Unless the guy works on aircraft, he isn't "licensed" although he may be ASE certified.It's obtuse because I trust my licensed mechanic more than some guy I don't know on a forum?
Considering a small SUV
- Thread starter Looger
- Start date
Whatever, the guy's had his own shop for decades...I think he might know what he's doing...
Honest question. So why are you here then?
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2023
- Messages
- 271
It's obtuse because tens of thousands of high mileage K24 powered Honda vehicles are no coincidence. The engine debuted in 2002 and had a 15 or 16 year production run and has been proven rock solid reliable. If your mechanic doesn't know this is common knowledge, then he's definitely not up on things. I mean, the newest CR-V they came in was 2016 or 2017. Whether you just had the spring addressed or did the whole job for $1500 or whatever the going price is - they are absolutely worth buying and fixing.It's obtuse because I trust my licensed mechanic more than some guy I don't know on a forum?
I guess to see who wants to argue with my mechanic...
FWIW, my mechanic just said that was something to look for. He didn't say I should stay away from CR'Vs with this engine...and they are still in my searches...
Regarding the RAV4: I really like the looks! Kinda muscular.
And it ticks a lot of boxes (large enough for a family of 4, mileage, power, etc).
I test drove a hybrid only briefly...maybe a 2023 model. Seemed pretty nice, but I recall the cabin being a bit noisier than expected, so I wrote it off.
That said, I would like to test drive another.
Yet... I'm back and forth on the idea of a hybrid. Regardless of how well engineered it is, the system is another potential failure point. I believe there is also some additional maintenance involved (special coolant and filters). More crap to take care of.
BUT, Toyota batteries are covered for 10 years/100k miles. That is impressive.
The RAV4 is back on my list.
I'm bouncing between the Subaru Outback or Forester (that boxer looks like a sealing nightmare, stupid driver attention nanny crap, and the touch screen...ugh), Tucson (reliability? Mileage? Stupid driver attention nanny, Low headlight placement = covered with snow?), CX5 or CX50 (I think these have an edge in reliability, but may ride too firm, and be a bit too small...and the seats were unpleasant), and the CRV (cabin noise?, premium price, worrisome 1.5T).
The larger Mazdas are too big.
By the way, the CRV is (low) on my list because:
-the driver assist stuff is VERY well tuned on the Accord, so I assume it will behave similarly in the CRV). I didn't think I needed it, but on a long drive, adaptive cruise and Lane keep assist is very nice.
-I believe it lacks the mandatory driver attention nanny crap found on many (the Tucson, for example, will not allow adaptive cruise if it thinks you aren't paying attention; and the Subaru is notorious for nagging).
-Good combo of space, power, mileage, handling and comfort.
-Despite the concerns, Honda does have a good reputation for reliability.
Oh, I noticed the conversation about the older CRV.
Like many, I'm always concerned about strange or bad engineering.
There are so many examples, and Honda isn't innocent.
We gave my wife's well-maintained 2003 to our niece.
She drove from mid Michigan to Hocking Hills Ohio and back without any issues.
We met her and her sons down there and bounced between attractions. I was at times behind her through the super twisty and hilly terrain, and the little CRV seemed just fine. It must have over 250k on it.
However, the VTC spring rattle is real, but is not super expensive to repair for a DIY.
Could be pricy for a shop to do, but not sure.
My wife's 17 CRV and son's 10 CRV (both 2.4L) rattle on startup.
And, the point about rust on the 2010ish is correct. My son's 10 CRV was subject to a recall due to the rear suspension adjustment bolt areas rusting and the frame area breaking.
When alignment is attempted, the bolts could break within the frame.
I could take the car into a dealer for inspection, where they would attempt to loosen the bolts.
Due to the location and difficulty in repair, if the bolts break, the car is condemned! If they survive, Honda will add a special adapter plate, I think.
I decided to just clean up the area and not mess with it.
Another known issue of that vintage is the infamous steel coolant crossover pipe.
It uses o-rings at the ends which seat into plastic housings. The pipe is held in place by brackets.
