How many miles do you want to keep your vehicles, expect your vehicles to last. (if currently under 100K)

9 yo, ‘14 Jeep GC. 84,000 miles. Most trouble free vehicle I’ve owned in all my 70 years. Despite living in Michigan, there’s no body rust and it looks great underneath. Looks and drives like new. I bought a Mopar MaxCare lifetime extended warranty when it was new, but have used it only once for an oil pressure sensor. I don’t see why I I can’t get another 9 years and use some more of the extended warranty. I’m hoping I have as good a luck with with the ‘22 GC I bought in July.
 
I like pizza, bacon cheese burgers, chicken quesadillas, but if I had any one of them everyday for a month, I'd get pretty tired of them. Same with cars. Unless it's some exotic or classic car, those that say they want to drive them 20 years or 200,000 miles, probably view cars as appliances.
Or you really like the car. I really liked my 2000 BMW 528i 5MT M-sport but after 21 years you're on borrowed time.
 
We had plans to take my work 2016 F150 to 200,000 and assess, but at 172,000 miles it needed $6000 in repairs (exhaust manifold s etc. common to the 3.5 ecoboost)

My 14 Chrysler T&C has 104k miles and I plan to take it to 200k if possible, or when the kids stop being so messy. I’ll never put those tornadoes in a newer vehicle. I regularly clean it up to a very clean status.

I bought my Rogue and plan on taking it to 150/160k, as our old one is at that now and still going strong. I may keep it longer. I’ve toyed with selling it and getting an older car to get rid of the payment, but I bought it to put a low mile car in our fleet to hedge against problems and give me a good car to commute in.

My daughters 09 Camry with 235k miles will be annually assessed and maintained for 300k miles.

The Wrangler is a toy and can be sold at any moment, though it probably won’t be. I like it too much!
 
1. Post the price as firm, but be realistic. No you're not getting $1200 for a non-driving 02 Explorer no matter how nice it looks, but $750 firm is realistic if the engine still runs vs. $200 from a scraper.
2. State CASH ONLY, no checks, no Western Union, no Paypal, no apps.
3. Include as many photos as the site provides, 20-24 Facebook-Craigslist
4. Do not put your phone number or email in the ad, use the Craigslist relay service or Facebook messaging.
5. Put in the ad, "I won't finance or take payments. No scammers or spammers. I don't need help selling it. I won't reply to your alternate email. Don't ask me to text you."
Scrap yards are offering $450-$550 for cars right now, running or not. I was glad to take that for my kid’s 2001 Jeep Liberty, with rotted doors and fenders, no AC, bald tires, bad brakes, leaking roof, water damage (and much more). For a lot of folks, if they own a clunker right now, they’re going to get themselves $500 bucks for it, and a free tow out of your yard.

Beats the hustle of listing a scraper on Marketplace and dealing with people low balling you (because they will, even if the price is firm). Or having people not show up, or not bring money, or ask you to become their personal psychiatrist in your driveway (as you wanted the conversation to end an hour ago, and get back into your house). I’m not saying I don’t sell vehicles on Craigslist or Marketplace, but it has to be worth more than a couple hundred bucks for me. Just my opinion.

I do have some interesting car selling stories...

One was be virtue of “Vlad” the Russian diplomat from NY. Called on a Friday night, wanted to come by and pay cash for my corvette. I’m not doing that, Vlad. So, he comes on a Sunday afternoon, drives five hours to my town and we meet at the police station (Because Vlad sounds questionable to me). We negotiated the price BEFORE Vlad made the trip - as it was the absolute lowest I was willing to go, no matter what - Vlad took my corvette for a test drive, with me in the passenger seat, telling me how he buys vettes, turbo charges them, fixes them up and flips them. Can make a nice 2-3 thousand profit. That’s nice, I’m happy for Vlad.

