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Even the US manual says this:
Oil for Rav 4
- Thread starter David2024
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The report won't really show much, but how is the gas mileage and the performance? Is gas milage = or > EPA ratings?
I would imagine it would be O.K given the progression from 16 to 20 grade isn't much of a leap.
Now trying a 5W30 ACEA A3/B4 MB229.5, VAG 505 might be more of a "drag" than really needed.
thanks, cheetah
This whole thing re: 0w8 or 0w16 has been hashed over for months in various threads that pop up every day it seems.
Same thing happened when 20 grade became de rigueur and a bunch of folks said, "I am sticking with 5W30!" lol.
-Arco
Same thing happened when 20 grade became de rigueur and a bunch of folks said, "I am sticking with 5W30!" lol.
-Arco
You do know certain 0W-16's are VERY capable. Amsoil 0W-16 won't splode your engine.
Nor will 0W-20
But I cut my own rug, I run 0W-30 in all our vehicles!
Nor will 0W-20
But I cut my own rug, I run 0W-30 in all our vehicles!
Another thick vs. thin, including manual requirements and whether it voids the warranty.
So.many.threads on this.
So.many.threads on this.
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stick with the 0w16 for warranty once you're out of warranty 0w20 is all you need. and I would keep to 5,000 mile oci's
Go old timer smarts and listen for unusual engine racket and dump (or amend) thin oil at the first hint of
"something's wrong". Engines tend to give notice if you listen.
In our household, I was a newbie to D.I. engines and my new Ford started mechanically knocking and clattering when fully warm after about 1800 miles in service. A later UOA showed that sump #2 sample also had a fair percentage of fuel and soot in it.
If I had jumped on it early I would not be driving around currently with a cement mixer full of rocks.
Too bad, it was a sweet motor.
"something's wrong". Engines tend to give notice if you listen.
In our household, I was a newbie to D.I. engines and my new Ford started mechanically knocking and clattering when fully warm after about 1800 miles in service. A later UOA showed that sump #2 sample also had a fair percentage of fuel and soot in it.
If I had jumped on it early I would not be driving around currently with a cement mixer full of rocks.
Too bad, it was a sweet motor.
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
Use any SP oil at 5K intervals and that Yota will go for a long time.
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Same. I think a high quality boutique 0w-30 is about as close to a do-it-all solution as you can get. The higher VI index doesn’t bother me with something like HPL or Amsoil.
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That is stretching it unless.... you are using Amsoil and Amsoil oil filters.
What I've been doing for years is changing the oil every 8000 miles, but I change the filter at 4000 miles and top it off.
It's best to use what Toyota says to use...
Gas Mileage is typically in the 35 MPG range, not a Hybrid. Performance is fine, its not a performance car but for daily driving its a great car. Only thing that I've done to the car is disable the Start-Stop system which drives me batty but that's personal preference.
Change your oil every 5K. Let your dealer do your Toyota Care free 10K oil change with filter change. Do your own 15K oil change. Let the dealer do your 2nd and final Toyota Care free 20K oil change with filter. Thats what I have been doing since new with my Rav4 Hybrid 2.5L.. I did change my first oil/filter at 901 miles. Have been using 0W16 and 0W20 every other for oil.
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Currently using 0W20 in our Toyota 2.5L still under factory warranty and plan to keep doing so. Also using the OEM filter and doing 5K miles OCI’s. No issue with 0W16 as it is allowed. It’s just that 0W20 is usually cheaper and easier to find.
J300 shows that 16 and 20 have a substantial overlap. The idea that using 20 would void the warranty or harm the engine is silly. Any oil between 7.0 to 8.2 KV100 is essentially identical as far as the engine is concerned.
J300 shows that 16 and 20 have a substantial overlap. The idea that using 20 would void the warranty or harm the engine is silly. Any oil between 7.0 to 8.2 KV100 is essentially identical as far as the engine is concerned.
As in the title of one of Shakespeare's plays: Much ado about nothing. I had that engine in a 2018 Camry, ran 0w-16 when Toyota did the first oil changes, and ran 0w20 when I did them. When going 10,000 miles between changes (which I didn't do all the time...sometimes I changed at about 5000 miles) the oil color was essentially the same golden brown no matter the mileage. Although I know COLOR is not a scientific value, but 10000 miles and no significant color change that wasn't noticed at 5000 miles is remarkable. It NEVER consumed significant oil during an OCI. Sometimes I drove it on 800 mile trips averaging in the low 70 mph range (which means I was going over 80 MUCH of the time). All the hand-wringing about "low tension rings" never showed up as problematic in the 111,000 miles we drove it. It's a well-designed engine that gave almost unbelievable efficiency (upper 30's, and as high at 53 mpg one trip where I keep the speed at the posted limits) and excellent power (200+ HP) for a non-boosted engine. Run whatever the heck you feel like running, change it periodically, and it will serve you well.
Arco,do you own toyotas vehicles that you run that oil in?
I've been changing the oil and filter in my wife's 2013 Rav4 XLT for many years using Mobil 1 0W-20 and a new STP filter. She's never had any issues with either. I change it every 6000 +/- miles and it makes her very happy.
I also change the oil and filter in my 2014 Chevy Silverado with M1 0W-20 and an AC oil filter. Everything works fine.
I also change the oil and filter in my 2014 Chevy Silverado with M1 0W-20 and an AC oil filter. Everything works fine.
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Please elaborate on your logic.
I have a 2020 Hybrid. Ive used 0w-20 its entire life (Bought new, 86,000 miles) and changed it every 6-7,500 miles. The oil doesnt even start to get dark until after 5,000 miles anyhow.
See my signature line below post#22 (note: signature lines now appear only on the first post of a thread)
The only engine in our household over the past decade that ran well on spec'd 0W20 without engine developing a knock or loud clatter was a 1.5L in my Honda Fit Sport.
On a possibly related note, Honda now has huge issue on their hands with their V6's pounding out con rod bearings - Can't tell you at this point if it is primarily a customer maintenance neglect, defect, or design/spec as the root cause. Yes, it's not a Toyota, lol.
FOX Business News/Reuters: "The U.S. government's highway safety agency is investigating as many as 1.4 million Honda and Acura vehicles after complaints that the engines could fail. (by my simple calculation, using warranty claims, only 0.1035% of this group is affected; outside of the PT warranty period, one would expect there could easily be many more vehicles impacted)
The probe by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration covers the 2016 through 2020 Honda Pilot and Acura MDX, as well as the 2018 through 2020 Honda Odyssey and Acura TLX. The 2017 through 2019 Honda Ridgeline is included in the probe too.
Documents on the website say that connecting rod bearings on vehicles with 3.5-liter V6 engines had the possibility of failing, which can lead to a complete engine failure. One owner even reported a vehicular accident.
A similar recall took place in 2023 when Honda recalled approximately 250,000 vehicles to fix similar issues.
The new inquiry does not include the same vehicles included in the 2023 recall.
There have been approximately 1,450 warranty claims so far according to the documents, but no reports of injury.
Dealers are in the process of inspecting the affected vehicles and repairing the issues as needed."
- Arco
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