Hyundai 2.4L MPI

[The Lube Guy]

The dealer tech also told me on two separate occasions, to use genuine Hyundai filters, so I bought one while I was there. An apprentice who had just recently replaced an engine with almost 285000k kilometers, all while Hyundai covered the expenses, joined in the conversation too. He added that the engines are replaced in consultation and at the discretion of the inspecting technician. I took that as if the engine does not show signs of neglect, Hyundai will cover the cost.

I'm considering a synthetic CK-4 diesel oil which is better suited at handling soot than oil for gasoline engines; again, if I keep it.

Why not just use a high quality PCMO motor oil? CK-4 oil is designed for Diesel engines with 10+ gallons of sump capacity. That's how it deals with soot, not because there's anything special about it. If anything, most CK-4 oils are formulated to be as cost effective to produce as possible. Check this out: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...i-foam-in-gear-oil.379854/page-7#post-6811738

Run something like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and install a oil catch can, and use CRC GDI Valve Cleaner before you install the catch can. Check out this video, although not great, it sums things up nicely:



Do this, and your Hyundai will last for a very long time.

 

[jakeuten]

What about Mazda?

Hush. We're keeping that reliability secret (Non-C/D and non-turbocharged Sky-G) to keep used prices down.

 

[GSCJR]

install a oil catch can

Is there one you recommend? The one in the video you linked?

 

[The Lube Guy]

Is there one you recommend? The one in the video you linked?

If you want a turnkey solution that you don't spend too much time on, then ADDW1: https://www.addw1.com/products/hyun...oil-catch-can-kit-v3-2013-2019-3rd-generation

They also have a V3.3, for $329, with an extra port. I don't believe it's worth it at all.

If you're handy and can install it yourself, here you go:

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQ9VC1KZ

2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086HB4T6Z

 

[someonesomewhere]

Hush. We're keeping that reliability secret (Non-C/D and non-turbocharged Sky-G) to keep used prices down.

From recent research, this isn't working. Lol. I very much appreciate how Mazda is the only manufacturer still using old-school(ish) non-CVT automatic transmissions. Too many horror stories among the various manufacturers and their various CVT iterations for me to be comfortable owning one.

Better deals to be had with Mazdas a few years old than Toyota or Honda, for sure. Still expensive for a used car.

Great deals brand new, though. The Mazda3, specifically. And the new MX-5 (Miatas) are beautiful cars, especially in Soul Red Metallic.

Back to my 07 Mazda3 with me.

 

[SHOZ]

Avoid made in USA Hyundai motors.

 

[GSCJR]

After a few months of ownership, I sold the Santa Fe to a friend. While in storage, I never actually drove it, as I was making upgrades to prepare it to pass an inspection regardless. I replaced the tires, rear brake pads and caliper pistons, air filter and gave it an oil change with STS 5w-40 and a genuine Hyundai oil filter. He needed a vehicle for his daughter under short notice and with my Subaru still going strong, I decided not to keep it for myself. Not to jeopardize our friendship, I also included a 90 warranty on the vehicle.

 

[1 SX]

I would like to clear up a little information regarding the 2.4L.

The 2.4L has been around for near 2 decades and even is part of the "world engine" program with Mitsu / Chrys.

BUT. Once direct injection was introduced.. reliability absolutely tanked.

To have both the Korean made 2.4L MPI and American made 2.4 DI in the stable for many years, my observation is this:

MPI: rock solid reliable
DI: buy that extended warranty.

I personally and honestly do not believe the "metal fragments" inside of the oil block, passageway etc. or whatever excuse was written up and sent out by the number pushers..

It appears to me this is the actual cause of 99% of the 2.4L direct injected catastrophes is Fuel Dilution

Hear me out. - a faulty but still acceptable performing ( in the computers eyes) DI fuel pump. over a couple thousand miles the oil in the crank case gets so saturated with fuel that the oil itself will thin out and disappear. compounded by the 7500 miles suggested oil changes using a 5W20 at best and these are the results. Also would explain why even after an engine replacement the motor may blow again, and around the same mileage because the actual source of problem was not addressed or fixed.


I

 

[GSCJR]

After changing the oil (it was due according to the windshield sticker), I reduced the on-board maintenance reminder to the lowest possible setting, which is 6k km/6 months. The oil coming out was pitch black and looked/smelled fuel diluted.