Car recommends 5W-30 outside US and Canada vs 0W-20. Run 5W-30 right?

[Astro14]

I towed a 5,000 pound travel trailer with a Silverado 5.3 running 0w/20 all over the Rocky Mountains and the motor didn't blow up.

I would be fine doing that if I had an oil temperature gauge. There is an oil cooler (coolant to oil) built into the filter housing on the truck, so it’s probably fine. It’s probably consistent, particularly since mine isn’t a turbo engine.

I just wish it were gauged so that I could keep an eye on it.

Oil temp, oil pressure, oil sump quantity gauges, just like a jet engine…

 

[kschachn]

Since we still don’t know what type of car I think the best route is to do a hot oil flush, fill with 20w50 and at least one full bottle of Lucas additive.

If the car still makes noise add another full bottle of Lucas until all noise is gone.

It's not very relevant what car this is. Wear is a direct correlation to HT/HS regardless of vehicle.

 

[Bill7]

Since we still don’t know what type of car I think the best route is to do a hot oil flush, fill with 20w50 and at least one full bottle of Lucas additive.

If the car still makes noise add another full bottle of Lucas until all noise is gone.

Well, I prefer thick oil, but will never use Lucas additive.
I had a 1994 Ford E150 Van which had the oil gauge on the dashboard that through out the life of the vehicle always immediately and permanently went to the 60% spot from the left on the old style gauge when the engine was on. An older mechanic did an oil change for me, and he told me after the oil change that he took the liberty of adding Lucus oil additive to the oil as it's the best thing for these vans.
After that the oil gauge for the first time in it's history was moving and was getting lower oil pressure.

I went to another shop right away to get that thick as molassis Lucas fluid out of my engine and did another oil change.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Exactly. I think the problem here in the US is too many of us believe we should follow the insane oil viscosity / OCI recommendations in our owners manuals that are written by car manufacturers trying to evade CAFE fines. These car manufacturers don't care about our engine's longevity after the warranty runs out.

Yet every one of them will sell you an extended warranty for much less than the cost of an engine replacement.

 

[Bill7]

Yet every one of them will sell you an extended warranty for much less than the cost of an engine replacement.

Good luck making a claim for an engine replacement. They'll tell you burning 2 quarts of oil every 1,000 miles is "normal operation".

 

[wemay]

 

[CKN]

I would be fine doing that if I had an oil temperature gauge. There is an oil cooler (coolant to oil) built into the filter housing on the truck, so it’s probably fine. It’s probably consistent, particularly since mine isn’t a turbo engine.

I just wish it were gauged so that I could keep an eye on it.

Oil temp, oil pressure, oil sump quantity gauges, just like a jet engine…

The oil pressure gauge on the Silverado causes more angst and questions on forums than any other thing-except for AFM. At a red light when the ambient temperature is 80 or 90 degrees-you get 20 to 30 p.s.i.-on the gauge. Many owners think something is wrong. However-the motor is deigned to run with this kind of pressure-on the later models 5.3s.

 

[CKN]

Exactly. I think the problem here in the US is too many of us believe we should follow the insane oil viscosity / OCI recommendations in our owners manuals that are written by car manufacturers trying to evade CAFE fines. These car manufacturers don't care about our engine's longevity after the warranty runs out.

That statement is a bunch of garbage.

 

[TiGeo]

That statement is a bunch of garbage.

All the bazillions of autos on the road in the U.S. running xW20 for the last however many years....where are the photos of cars scattered along the highways with worn out engines from running thin oils....my Focus is 10 years old 125K on 5W20 with no consumption or issues (on Motorcraft syn blend and Supertech no less!). Guess it lasted the warranty period at least...

Edit. In before "But it's more worn out than if you had run xW30." which per the standard link to the HTHS graph someone always shares is true. Ford really pulled one over on me I guess.

 

[Bill7]

It's not very relevant what car this is. Wear is a direct correlation to HT/HS regardless of vehicle.

Very true. For proof, anyone can google: HTHS wear graph.

 

[bhvrdr]

Keep in mind that vehicles that are sold in Europe or other countries are not always set up the same as vehicles sold in the United States. They have different fuel qualities in other countries as well as different additive chemistries and they also have other equipment on European vehicles in the United States for example some of the exact same vehicles that are sold in the United States are equipped with gasoline particulate filters in other countries and many other differences such as ventilation systems etc.


