Engine Failure - Toyota 4Runner V6 - Warranty

[demarpaint]

I'd put a magnet on the oil filter, and dump the oil and filter at 500 miles. Then fill it with a good dino oil, run it another 2000 miles, and change the oil and filter again. Then change over to a good synthetic oil. I'd use a good filter like a P1 or M1 filter. JMO

 

[tinmanSC]

Thanks for keeping us updated on all this.

 

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd put a magnet on the oil filter, and dump the oil and filter at 500 miles. Then fill it with a good dino oil, run it another 2000 miles, and change the oil and filter again. Then change over to a good synthetic oil. I'd use a good filter like a P1 or M1 filter. JMO



Good advice....

But, I hold to the notion that probably 75% of the break-in wear metals from the new engine will be released into the oil in the first 50 miles. I will drive around for an hour and then pull on the driveway and dump the oil. Then I will go with your plan above.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: BigJohn
It was impressive work. I have torn down engines, checked clearances, changed out shims, etc....and this guys knows his stuff....very impressive.


That's good to hear...good to hear that they still have that kind of expertise at the local dealership level.

Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Since they have provided a rent car, I am not flipped out about the time this has taken. I just want it done right and have the confidence these guys are doing just fine.


That's also good to hear. Although it's common sense that they'd provide you a loaner vehicle, I've gone though much more hassle than you apparently have with a disabled vehicle at the dealership before.

Thanks for the update.

 

[tsduke]

Ok, rebuilding your 20007 engine is one thing, but he's rebuilt 3 2010's recently. Toyota's sure has an expensive way of fixing blown motors.

Glad to here you getting yours back on the road.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: tsduke
Ok, rebuilding your 20007 engine is one thing, but he's rebuilt 3 2010's recently. Toyota's sure has an expensive way of fixing blown motors.

Glad to here you getting yours back on the road.


I thought the same thing, unless the guy is telling stories to build credibility for himself

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd put a magnet on the oil filter, and dump the oil and filter at 500 miles. Then fill it with a good dino oil, run it another 2000 miles, and change the oil and filter again. Then change over to a good synthetic oil. I'd use a good filter like a P1 or M1 filter. JMO



Good advice....

But, I hold to the notion that probably 75% of the break-in wear metals from the new engine will be released into the oil in the first 50 miles. I will drive around for an hour and then pull on the driveway and dump the oil. Then I will go with your plan above.



Nothing wrong with what you want to do! Go for it, oil is cheap!

I took something for granted! Whenever I helped my brother build an engine he'd run the engine for about 30 minutes to an hour and dump the oil & filter, he'd have a magnet on the filter the minute he started the engine. He'd then do what I suggested above. I should have mentioned that! Sorry.

 

[BigJohn]

I just drove her 20 miles and she is running smooth and strong.

Interesting.....But the receipt says they poured 10w30 Quakerstate in.....?????

This afternoon she is getting a new fill of Castrol GTX 5w30.

 

[BigJohn]

Kinda [censored] me off when I when back and read the receipt.....

Date Car Delivered to Dealer: December 21, 2010
Date Promised, Work Completed: January 16, 2011
Date Work Actually Completed: February 15, 2011

But, we were all so busy for the past two months and since we had a rent car, time passed fast.

Here are the labor notes:

Attempted to start car, engine would not turn over to start. Pushed car into shop, found hole in left and right side of cylinder block. Removed engine assembly, removed bank 1 and bank 2 cylinder heads, found cylinder #2 exhaust valve had broken, putting large hole in #2 piston, causing connecting rod bearings to come apart and damage cylinder block. Engine oil pan was also damaged from connecting rod coming apart from crankshaft. replaced cylinder block, installed new oil pump, sent heads out for valves, valve springs and valve guide seal installation. Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S. Installed cams in new heads and measured and adjusted valve clearance. Installed new spark plugs. All valve clearance is within specs. Replaced VVT-i gears and all timing chain components (main chain on crank sprocket was undersized), replaced VVT-i gears for metal contamination. Reinstalled engine assembly, added Toyota Engine Oil and started engine, no check engine lights and no leaks seen. Test drove twice with same results.


