Current top 0w-20’s?

Some pay $15 for a drink….
Exactly. And when you add up all the ownership costs associated with a vehicle, seems a little odd to pinch pennies on oil. Consider depreciation, insurance, tag, and fuel. The extra cost of going from a basic API spec oil to M1 ESP to even Amsoil isn't really that a big of a difference in the grand scheme.
 
Not this guy!

Not reason to pay $15 Amsoil SS. $11.80/qt
Besides the barrel, what's the lowest cost per quart? Gallon jugs? Case? (I know I could go to the website and do the math, but you probably know offhand.)

Plus you get basically 5% back on your purchases IIRC. And $5 for your birthday.
 
Exactly. And when you add up all the ownership costs associated with a vehicle, seems a little odd to pinch pennies on oil. Consider depreciation, insurance, tag, and fuel. The extra cost of going from a basic API spec oil to M1 ESP to even Amsoil isn't really that a big of a difference in the grand scheme.

Money saved is money saved. But hey, it's your money and your car.
 
Here is a 2 runs on a 2021 Gladiator 3.6 I used to own new. Amsoil Signature series 0w-20. As far ass viscosity retention is did amazing. Now I never got around to why there was no much iron in the oil. I think the engine was eating a cam but no way to tell. Common on 3.6. I highly recommend you run a 5w30 or 0w-30 in this engine. Honestly 40 weight wouldn’t be bad however Amsoil 5w-30 SS is a good standard.

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Ive ran Torco, HPL, Scaheffers and HPS 5w20 all lately. Cant tell a difference in any of them. I will say that my wifes 24 nissan burned a little HPL but never used any oil before and after HPL. I just put the last of my HPL in my 2018 rogue that has never used a drop in 110k to see what happens. Our 24 has almost 8k on a sump full of Torco and has some pretty hard runs from northern Ohio to the east coast and the level is holding steady. Not a knock on HPL, just is what it is.
 
Is it normal for Jeep engine to have 68 ppm Iron for less than 10k miles? That is like 7x more than typical gasoline engines from Toyota or Honda.
Probably 0w20 is not for it, switching to 0w40 or thicker may help.
 
Exactly. And when you add up all the ownership costs associated with a vehicle, seems a little odd to pinch pennies on oil. Consider depreciation, insurance, tag, and fuel. The extra cost of going from a basic API spec oil to M1 ESP to even Amsoil isn't really that a big of a difference in the grand scheme.
(y)
 
I don't think I'll ever use any 0,5-20 or thinner oils. I pay a lot for a car, as most of us do. For that reason I don't shop oils for prices, as I'm willing to pay more for what I feel good with. I don't shop for lower cost oil. For me a car is an expensive item and I look for quality in whatever lubrication I believe is better for it. Right now I'm onto 0W-30 M1 ESP. Maybe HPL when I use up what I have on hand now.
 
Is it normal for Jeep engine to have 68 ppm Iron for less than 10k miles? That is like 7x more than typical gasoline engines from Toyota or Honda.
Probably 0w20 is not for it, switching to 0w40 or thicker may help.
Its an Iron block, so makes sense that it would shed a bit normally.
 
I have a 2021 jeep gladiator with the updated 3.6 PUG pentastar. Looking to run 0w20 until the warranty is out (10k more miles). Whats the current best 0w20’s? Preferably on the shelf. I was considering Amsoil but at $15 a quart it is pricey and not sure it’s THAT much better.
No best and no OTS, but if money is not an issue, Overkill 0W-20. Run it for 20K and beyond.
 
Is it normal for Jeep engine to have 68 ppm Iron for less than 10k miles? That is like 7x more than typical gasoline engines from Toyota or Honda.
Probably 0w20 is not for it, switching to 0w40 or thicker may help.
No 68 is not normal. Fully broken in shouldn't be more than 40 for 10k miles. Where did you see the 68?
 
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