It rusts severely where the left side enters the housing...and leaks...and possibly breaks off within the housing.
You can't just bypass it with a chunk of rubber tubing because it rusts out flush with the housing, and because of the o-ring ends which are held firmly in the housings by the brackets.
There is no easy fix AND you can't find the OEM part (I got lucky and found one). You have to go aftermarket and pray it is made to exact spec (the bends and bracket location must be spot-on, or it won't seal).
You have to remove the intake and some other stuff for the repair, and hope that you don't break the thermostat housing during pipe removal.
Not the worst job but not pleasant.
Squirrel!
And it ticks a lot of boxes (large enough for a family of 4, mileage, power, etc).
I test drove a hybrid only briefly...maybe a 2023 model. Seemed pretty nice, but I recall the cabin being a bit noisier than expected, so I wrote it off.
That said, I would like to test drive another.
Yet... I'm back and forth on the idea of a hybrid. Regardless of how well engineered it is, the system is another potential failure point. I believe there is also some additional maintenance involved (special coolant and filters). More crap to take care of.
BUT, Toyota batteries are covered for 10 years/100k miles. That is impressive.
The RAV4 is back on my list.
I'm bouncing between the Subaru Outback or Forester (that boxer looks like a sealing nightmare, stupid driver attention nanny crap, and the touch screen...ugh), Tucson (reliability? Mileage? Stupid driver attention nanny, Low headlight placement = covered with snow?), CX5 or CX50 (I think these have an edge in reliability, but may ride too firm, and be a bit too small...and the seats were unpleasant), and the CRV (cabin noise?, premium price, worrisome 1.5T).
The larger Mazdas are too big.
By the way, the CRV is (low) on my list because:
-the driver assist stuff is VERY well tuned on the Accord, so I assume it will behave similarly in the CRV). I didn't think I needed it, but on a long drive, adaptive cruise and Lane keep assist is very nice.
-I believe it lacks the mandatory driver attention nanny crap found on many (the Tucson, for example, will not allow adaptive cruise if it thinks you aren't paying attention; and the Subaru is notorious for nagging).
-Good combo of space, power, mileage, handling and comfort.
-Despite the concerns, Honda does have a good reputation for reliability.
Oh, I noticed the conversation about the older CRV.
Like many, I'm always concerned about strange or bad engineering.
There are so many examples, and Honda isn't innocent.
We gave my wife's well-maintained 2003 to our niece.
She drove from mid Michigan to Hocking Hills Ohio and back without any issues.
We met her and her sons down there and bounced between attractions. I was at times behind her through the super twisty and hilly terrain, and the little CRV seemed just fine. It must have over 250k on it.
However, the VTC spring rattle is real, but is not super expensive to repair for a DIY.
Could be pricy for a shop to do, but not sure.
My wife's 17 CRV and son's 10 CRV (both 2.4L) rattle on startup.
And, the point about rust on the 2010ish is correct. My son's 10 CRV was subject to a recall due to the rear suspension adjustment bolt areas rusting and the frame area breaking.
When alignment is attempted, the bolts could break within the frame.
I could take the car into a dealer for inspection, where they would attempt to loosen the bolts.
Due to the location and difficulty in repair, if the bolts break, the car is condemned! If they survive, Honda will add a special adapter plate, I think.
I decided to just clean up the area and not mess with it.
Another known issue of that vintage is the infamous steel coolant crossover pipe.
It uses o-rings at the ends which seat into plastic housings. The pipe is held in place by brackets.
It rusts severely where the left side enters the housing...and leaks...and possibly breaks off within the housing.
You can't just bypass it with a chunk of rubber tubing because it rusts out flush with the housing, and because of the o-ring ends which are held firmly in the housings by the brackets.
There is no easy fix AND you can't find the OEM part (I got lucky and found one). You have to go aftermarket and pray it is made to exact spec (the bends and bracket location must be spot-on, or it won't seal).
You have to remove the intake and some other stuff for the repair, and hope that you don't break the thermostat housing during pipe removal.
