Engine Failure - Toyota 4Runner V6 - Warranty

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The key here, is that it says "per F.T.S.," which I assume means in accordance with the instructions given by Field Technical Service? If so, then the tech is simply doing what the experts at the Toyota technical hotline is telling him.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Trav said:
Quote:
Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S.
I'm sure that this engine uses different thickness buckets to adjust the valve clearance. Since they did a valve job on the heads they needed new buckets. I'm thinking that roughing up the cams is a lot like honing a cylinder. The small scratches hold oil so that it gets proper lubrication during the first few minutes of running.



Correct....and those buckets caused the delay for an extra week. After the Tech assembled the top end with the buckets that were sent to him, he checked the clearances.....and they weren't spec on three of them. They had to reorder three of them. (I am glad he was being so particular.)

On my Suzuki bike, the shims on the bottom of the buckets are separate and I can change out the shims.....on this Toyota engine, the shims are a part of the whole bucket.
 
By the way, we put 54 miles on the 4Runner today and dumped the oil, poured in Castrol GTX 5w30 and screwed on a new filter (with a couple of super-strong magnets attached).

We kept the filter....as I want to cut it open as see what is on the inside.

While draining the oil, which looked brand new, a flashlight on the draining oil revealed a lot of metal sparkles.

Glad I dumped it.

We will run this stuff for 500 miles. And....I will cut into this filter as well. (will post pics eventually)
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
John, what oil are you going to use after you drain the GTX in 500 miles?


Johnny, I was able to pick up two of those $6 specials at Pep Boys on Black Friday....so I have two changes of Castrol GTX 5w30 and Purolator Filters.

So.....I plan to do another round of GTX for a 2,000 mile run.....then I will go to synthetic for 6 month/5,000 mile OCI's.

I am in a quandary, as what to go too. I am a little gun-shy to go back to a 20wt for this 4Runner (I know I shouldn't....but, the engine failed after three OCI's of 20wt). This is a very torquey engine that loves very low RPM's....so I think I will stay with a 30wt. I have 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)....and I am leaning heavily in that direction.

The other choice, which should make you very happy, Johnny..... is Yellow Bottle 5w30 SN. I really ought to save that GC for my Turbo Passat.
 
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
I really ought to save that GC for my Turbo Passat.

Smart move...

The type of oil would have nothing to do with a valve breaking, had to be a defective part or badly over revved...
 
Originally Posted By: BigJohn

I am in a quandary, as what to go too. I am a little gun-shy to go back to a 20wt for this 4Runner (I know I shouldn't....but, the engine failed after three OCI's of 20wt). This is a very torquey engine that loves very low RPM's....so I think I will stay with a 30wt. I have 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)....and I am leaning heavily in that direction.



I don't know if this will make you feel better, but in reading the post that included the details of the tear-down, I would say that the failure is absolutely not lubrication-related. A valve head broke off, fell in a cylinder, and when it got bashed between the piston and head it broke the connecting rod and lower end assembly. IT might be remotely possible that the valve got "sticky" in the guide and that initiated the whole sequence.... but that kind of problem isn't going to be aggravated by thinner oil. Probably the opposite, in fact. I suspect it was a defective valve that just finally gave way.

I wouldn't hesitate to use the recommended Xw20 oil. Now if the failure had begun with the bearing spinning, my inclination might be different.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BigJohn

....and the tech said that they only use Valvoline.


LOL I learned early on to take anything a tech working on my car told me with a grain of salt. Either they don't know, don't care, or lie. LOL. Unless they are Bitog members. IMO the Bitog member techs are guys I wish I could do business with, the fact that they frequent this board and share speaks volumes to me!


Why do so many on this board hate technicians so much? Very frustrating that so many are so critical. Yes there may be some techs out there with poor morals, ethics and a lack of talent. On a precentage basis there are likey just as many BITOGER'sof the same low moral standards, ethics and skill level on this site. I haven't been around here for very long but some of the attitudes really make me sick of visiting here some days.
 
I've complimented techs that frequent Bitog many times, they've been helpful to me, and I've thanked them. My comments are based on dealing and working with techs that lived up to a bad rep, and have no idea Bitog even exists. The guys here are class acts, and I wish they were closer to me. You'll also notice "LOL", which means I was having some fun.

If my comments make you sick, sorry.................When you get to my age you've been around the block more than once, and the comments come from real world experiences, and in my case from working in the industry as well. But you're right all techs aren't bad, I have two guys I do business with locally. Honest straight shooters, it took me decades to find them though. LOL
 
I wish we would have cut open the first filter to view......but here is the second filter. The first filter went for about 50 miles and this filter was on for the next 560 miles.

You might have to look really, really close....but the red arrows indicate metal flakes. This is a pic of about 20% of the filter material. The rest of the filter, had equal amounts of metal flakes. There were about five pretty big metal pieces stuck to the filter material.

Filter1.jpg


This is a BIG reason to make a couple of quick oil and filter changes on the break-in of a new engine.