The absolute only way to know whether it's okay to run a different oil than what the manufacturer recommends for your country is to contact that manufacturer and ask.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

You will never be able to distinguish any difference in fuel economy by what viscosity oil you put in your crankcase. Manufacturers are looking for microscopic gains in a fleet average, over millions of vehicles. Something you as a consumer will never notice on the road.... Or see in your wallet.

I have noted very modest gains but not anything significant (mainly in winter), but it is about fleets and not individual drivers. BTW, 5W-30 is also a "CAFE driven" oil and was "not recommended for sustained highway driving" 30-40 years ago. So differences in viscosity have been made moot with advances in base oil and additive formulation and technology...

You are not going to pollute the air by switching to a higher viscosity oil. If anything you'll reduce it by reducing oil consumption. Something that is a very real problem with many of these newer engines that are recommended to use water thin oils.

You are correct sir as far as the "smog" part. Maybe I was overreaching a bit, but is a 5W-20 a "water thin oil" if the actual base oil is thicker than those often used to formulate a 5W-30?

Bourbon is where viscosity actually matters...

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

I could never bring myself to do that with 0W-20.

Well it's probably an over 8 qt sump and has an oil cooler, so you ain't gonna have a problem as they've driven millions of miles on these things....

 

[billt460]

....... is a 5W-20 a "water thin oil" if the actual base oil is thicker than those often used to formulate a 5W-30?

5W-20 is 5W-20. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[PimTac]

My very simple logic here is the 5W-30 is probably the better choice for the engine. If 0W-20 was really what was optimal, why not recommend it globally?

Thoughts? Especially when it’s hot.

As long as the parts are separated you are fine. As for the heat the cooling system takes care of that.

20 grade is a pretty thick oil these days. It’s available everywhere.

 

[Olinskis]

As long as the parts are separated you are fine. As for the heat the cooling system takes care of that.

20 grade is a pretty thick oil these days. It’s available everywhere.

WOOOSH. His point was that in hotter climates you want a higher viscosity oil due to higher temps resulting in greater viscosity reduction. Towing in Vancouver vs towing in south Texas, for example, one would be more inclined to run a higher viscosity oil in south Texas due to the heat.

Further... 20 is far from "pretty thick." Product data sheets make that clear. My bike calls for 40 weights, the mower/blower for 30. Why would I want less protection for a modern engine? For .5 MPG? I'll stick with my 30s and 40s.

FWIW, I'm an auto tech. The number of vehicles I service DAILY using xw20 oils that are 1-2 quarts low or more is staggering. From the Korean makes, to American domestics, to Japanese. Most of our clients with German cars still have them spec'd for 30 or 40 weight. And some newer RAMs and Jeeps are spec'd for xw40 euro. There's a LOT of merit to thicker and very little for thinner. Maybe some makes/engines are fine on a 20, but I think you're rolling the dice. Engines are expensive and can take a while for problems to develop. Remember that.

 

[flash7210]

Why would I want less protection for a modern engine? For .5 MPG? I'll stick with my 30s and 40s.

My truck calls for 5w-20.
I use 10w30.
No noticeable drop in mpg.
But I live in FL.

 

[PimTac]

WOOOSH. His point was that in hotter climates you want a higher viscosity oil due to higher temps resulting in greater viscosity reduction. Towing in Vancouver vs towing in south Texas, for example, one would be more inclined to run a higher viscosity oil in south Texas due to the heat.

Further... 20 is far from "pretty thick." Product data sheets make that clear. My bike calls for 40 weights, the mower/blower for 30. Why would I want less protection for a modern engine? For .5 MPG? I'll stick with my 30s and 40s.

FWIW, I'm an auto tech. The number of vehicles I service DAILY using xw20 oils that are 1-2 quarts low or more is staggering. From the Korean makes, to American domestics, to Japanese. Most of our clients with German cars still have them spec'd for 30 or 40 weight. And some newer RAMs and Jeeps are spec'd for xw40 euro. There's a LOT of merit to thicker and very little for thinner. Maybe some makes/engines are fine on a 20, but I think you're rolling the dice. Engines are expensive and can take a while for problems to develop. Remember that.

Whoosh. I don’t see it.

 

[Drew7a]

Been running 0W-40 in a toyota that calls for 0w-16 in a cold state.

Has not blown up yet.

 

[billt460]

Been running 0W-40 in a toyota that calls for 0w-16 in a cold state.

Has not blown up yet.

I just changed oil in my Toyota. It calls for 0W-16. I put in 0W-30. I think next Spring when I change it again for the hot Summer months, I'll go with Mobil 1 0W-40 "European Formula".