Interesting that they say above that they used Toyota Oil....when on the parts list shows......

Lexus OIL, MOTOR 10-30 QT (I was wrong earlier about Quakerstate)

....and the tech said that they only use Valvoline.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BigJohn

....and the tech said that they only use Valvoline.


LOL I learned early on to take anything a tech working on my car told me with a grain of salt. Either they don't know, don't care, or lie. LOL. Unless they are Bitog members. IMO the Bitog member techs are guys I wish I could do business with, the fact that they frequent this board and share speaks volumes to me!

 

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BigJohn

....and the tech said that they only use Valvoline.


LOL I learned early on to take anything a tech working on my car told me with a grain of salt. Either they don't know, don't care, or lie. LOL. Unless they are Bitog members. IMO the Bitog member techs are guys I wish I could do business with, the fact that they frequent this board and share speaks volumes to me!



I am guessing this has more to do with the Service Writter and this being warranty work. I bet the Service Writter plugged in the Lexus 10w30....and the Tech poured in Valvoline. By the way, the shop and the dealership have Valvoline signs all over the place.

 

[demarpaint]

The service writers, I worked with were real gems, clueless liars would be a compliment. They do have to know how to do the write up for warranty purposes.

 

[Trav]

Quote:
Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S.


Happy you finally got your car back but i have to wonder what the emery cloth thing cleaning camshafts is all about?
I wonder why they just didn't put a long block in?

 

[Chris142]

They probly get their oil from the lowest bidder. At one time it was QS and they have not updated the name in their computer. They put Toyota oil because many people want that in their engines because they don't know any better.

Don't worry about it one bit since It does not matter.

Heck maybe the tech likes Valvoline and he went to A-Zone and got 5 qts of it on his lunch break instead of using the bulk oil from an unknown supplier from a dirty drum?

 

[Hootbro]

Originally Posted By: Trav
......
I wonder why they just didn't put a long block in?


Mentioned previously in the thread that there was enough of a production change with the engine that their is no current long blocks to be had. Hence the short block buildup.

OP is quite lucky as I have seen like mileage used engines given for replacement, rather than a new short block build up.

 

[Johnny]

The QT on the invoice stands for quarts. If the dealer uses bulk Valvoline that is probably what they put in there. The reason the write up say they used Lexus/Toyota oil is for warranty purposes.

If they would have said Valvoline, Toyota would not reimburse for the oil.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S. Installed cams in new heads and measured and adjusted valve clearance.


What the?!?!?

A warranty repair, and they not only re-use the cams (and hardly anything ELSE from the original engine), but use emory cloth to "clean" them???

Maybe standard procedure, but I'd NEVER do that if it were my car and I were repairing it myself.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S.
I'm sure that this engine uses different thickness buckets to adjust the valve clearance. Since they did a valve job on the heads they needed new buckets. I'm thinking that roughing up the cams is a lot like honing a cylinder. The small scratches hold oil so that it gets proper lubrication during the first few minutes of running.

 

[daves87rs]

Good to hear she's running well...

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Chris142

Quote:
Used high grit Emory cloth and fresh engine oil to clean all 4 camshafts per F.T.S.
I'm sure that this engine uses different thickness buckets to adjust the valve clearance. Since they did a valve job on the heads they needed new buckets. I'm thinking that roughing up the cams is a lot like honing a cylinder. The small scratches hold oil so that it gets proper lubrication during the first few minutes of running.


I assumed its a roller cam engine, in which case I don't really see the point of such a cleaning. A cloth and some solvent should do fine. But... If its a flat-tappet (bucket) engine, then MY GOD!!! Any assault on the cam surface with an abrasive would risk compromising the surface-hardening.