Not the worst job but not pleasant.
Squirrel!
The last picture^, spray some light Fluid Film all over that setup before buttoning it up. Might help it last longer.
I have no love for our '03 but it hasn't died yet. Camshaft is half flat but it still runs ok. That intake manifold is a pain though! I've had to take it off a couple of times (whatever gizmo is in it for runners, and starter).
The new Outback (if you're ok with the boxy looks), has a redesigned center console with a new infotainment system - most of the HVAC controls have been moved from the screen and into physical buttons, which I like.
Of course, being first model year brings its own set of potential teething issues...
https://www.caranddriver.com/subaru/outback
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2023
- Messages
- 271
TLDR version - don't buy a 3rd gen CR-V. AC compressors go bad, the rust issue, still have hydraulic PS, and they are ugly from nose to tail.
What year models make up the 3rd gen?
2007 - 2011.
Good to know
Why not a Toyota hybrid? Why did you leave the #1 brand out of your list? Our 2021 Rav4 only costs $1,100 more than the gas-only in the same Limited trim. The hybrid has better pep, much better MPG, a far, far better transmission, its brake pads last longer, less belts, better 0-60 by one second. This can be said too for other Toyota hybrids like the Corolla, Camry, too. And the 2025 Prius is no longer a dog...it has respectable 0-60 and near 60 MPG.
Is your aversion to hybrids based on facts, science, or feelings (which are often irrational)?
Why didn't you get the hybrid version of your Rav4? The hybrid gets far better MPG, has better pep, 0-60, and our 2021 Limited only cost around $1,100 more than the gas-only in same trim.
Another system that can fail? The Rav4H hybrid system has been refined over the past 27+ years, and it is renowned for being bullet proof. The transmission has just 8 major parts, and the motor/generators are bullet proof. Had you done your homework, you would place a Toyota hybrid system at the very top of your list.
Sorry, I probably was not clear, but I mentioned at some point in this thread that a hybrid is back on the table.
Edited to add: I did more research and Toyota's hybrid system is pretty robust.
I really like the RAV4 looks and overall vibe.
BUT! I test drove one (can't recall the year, but between a 22 and 24), and it seemed pretty nice. It was only a short drive though.
Though I "didn't do my homework" on the drivetrain, road noise is why the Toyota was not at the top of my list and was essentially taken off.
I'm tired of loud cars.
Most of the reviews state it is not quiet at highway speeds, but I need to test drive a newer model to see for myself.
I didn't intend to start a debate on drivetrain reliability, but it is always an interesting discussion.
I agree that hybrid systems can be super reliable (especially given the eCVT and diminished brake and engine wear), but I stand by my belief that, in general, the more systems there are, the more likely a failure can occur.
That said, my homework has left me VERY impressed by Toyota's hybrid systems.
Bob
Edited to add: I did more research and Toyota's hybrid system is pretty robust.
I really like the RAV4 looks and overall vibe.
BUT! I test drove one (can't recall the year, but between a 22 and 24), and it seemed pretty nice. It was only a short drive though.
Though I "didn't do my homework" on the drivetrain, road noise is why the Toyota was not at the top of my list and was essentially taken off.
I'm tired of loud cars.
Most of the reviews state it is not quiet at highway speeds, but I need to test drive a newer model to see for myself.
I didn't intend to start a debate on drivetrain reliability, but it is always an interesting discussion.
I agree that hybrid systems can be super reliable (especially given the eCVT and diminished brake and engine wear), but I stand by my belief that, in general, the more systems there are, the more likely a failure can occur.
That said, my homework has left me VERY impressed by Toyota's hybrid systems.
Bob
Last edited:
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
It is a standard feature on all Toyota’s. Smaller the worse.
I'm not trying to debate you, just trying to shed some light. I think its less about the number of "systems", more about the number of parts. The CVT used by the gas version has far more parts than the eCVT. And the eCVT is far more reliable than the CVT in the gas-only. Do you still stand by your original opinion?
