Considering a small SUV

The 'two-four rattle'....? This is the VTC actuator rattle, and it's not a deal breaker. It's fixable with a rebuild kit from a Canadian company, a timing chain tensioner, and/or a timing chain. There is an updated actuator, but they end up rattling too. In many cases, it's just a spring replacement away from being resolved. The 2007-11 CR-V's are notorious for rust and the AC compressors going bad, and they still use hydraulic power steering. The 2012-14 before the appearance update with the Earth Dreams K24 and CVT are the best CR-V's ever made. Someone here has one with over 600K miles on the original drivetrain. Mine is about to turn 300K miles. Any oil consumption can be remedied as well, and if it can't be, the engine (and transmission) is worth replacing with a used one from Japan.
My mechanic said the VTC rattle fix could cost north of $1K to fix. I'm sure that's probably worst case scenario. I remember when I could seek out used vehicles from Honda or Toyota and all I had to be concerned with was how well it was maintained. Now days you have to stay away from certain year models because of built-in problems. This seriously limits vehicle availability...
 
2010-11 had the piston ring / oil consumption issues. 2012-14 had VTC issue. Both have plenty of examples running past 200k miles.
The 5 speed autos in the early years were rough on reliability.
CX5 in the first gen imo was awful with back seat space especially compared to the Accord the OP has. I think the automotive industry hit peak reliability in the early-mid 2000s. So if you’re really looking for the last bullet proof CRV that was maybe MY2003 or MY2004. Would you buy a car today without side airbags or a car that’s over 20 years old for a long commute or to haul your family (both are deal breakers imo)?
Blanket statement that a Honda after 2011 is something to stay away from is silly imo.
FWIW, staying away from post 2011 CR-Vs was something I was told by others I assumed knew more about these vehicles than I do, it wasn't my idea...this vehicle will be my 2nd car, and not something I will typically be hauling my family around in...
 
My mechanic said the VTC rattle fix could cost north of $1K to fix....
Except when you look into the root causes of why they fail, the fix could be north of $40 to fix, even less if you replace the spring in the actuator with something cheaper like the ones people use sold on Amazon.
 
Except when you look into the root causes of why they fail, the fix could be north of $40 to fix, even less if you replace the spring in the actuator with something cheaper like the ones people use sold on Amazon.
Like I said, my mechanic may be giving me a worst case scenario, but I can't be buying vehicles based on some guy, who is unknown to me, on a forum saying it's a $40 fix...it's nothing personal, but I trust my mechanic...
 
Would you buy a car today without side airbags or a car that’s over 20 years old for a long commute or to haul your family (both are deal breakers imo)?
Yes.

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Are you saying Rav4s aren't comfortable? I personally don't know as I've never driven one. I do know they're reliable though...

My cousin told me they weren't.
She bought a new '15 Rav-4 Limited and absolutely hated it.
After I bought our Pilot new, she became all interested in it and asked if she could drive it.
She liked it so much, she bought a new EX-L like ours (different color) from the same out of state dealer (she really liked the deal I got) and is still driving it.
After driving Toyota for 20 years, she still likes the Honda.
 
Like I said, my mechanic may be giving me a worst case scenario, but I can't be buying vehicles based on some guy, who is unknown to me, on a forum saying it's a $40 fix...it's nothing personal, but I trust my mechanic...
Take a look at this video for a common solution for the K24 startup rattle due to the VTC cam gear actuator.

 
Late to the conversation but another vehicle to consider is the Mazda CX-50. Different look than the CX-5 but comes with a hybrid option borrowed from Toyota.
 
My mechanic said the VTC rattle fix could cost north of $1K to fix. I'm sure that's probably worst case scenario. I remember when I could seek out used vehicles from Honda or Toyota and all I had to be concerned with was how well it was maintained. Now days you have to stay away from certain year models because of built-in problems. This seriously limits vehicle availability...
My daughter just got a quote from local dealer on her 2014 crv and was $1400 local indy with stellar rep was $1500.
 
Take a look at this video for a common solution for the K24 startup rattle due to the VTC cam gear actuator.
I wouldn't bother with him. He's set on not fully understanding the root causes of the issue and leaving it to his mechanic. I digress though, it's his car and choice. This has been veering off topic. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk about the VTC actuator rattle, I have amassed a ton of information and insights into it.
 
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Like I said, my mechanic may be giving me a worst case scenario, but I can't be buying vehicles based on some guy, who is unknown to me, on a forum saying it's a $40 fix...it's nothing personal, but I trust my mechanic...
That's obtuse, and it's really not doing the chassis its due justice at all. You are really throwing out the baby with the bathwater on this one. Do as you wish though.
 
FWIW, staying away from post 2011 CR-Vs was something I was told by others I assumed knew more about these vehicles than I do, it wasn't my idea...this vehicle will be my 2nd car, and not something I will typically be hauling my family around in...
People like to give advice and then have very strong opinions about it. Just do your homework and you’ll be fine with a newer vehicle, Honda or otherwise.
 

Totally relevant to post your 2 door Beemer that you bought new in a thread where the OP is asking about going from a sedan to a CUV/SUV and the post I replied to was someone getting advice to buy an old used CRV.
Let’s also totally ignore the fact that in general vehicle structures have become safer compared to just about every brand in the 90s.
 
