High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner

Current (synthetic and petroleum oils) are much better than most people understand. There's little reason to buy a high grade oil, then only drive short hops, never getting sump temps up to a range that can utilize that oil. That's evident looking at whatever type deposits you end up with in spite of every effort to use the best lube you can buy.
The oil companies love this line of thinking. pc
 
Hi , I need some help from HPL.
I suspect my turbo drain is semi clogged with coked oil. Car is 89 Toyota Soarer, the semi clogged drains occured well before i own it. I dont want take the turbos apart . I wanted to use Auto-RX Plus because I heard good things about it, but AUTO-RX are not responding to my queries by email,facebook , they dont even list a phone number.
So I want to try HPL Engine Cleaner .
Could you ship the EC overseas ?

My engine runs 4L of oil, how much EC should I put in. It is now 3000km on my current run of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.
Could I add EC to the current fill and then drain it another 2000km ?
Can it clean turbo lines ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
alcyon said:
Hi , I need some help from HPL.
I suspect my turbo drain is semi clogged with coked oil. Car is 89 Toyota Soarer, the semi clogged drains occured well before i own it. I dont want take the turbos apart . I wanted to use Auto-RX Plus because I heard good things about it, but AUTO-RX are not responding to my queries by email,facebook , they dont even list a phone number.
So I want to try HPL Engine Cleaner .
Could you ship the EC overseas ?

My engine runs 4L of oil, how much EC should I put in. It is now 3000km on my current run of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.
Could I add EC to the current fill and then drain it another 2000km ?
Can it clean turbo lines ?
Click to expand...

Why not run liqui moly engine flush?
 
High Performance Lubricants said:
It really does not matter. Ideally adding the cleaner to an existing oil is best so we can clean without spending money on a fresh charge of oil. The exception of course would be if there is knowledge of a lot of deposits in the engine where over saturating the dispersant package in the used oil may be an issue.
Click to expand...
So this product is made to clean an engine?

And from the remark above, it would seem that the potential for the product to work to a greater level of effectiveness, adding the product with fresh oil at a changeout would be preferred?
 
burbguy82 said:
So this product is made to clean an engine?

And from the remark above, it would seem that the potential for the product to work to a greater level of effectiveness, adding the product with fresh oil at a changeout would be preferred?
Click to expand...
The cleaner is made as an engine cleaning full oil, not an add and dump thing like BG EPR, GUNK or other. The esters and AN's in it will slowly dissolve carbon and other sludge. The concern for me on used oil and the statement above is that the regular oil additive packs may be used up and not able to keep dissolving and suspended and send to filter if done at the end. They don't know what quality oil is in your vehicle currently.

HPL recommends 2k for it and at least a filter swap if there are concerns on being dirty. Many have used it longer (I have) but we were pretty confident on motor already being clean. I did some 2k filter swaps in 3 vehicles and cut them open, my pictures are posted from my kids CRV and Forte.

The EC30/40 is really made as a "prep" to get rid of stuff before switching to full HPL oil which has more cleaning ability. The full oil may be too aggressive to start on an older motor and clean too much, too fast.

Think of all the positive stuff and recommended use with the new Valvoline Restore and Protect and the people putting it down due to clogged filters from serious lack of previous maintenance. Also the ones that say they saw no difference looking through oil cap in 500 miles. Not how it is designed to work.

I'm a fan of the HPL products and will use what I can budget. I saw what the EC30 did to my cars that I thought were already pretty clean. I did a couple rounds based on initial use and filter C&P's.
 
Sequoiasoon said:
The cleaner is made as an engine cleaning full oil, not an add and dump thing like BG EPR, GUNK or other. The esters and AN's in it will slowly dissolve carbon and other sludge. The concern for me on used oil and the statement above is that the regular oil additive packs may be used up and not able to keep dissolving and suspended and send to filter if done at the end. They don't know what quality oil is in your vehicle currently.

HPL recommends 2k for it and at least a filter swap if there are concerns on being dirty. Many have used it longer (I have) but we were pretty confident on motor already being clean. I did some 2k filter swaps in 3 vehicles and cut them open, my pictures are posted from my kids CRV and Forte.

The EC30/40 is really made as a "prep" to get rid of stuff before switching to full HPL oil which has more cleaning ability. The full oil may be too aggressive to start on an older motor and clean too much, too fast.

