knocking sound only at very high RPMs and only sometimes, perhaps also initial start-up?
 
Messages
25,407
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
No oil leak, the rear plate is behind the gasket. It could certainly make noise if it in fact was loose. When doing a timing belt on these it is a good idea to pop the pump and check these screws and at the same time put some loctite on them.

subaru-oem 2.jpg
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
No oil leak, the rear plate is behind the gasket. It could certainly make noise if it in fact was loose. When doing a timing belt on these it is a good idea to pop the pump and check these screws and at the same time put some loctite on them.

View attachment 35961

I think it's time for me to get a "spare car" while I get a nice timing belt, water pump, oil pump tighten. (probably what that is. Seems to make sense)

This is going very well.
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
This is the color of the brand new oil I put in after I drove the car about 200 miles today. The oil I changed yesterday. And filter.

I pulled the dipstick and wiped the oil onto the paper towel.

adDpaRl.jpg

qFrUEsl.jpg
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
One thing I am curious about, and I don't know if it is just me or just this car or just a Boxer engine or what.. Every time I pull the dipstick, that first pull, it looks like there is more oil in the engine than I put in.

I have to let it cool all the way down and wipe it like three times to see an actual level. Most cars, it doesn't seem to take as long or as many wipes... Strange ?

Even in taking that sample, the oil was waaay high on the dipstick. I verified it was just below the F mark and hole before I left. I wonder if that means anything.

Or if it just has to cool and everything will be fine.. I'm about to go look again, turned it off an hour ago.
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
Interestingly.. in the couple/few hundred miles of driving already.. the sound has been dramatically reduced, first start this morning it barely did it at all.

This is the color of the oil, as I checked the level this morning. This is the oil that went in Friday night.

mosgxY6.jpg
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
From the dipstick, to the paper towel. Two minutes ago.

Will keep an eye to see if the level "increases" by itself after a full cycle of. Drive the car to work tomorrow, work, drive home, let car 100% cool, check in morning before work.

Pull dipstick, wipe dipstick, reinsert, check level reading vs what I record it as this morning.. again, dramatically reduced sound this morning. Let's see if that holds.

Supertech 5W-30 FS over ~250 miles.

ZRRumHJ.jpg
 
Messages
4,820
Location
South Carolina
Yay! Its Friday. And I just got paid...

Time to go buy some oil!

My oil is as black as a thousand black holes. I been doing a partial oil change all this week. (about a quart a day. Just because I can and just because of boredom. Also happy I got my drain bolt loose.) Car is a Subaru EJ25 non-Turbo with an auto trans.

The latest is, the oil pressure light will flicker for about a second (not more than two) on start-up then go out. Will run perfect all day, and only makes a noise when the light is flickering. It is for this reason I suspect "partially clogged pick-up tube."

My oil is black after every trip, I believe I may have loosened up some sludge or at least begun some cleaning with a lot of new oil through it this month. I did a running oil change, of sorts, with my filter changes and subsequent oil additions. Now the level is right.

My first inclanation is to buy Supertech 5W-30, Conventional or Full Synthetic I'm not sure it would really matter... And maybe a Fram filter. But, what would you all suggest?
Any dual rated HDEO if you want good cleaning action. CJ4/SN oil or CK/SN ect
Lots of detergent in diesel rated oil.
 
Messages
1,178
Location
Berks County/Pa.
One thing I am curious about, and I don't know if it is just me or just this car or just a Boxer engine or what.. Every time I pull the dipstick, that first pull, it looks like there is more oil in the engine than I put in.

I have to let it cool all the way down and wipe it like three times to see an actual level. Most cars, it doesn't seem to take as long or as many wipes... Strange ?

Even in taking that sample, the oil was waaay high on the dipstick. I verified it was just below the F mark and hole before I left. I wonder if that means anything.

Or if it just has to cool and everything will be fine.. I'm about to go look again, turned it off an hour ago.
Your one of those __cks that like to hear them selves talk dont you!!!! Beat the dead horse!!!
 

JT20

Thread starter
Messages
4,710
Did you ever specify what the noise was exactly.

No, all and only speculation. I know I just started it after an hour or so (engine still warm) and it did it again. I'll go start it after this post and it probably won't. It is so weird.

It sems I just have to live with it, until I can purchase a spare car and drop this one off for water pump/timing belt and mention to them, "Oh, and check out the noise it makes when you first start it up (and then won't if you turn it off and then turn it on again.)" Then they can tell me what it is.

Here is my oil level with the newly selected oil. What is that notch above the "F"? This after the car sat for about an hour.

L2dZfiu.jpg

afGcNTN.jpg
 
Messages
15,671
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I think it's time for me to get a "spare car" while I get a nice timing belt, water pump, oil pump tighten. (probably what that is. Seems to make sense)

This is going very well.
What you are driving is a "spare car" :)

The subaru dipstick are flaky and hard to get a consistent read.
The notch above the top hole is for FULL HOT level; Never EVER go above this.

Make sure you are on level ground you a slight tilt ( @Roll more than pitch) will make the difference between 1/3 qt low and a 1/3 qt over reading.

You may just be cleaning up carbon and mineral deposits from years of conservative driving.

If you have no - belt record of service, then get to that ASAP.
You need the major idler replaced too. They fall apart.
Surprised yours is running, it must have been serviced.
There are kits that include everything.
Hard pa[rt is getting the plastic covers off - the small capscrew fasteners are usually corroded into the aluminum.

aa142  idler.jpg
 
Top