The OLM will probably give you around 7,000 miles. Based on my experience with these engines, I believe 7,500 is a good place to call it a day, and 10,000 is definitely too far. It's not that the oils won't lubricate for 20,000 miles, is that the oils oxidize and get dirty. The winning move is to replace the oil while it still is working perfectly and has life left. These engines are pretty easy on oil, but they do get dirtier than most Honda engines.
20,000 mile oil & filter
- Thread starter MDXer
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Patman
Staff member
For doing 15k or more I would say that Amsoil SS or HPL would be the way to go. But if someone is going 10k I think there are a lot of oils that can be trusted. Personally I’d have no problem doing 10k with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, M1 EP, QSUP or Castrol Edge EP, just to quickly name a few off the top of my head. I’m still not sure about VRP for 10k intervals although I might just give it a try anyway because I like to live dangerously
Depends on your driving habits. Most of us fall under the severe category.
I think the "evidence" shows that with a superior oil like Amsoil, I agree, but off the shelf juice, i think driving conditions play the biggest part.
Do a 7 K mile oil sample and go from there.
I’m going to run hpl out to 10k which would be the 1st time I’ve ever ran any oil that far. The OLM says it’s fine and it’s just been way too cold to change it. The oil was black at 5k but everyone says hpl is the greatest thing going. We shall see. I’ve always been very comfy at 5k, so this is new for me.
seems to me if a oil is good and dark/black, and getting to a lower level , then time to change oil and filter as it's got a lot of stuff (dirt) in suspension, I usually don't use the OLM much , as its changed around 40- 50% of what it indicates or 5k,, 6 month which ever is first oci my trips consist of mainly round town short driving (sever) , oil is cheap compared to engines.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
What's your timetable on the oil filter? May first-time HPL users swap-out the filter half-way to a (hypothetical) 10k OCI.
Mine says 120K for "Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading" So it doesn't really say "never". At least they made it easy to change - comparatively.
Most of the stuff that discolors oil can’t be filtered out.
It’s a new car. It got HPL at 1k, then 6k and now I’ll run this out to 10k. Fram ultra is on the car now.
I’ve got 1 more oil change that I’m going to use and then switch over to torco. A 5 liter jug is perfect for my cars and the cost is about half. I ran hpl in my 21 and although that car had very regular oil changes (5k) the oil was diesel oil dirty, very quick. I’ve got hpl, schaeffers, hps and a case of torco. So I’m set for a while with some quality lube. I’ve also got some pennzoil cheap synthetic and Mobil 1 extended. But I think I’m going to stick with the boutique brands….just because.
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I leave filters through multiple oil changes, BUT I would recommend doing so only after dissecting previous filters to ascertain that the engine isn't significantly clogging them. Mine doesn't, but others vary.
You'll pay in lack of longevity. Do what you want. No body recommends 20,000 mile intervals. Enjoy your car while it still runs. I have a hard time believing this post is legit. It appears about as ridiculous as they come.
On our Honda and Subaru NA PI engines we changed the oil every 13-15K. I used several varieties of extended life oil and extended life filters (Mobil 1, Fram Ultra). These days I just go to Wal-Mart and get M1 Ep 0w-20 and a Fram Endurance filter.
With the Honda I just did 2x the OLM (reset once, then changed it), 13-15K. Time was around 18 mo.
With the Subaru it's around 1 year change intervals, usually 14-15K.
With our DI Subaru it's 6K OCI thanks to many short trips and warranty.
With the Honda I just did 2x the OLM (reset once, then changed it), 13-15K. Time was around 18 mo.
With the Subaru it's around 1 year change intervals, usually 14-15K.
With our DI Subaru it's 6K OCI thanks to many short trips and warranty.
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I think you need to reread what he posted. He’s thinking of going between 5-10k
You are correct, my bad.
I live my life believing 50% of what I read or hear lol. If an oil says 20k, I believe 10k to be safe. These oil companies never intended to stand behind any issues that would arise going so long. That why they have the off-ramp of “follow the manufacturer”. To my knowledge, there’s no one who recommends 20k. At least not in the states.
I’m trying to run my wife’s 24 to the end of the OLM for the 1st time. I’m going to have about 8k when I get home this week and it’s black as can be. The car only has 12k on it so no reason for it to have any accumulation of anything, considering I’ve used hpl ppcmo since 1k. I guess maybe being DI has something to do with it. Although nisssans DI system is nothing like Kia. According to the OLM I can get a hair over 10k out of this interval.
dnewton3
Staff member
Some would go the whole 20k miles; some would not. Some folks use solid data and technical info; others use hyperbole and anecdotal experiences.
When you paint a question with a brush as wide as a house, you're gonna get a HUGE disparity in answers.
I believe your vehicle has an IOLM; it uses a host of parameters to track things like rpm, loads, temps, drive cycles, etc and then the algorithm spits out an OCI based on those conditions. The IOLM is predicated on using an oil that meets Honda's spec; it is not predicated on the base stock. Don't get caught up in the marketing terms; use a lube that meets Honda's spec, or a product that credibly can be believed to perform at/above that spec. Your owner's manual will have the necessary info.
So ... you want an accurate answer to a complex question, and have no intention of putting any effort into it; hoping that others will do your homework for you? You'll fit right in here; there's lots of mythology and rhetoric to go around.
Doing your own repairs has nothing to do with understanding how to select a lubricant. Doing one's own maintenance and properly selecting a lubricant are not mutually dependent.
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I am a big fan of extended OCIs, when the pros and cons are properly understood. There can be great returns, but also great risks, in extending the OCIs past what OEMs recommend. Tools like UOAs and PCs are a great start, but you also have to know the history of the equipment (traits, pro and con, of your engine series). You'll need a good understanding of the lubricant base stocks and additives. And, personal experimentation plays into this. Etc ... One should NEVER jump into greatly extended OCIs. Rather, it's better to slowly, methodically increase the OCIs as you test the waters to track the progress of potential for success or failure.
I cannot stress this enough ... People who don't want to learn/know about the details of any topic, who aren't wanting or willing to get "dirty" by researching to the n'th degree, are bound to be confused and walk away feeling disillusioned. They want a quick silver-bullet answer, without any of the work. These folks are probably best served by just following the OE recommendations for oils and OCIs.
Honestly, the greatest concern for me would be the cylinder deactivation schemes on the Honda engines. I do not know the chronological history well enough to know which years are most at risk, but this is a technology that has never, IMO, proven to be helpful to the engine in the long term. It sacrifices longevity for the sake of fuel economy. It is unproven, IMO, at this point to know whether oil selection and oil OCI can dissuade the problems the VCM system induces.
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