Vlad also started beating on my car, doing 90 in a 40 mph zone. And then he tells me my clutch pedal is a little low and he’d need a clutch put into it. I tell him, pull over, I’m driving back...that I’ve never beat the tar out of my car like he is doing right now. I drive back. He looks the car over again. Immediately opens the hood and points at my harmonic balancer. It wobbles. He says. It’s common, it’s a $500 dollar repair if he does it himself. He low balls me. I ask him if he’s hungry, and he says yes. I suggest to him to get a bite to eat, because it’s going to be a long five hour drive back to NY for him on an empty stomach with no corvette. And he left. I was hungry too. I sold that corvette one week later for $2,000 more than I was going to sell it to Vlad. I don’t hate selling cars, but I don’t love it either.
 
1. Post the price as firm, but be realistic. No you're not getting $1200 for a non-driving 02 Explorer no matter how nice it looks, but $750 firm is realistic if the engine still runs vs. $200 from a scraper.
2. State CASH ONLY, no checks, no Western Union, no Paypal, no apps.
3. Include as many photos as the site provides, 20-24 Facebook-Craigslist
4. Do not put your phone number or email in the ad, use the Craigslist relay service or Facebook messaging.
5. Put in the ad, "I won't finance or take payments. No scammers or spammers. I don't need help selling it. I won't reply to your alternate email. Don't ask me to text you."
I appreciate your post. I have done all this, and I will add I listed EVERYTHING that was wrong, including many things that most people would never find or notice,

Still everyone seems to want to be Rick from Pawn stars. Maybe its a Southern thing.

"this is broken",
me- "yep, did you read the add, that's listed"
"will you take 20% less, its not worth what your asking"
me - "price if firm, did you read the add"
"Not worth it"
me " if its not worth it why did you come?"
 
Another thing, why do some people scrap them after they break down? Somebody may repair it on the cheap or use it for parts, and you would get more than scrap price.

I in late 2020 I scrapped a 1995 Ford Escort that had 265K miles on it that had a bad transmission. It had a lot else wrong with it, and rust holes, water intrusion issues, body damage, bald tires, clicking axles, etc. I also had issues with the HVAC blower box that would have required pulling the dash to repair. Would you have paid me more than the $290 I got from Crazy Rays / LKQ ???
 
I in late 2020 I scrapped a 1995 Ford Escort that had 265K miles on it that had a bad transmission. It had a lot else wrong with it, and rust holes, water intrusion issues, body damage, bald tires, clicking axles, etc. I also had issues with the HVAC blower box that would have required pulling the dash to repair. Would you have paid me more than the $290 I got from Crazy Rays / LKQ ???
If I could have gotten $682 for the cat like I did for my 2000, I would.
 
Beats the hustle of listing a scraper on Marketplace and dealing with people low balling you (because they will, even if the price is firm). Or having people not show up, or not bring money, or ask you to become their personal psychiatrist in your driveway (as you wanted the conversation to end an hour ago, and get back into your house). I’m not saying I don’t sell vehicles on Craigslist or Marketplace, but it has to be worth more than a couple hundred bucks for me. Just my opinion.
Thank you!
 
An old Farmer told me long ago," Repairs are cheaper than payments." (Remember this is a Generalization...)
I live by," The second 100,000 miles are cheaper than the first." Although 3 years ago I bought a 2 y/o Cruze with 2500 miles on it and have enjoyed NOT fixing anything for the last 77,500 miles/ 3 &1/2 years. The monthly payment is still there, even though the repair bill is not.
 
An old Farmer told me long ago," Repairs are cheaper than payments." (Remember this is a Generalization...)
I live by," The second 100,000 miles are cheaper than the first." Although 3 years ago I bought a 2 y/o Cruze with 2500 miles on it and have enjoyed NOT fixing anything for the last 77,500 miles/ 3 &1/2 years. The monthly payment is still there, even though the repair bill is not.
You can have a car payment and reliability. OR-no payment and in the case of ultra high mile vehicles many buy (cheap)on here-questionable reliability and repairs.

You pick! I'm not going to the middle of no where Wyoming, Montana, etc. in a 200,000 mile vehicle-it's not happening.
 
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