Totally relevant to post your 2 door Beemer that you bought new in a thread where the OP is asking about going from a sedan to a CUV/SUV and the post I replied to was someone getting advice to buy an old used CRV.
Let’s also totally ignore the fact that in general vehicle structures have become safer compared to just about every brand in the 90s.
You asked a question and I answered it. By the way, Beemers don’t have two doors- they have two wheels.
I also believe that you will find that a lot of people aren’t going to obsessively wring their hands over not owning the latest and greatest safety transportation pod. Did I mention that my 16 year old son’s first car was a 1975 2002?
 
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You asked a question and I answered it. By the way, Beemers don’t have two doors- they have two wheels.
I also believe that you will find that a lot of people aren’t going to obsessively wring their hands over not owning the latest and greatest safety transportation pod. Did I mention that my 16 year old son’s first car was a 1975 2002?
amen....bimmers have doors and 4 wheels....Beemers are motorcycles.....
 
Thinking about ditching my 19 Accord.
Great car I many ways: insanely good mileage, reasonably quick, drives great, pretty reliable, surprisingly roomy.
The driver assist stuff is VERY well executed (lane keep/assist and adaptive cruise).

But... uncomfortable seats, limited capabilities in winter (does fine with CC2 tires, but I get nervous as the snow increases in SE Michigan), LOW ground clearance, too much road noise.
And I'm a little concerned about the 1.5T longevity.

I don't want a hybrid.

So:
Honda CRV.
Tons of posivies, but:
Expensive, not particularly quiet (apparently the 25 models are quieter), questionable engine longevity (1.5T).

Subaru Forester.
Mechanically looks like a winner.
25 model is quieter and improved in several ways.
But: Sluggish engine, NANNY crap that nags you to watch the road or decides to slam the brakes for no reason, has a giant stupid slow touch screen.
Amazing that what is otherwise a well designed vehicle may be ruined by garbage electronics.

Hyundai Tucson.
Lots of good stuff.
But: really slow basic engine with low mileage. A lot of electronics makes me a little wary. There were a lot of early electronics issues early on. Questionable reliability.
Was quiet on a brief test drive.

Kia Sportage
Similar to Tucson, didn't test drive thought.

Nissan Rogue.
Decent on paper, but read that it has a too much cabin noise.

Mazda CX5.
Test drove several times briefly.
Drove well and was quiet. Decent acceleration. I like the drivetrain's mechanical simplicity.

But: small, narrow, firm seats. Very firm ride (the Accord is firm, yet absorbs bumps well), but I need to do more test drives and bring a pressure gauge, because maybe they were at 45psi...
Also, it is a little smaller than I would prefer, and outward visibility isn't great.

Subaru Outback.
Similar to Forester.

Chevrolet Equinox.
Ugh. Decent on paper...kinda.
Might do a test drive, but it doesn't seem to have any real standout features (poor mileage, not quiet?)

So many choices...

Ultimately it will probably be a coin toss, but any advice is appreciated...!
In that bracket, the CX5 Turbo or Signature.
 
You asked a question and I answered it. By the way, Beemers don’t have two doors- they have two wheels.
I also believe that you will find that a lot of people aren’t going to obsessively wring their hands over not owning the latest and greatest safety transportation pod. Did I mention that my 16 year old son’s first car was a 1975 2002?
Yes I asked a question to the person who was being told they shouldn’t consider a CRV newer than 2011 solely based on perceived reliability so that they can broaden their search criteria. The VTC actuator issue on 2012+ CRVs is not an end all problem. The point being they don’t have to pigeonhole themselves with an older used CRV. By the way, your experience with owning a 318ti since new is clearly relevant to that.

There’s a difference between wanting the latest safety transportation pod vs. wanting something that’s comfortable to drive and slightly safer. Those sound like broad based conclusions.

I alternate driving between a 940SE, a 300D and a 9-5. Those range between 15-44 years old. Not exactly the latest safety transportation pods. So how does that help the OP or grampi irrespective of what I drive or what your 16 year old drives? Again context and relevance.

Again, since context is a hard concept - most don’t let their 16 years old drive a classic car. Most doesn’t equal all parents. You can control how your kid drives to an extent, but you can’t control the average clueless person driving around your kid.

See the pattern? Ok, now I’ll wait for you to respond to further derail this thread.
 
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The 'two-four rattle'....? This is the VTC actuator rattle, and it's not a deal breaker. It's fixable with a rebuild kit from a Canadian company, a timing chain tensioner, and/or a timing chain. There is an updated actuator, but they end up rattling too. In many cases, it's just a spring replacement away from being resolved. The 2007-11 CR-V's are notorious for rust and the AC compressors going bad, and they still use hydraulic power steering. The 2012-14 before the appearance update with the Earth Dreams K24 and CVT are the best CR-V's ever made. Someone here has one with over 600K miles on the original drivetrain. Mine is about to turn 300K miles. Any oil consumption can be remedied as well, and if it can't be, the engine (and transmission) is worth replacing with a used one from Japan.
Wow that's a strong endorsement. I had a 2012 for a couple years and I liked the old fashioned engine and transmission combo. CVT's and turbos are for the birds.
 
Late to the conversation but another vehicle to consider is the Mazda CX-50. Different look than the CX-5 but comes with a hybrid option borrowed from Toyota.
That's obtuse, and it's really not doing the chassis its due justice at all. You are really throwing out the baby with the bathwater on this one. Do as you wish though.
It's obtuse because I trust my licensed mechanic more than some guy I don't know on a forum? :ROFLMAO:
 
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