Think of all the positive stuff and recommended use with the new Valvoline Restore and Protect and the people putting it down due to clogged filters from serious lack of previous maintenance. Also the ones that say they saw no difference looking through oil cap in 500 miles. Not how it is designed to work.

I'm a fan of the HPL products and will use what I can budget. I saw what the EC30 did to my cars that I thought were already pretty clean. I did a couple rounds based on initial use and filter C&P's.
Click to expand...
So if you have a 6 qt sump, you would add 6 quarts of this?
 
burbguy82 said:
So this product is made to clean an engine?

And from the remark above, it would seem that the potential for the product to work to a greater level of effectiveness, adding the product with fresh oil at a changeout would be preferred?
Click to expand...
I don’t see how effectiveness would be impacted much by the oil to which it was added.

The intention was that you would substitute the one quart of engine cleaner for a quart of your regular oil at the next change and run it for the entire OCI.

Of note - this is less effective than a crankcase full of HPL oil itself. The EC is intended as an intermediary step, to begin cleaning at a slower rate.

Did you see the instructions for its use at the beginning of the thread?
 
burbguy82 said:
So if you have a 6 qt sump, you would add 6 quarts of this?
Click to expand...
Nope as @Astro14 said. 1 quart in place of a regular quart. Change filter at 2k if concerns or to monitor if you cut them apart.

My cars take less so I actually started with the 3/4 of a quart to have the recommended ratio and changed my filters at 2k as recommended until I saw my results. After that I had no issues with a full quart and now using a quart of their regular PCMO in the same manner for full OCI and no filter swap.

That was after confirming how it is in MY vehicles and how they were maintained prior. YMMV.
 
Astro14 said:
The intention was that you would substitute the one quart of engine cleaner for a quart of your regular oil at the next change and run it for the entire OCI.
Click to expand...
That is what i understood in the instruction advertisement on the first page, but started to read the posts and it seemed that some thought otherwise. Really more of a leading question really.
Astro14 said:
Did you see the instructions for its use at the beginning of the thread?
Click to expand...
Yes. I could see it being more effective at the beginning of an interval for sure as there would be less contamination to compete with. It seems that some have added this long after the OCI, which would be in error as I understand.
 
Sequoiasoon said:
The cleaner is made as an engine cleaning full oil, not an add and dump thing like BG EPR, GUNK or other. The esters and AN's in it will slowly dissolve carbon and other sludge. The concern for me on used oil and the statement above is that the regular oil additive packs may be used up and not able to keep dissolving and suspended and send to filter if done at the end. They don't know what quality oil is in your vehicle currently.
Click to expand...
HPL Engine Cleaner has it's own additive package to contribute to whatever oil is already in the engine so no worries there.
 
MolaKule said:
HPL Engine Cleaner has it's own additive package to contribute to whatever oil is already in the engine so no worries there.
Click to expand...
I recently bought an old 6.2 diesel truck. Runs like a top. I know that the oil used was cc\sf oil. The previous owner used typical 15w40 diesel oil. It does not blacken the oil ultra fast like most diesels, which would lead me to believe that the engine is pretty clean. It is NA of course. Close to 24k miles now.

I am kind of on the fence about messing with it, just use good modern oil and call it good........

Would you see any benefit in using this product?
 
burbguy82 said:
I recently bought an old 6.2 diesel truck. Runs like a top. I know that the oil used was cc\sf oil. The previous owner used typical 15w40 diesel oil. It does not blacken the oil ultra fast like most diesels, which would lead me to believe that the engine is pretty clean. It is NA of course. Close to 24k miles now.

I am kind of on the fence about messing with it, just use good modern oil and call it good........

Would you see any benefit in using this product?
Click to expand...
Yes, as you would be surprized what kind of gunk lurks in the nooks and crannies of an engine.
 
MolaKule said:
Yes, as you would be surprized what kind of gunk lurks in the nooks and crannies of an engine.
Click to expand...
Other than clogging a filter potentially, do you envision and adverse conditions being created? Or just all kitties and puppy dogs and ice creams?
 
Bummer !
1731633696800.webp

Auto RX not responding, HPL cannot send to me, looks like I need to buy Rislone from ebay.
 
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