The drained oil had a lot of metallic "sparklies" in it.

We will run this oil for the next 30 days and change it out....sync'ing up the 4Runner with the rest of the fleet for April 1st and Oct 1st oil changes.....6 months. I predict the boy will have another 1,000 miles on the T4R in 30 days.

I am still debating, which synthetic we will go with April 1st. I suspect we will end up using the 5 quart jug of Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic 5w20.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: Johnny
John, what oil are you going to use after you drain the GTX in 500 miles?


Johnny, I was able to pick up two of those $6 specials at Pep Boys on Black Friday....so I have two changes of Castrol GTX 5w30 and Purolator Filters.

So.....I plan to do another round of GTX for a 2,000 mile run.....then I will go to synthetic for 6 month/5,000 mile OCI's.

I am in a quandary, as what to go too. I am a little gun-shy to go back to a 20wt for this 4Runner (I know I shouldn't....but, the engine failed after three OCI's of 20wt). This is a very torquey engine that loves very low RPM's....so I think I will stay with a 30wt. I have 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)....and I am leaning heavily in that direction.

The other choice, which should make you very happy, Johnny..... is Yellow Bottle 5w30 SN. I really ought to save that GC for my Turbo Passat.


Wait a second......were you also using fuel in your truck when it broke?!?!?!

Don't use it again!!! AAAARRRRGGGGGGG....=0}

Good to know that things worked out.........
 
I've cut open plenty of new filters on cars. I'm not too impressed by that one, especially considering the early 50 mile run. Something is grinding(I hope not).

Stick with short OCI's and filter inspections until oil/filter are spotless. It may also be good to UOA the next few 1k, 2k, 3k, 5k... oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
I've cut open plenty of new filters on cars. I'm not too impressed by that one, especially considering the early 50 mile run. Something is grinding(I hope not).

Stick with short OCI's and filter inspections until oil/filter are spotless. It may also be good to UOA the next few 1k, 2k, 3k, 5k... oil changes.


I agree. Almost looks like left overs from the inital damage. Hope they pulled the block and had it cleaned vs repairing it in the truck and just changing the oil.
 
I agree NHHEMI- I didn't read through the entire thread again, but did they remove the heads,and deal with them. Then re-build the block, get a short block, or remove the block tank it and then rebuild it? If the block was rebuilt in the vehicle and not tanked then there could be metal remaining from the engine blowing the first time, and the work done to the block as part of the rebuild.

I would hope they at least removed and tanked the block if they rebuilt it, if not: short OCI's and a good strong magnet on the filter would be my suggestion.
 
Originally Posted By: turbochem
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: Johnny
John, what oil are you going to use after you drain the GTX in 500 miles?


Johnny, I was able to pick up two of those $6 specials at Pep Boys on Black Friday....so I have two changes of Castrol GTX 5w30 and Purolator Filters.

So.....I plan to do another round of GTX for a 2,000 mile run.....then I will go to synthetic for 6 month/5,000 mile OCI's.

I am in a quandary, as what to go too. I am a little gun-shy to go back to a 20wt for this 4Runner (I know I shouldn't....but, the engine failed after three OCI's of 20wt). This is a very torquey engine that loves very low RPM's....so I think I will stay with a 30wt. I have 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)....and I am leaning heavily in that direction.

The other choice, which should make you very happy, Johnny..... is Yellow Bottle 5w30 SN. I really ought to save that GC for my Turbo Passat.


Wait a second......were you also using fuel in your truck when it broke?!?!?!

Don't use it again!!! AAAARRRRGGGGGGG....=0}

Good to know that things worked out.........



Don't use what?????? Are you saying....don't use 20wt?

Whatever.....

I still have three jugs of Motorcraft 5w20 and don't have any issue using it in this 4Runner.

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Didn't the block have a hole in it? I think they replaced the entire short block, and reused the heads and other accessories.



Correct. A completely new block.....

We changed at 50 miles, 550 miles and as I mentioned another change in 30 days....probably 1,000 miles. Then I will do a 6 month OCI.

If there is a problem and the engine breaks.....it breaks and Toyota will get to do it again. Then....I will trade it in.

But this past weekend, we took the rig on a 250 mile round trip up in the mountains. Pulling passes and running at high rpms....the engine is strong and ran awesome.
 
Well.....despite the fact that the 4Runner was running really smooth and great, with a ton of power......

We traded her in today.

With the rising fuel costs and the boy headed off to Texas in the Fall for College....it was a really good decision. I also got a ton for a trade-in.....couple of thousand than I was expecting.

Stay with the recent theme....we went VW. A nice little 2010, lightly used Golf.

MEMO0001.jpg


A lot of memories with that 4Runner and I will miss her. Miss her, until I climb into the TDi Touareg.... no comparison.


.
 
I was like, looks like my car but I have a GTI.
smile.gif
Good choice. First VW I have owned since my family in the 70s and loving it so far. Probably own them from now on after owning Acuras, Nissan's, Toyota's.
 
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