At what temp will an engine with water freeze?

That's one less thing I need to worry about on my boat, as it's a Rotax jet drive and the engine cooling is a closed circuit that uses coolant.

Besides an oil change and fuel stabilizer, all I've had to do to winterize the boat is make sure all the water is out of the jet drive. Easy to do with a small air compressor.
 
That's one less thing I need to worry about on my boat, as it's a Rotax jet drive and the engine cooling is a closed circuit that uses coolant.

Besides an oil change and fuel stabilizer, all I've had to do to winterize the boat is make sure all the water is out of the jet drive. Easy to do with a small air compressor.

My last boat had a closed circuit cooled 496...it still wasn't that simple, but easier than a normal rig. Been doing it many years...I just always get nervous on those first cold nights when I don't have it done yet.
 
My last boat had a closed circuit cooled 496...it still wasn't that simple, but easier than a normal rig. Been doing it many years...I just always get nervous on those first cold nights when I don't have it done yet.
I was actually hoping to get out on the lake one more time before the cold comes, but it's just not going to work out. So it got a good wash and wax as well, made sure the bilge area is completely dry and it'll go into storage tomorrow... a sad day.
 
Everyone go get rid of that +32 windshield washer fluid you've been carelessly running all summer!
Thanks for reminding me! being a penny-pincher, I have been using tap water with a couple drops of dish detergent in my WW reservoir across the summer. Guys, you can use non toxic propylene glycol in the block for cold storage.
 
Problem where I am is they can't call a low. They'll call for 28f and we'll get 24f.
Put a squirt of RV antifreeze in each side of the block.
Or install valves that drain all the water out of the lowest recess of the block.
That marine block should already have blocks drains installed in each side at the bottom.
 
Well, freezing is freezing. It would depend if the engine compartment goes below freezing and for how long. It would also depend if the weather forecast is correct. What if it goes down to 25f? I would throw an incandescent light bulb in there or if an option lower the boat into the water.
A others mentioned you can also look to find the drain peacocks on the block and manifolds. Insert a wire to make sure they drain. All sounds like to much work for a temporary reprieve though.
 
I'm quite certain it would not be useless. MANY folks have kept an engine from freezing by throwing an incandescent light bulb in the engine bay. My batteries and charger (15 amp) are sitting in that closed engine bay with a fabric cover over the boat. The heat generated by the charger and batteries would certainly do something to keep that bay area above freezing...no doubt at all.
Well, nothing might not have been the nicest way to say it.

More specifically, I do not think it would do much to make a difference as regards to engine damage due to freezing. There is a big difference between a bulb, which is really a heating element that emits light, and a battery charger. One is meant to heat and the other, heat is a slight by product. Also, your charger does not constatly charge at 15 amps, it turms off at some point.

You also did not mention that it was covered or at least I did not see that.. This is key. A cover will trap heat in very well.

Point is, why not just use a heat lamp or something that is made for heating and not risking and engine to a preconceived hypothetical question.

So yeah, sure in the same way breathing under the tarp would help prevent freezing, so would your charger.

Sure get cold in Iowa, wait untl it gets in the single digits place your charger under there and report back after the winter is over.
 
Well, freezing is freezing. It would depend if the engine compartment goes below freezing and for how long. It would also depend if the weather forecast is correct. What if it goes down to 25f? I would throw an incandescent light bulb in there or if an option lower the boat into the water.
A others mentioned you can also look to find the drain peacocks on the block and manifolds. Insert a wire to make sure they drain. All sounds like to much work for a temporary reprieve though.
Yes, yes...I know how to winterize an I/O...I do appreciate the reply though. I will have to drive the boat from the slip to the trailer...so hate to do the winterization work twice.
 
Sure get cold in Iowa, wait untl it gets in the single digits place your charger under there and report back after the winter is over.

Yes it does, and why I do a proper winterization every fall. We have had unseasonably warm weather that allowed that fall task to slip down the list.
 
Yes it does, and why I do a proper winterization every fall. We have had unseasonably warm weather that allowed that fall task to slip down the list.
OK, then you have answered your own question, or were looking for validation.

If your charger idea would work, then why do the winterization?
 
Wind speed is irrelevant. Inanimate objects sense only the actual temperature and not wind chill.
Yes. But if the block is 50F and air is 28F you heat some of the air up around the block a little and then move it away for new air that is 28F you again heat some of the air up around the block. With wind you are constantly doing that. With no wind the block heats up some air around the block and it kind of stays there.

Now what you are referring to if you have a block of steel in back yard and by 2AM it's cooled down to 28F same as air temp. The block stays at 28F whether there is no wind or 100 MPH wind.

Your skin however will feel it way definitely whether it's calm or 100 MPH wind.
 
Maybe this belongs in the boating section, but I was thinking it would apply to race cars, and anything where folks might not use anti-freeze.

Tonight is supposed to dip down to 28F...my boat is still sitting on the water (on a lift, out of the water, but under a cover). Obviously the water temp is still well above freezing...but with the boat sitting 2 foot off the top of the water, it makes me nervous. I was thinking of running down there and at least plugging in the battery charger which sits in the engine compartment, and would create heat along with the batteries.

So...what air temp would freeze and crack a block? Iron heads, Iron block in this case...
If there is no water/antifreeze mix in the block, then it would not freeze and cause problems. Drain ALL of the coolant if in question.

However, I have yet to see any engine in Iowa with a proper water/antifreeze mix damage a block.
 
Wind speed is irrelevant. Inanimate objects sense only the actual temperature and not wind chill.

Not quite true. Blowing cold air over warmer equipment will make it cool down faster, just like blowing over hot soup, and the inverse is also true, just like an air fryer.

It won't cool down below the actual temperature but it'll get there faster.
 
I'm quite certain it would not be useless. MANY folks have kept an engine from freezing by throwing an incandescent light bulb in the engine bay. My batteries and charger (15 amp) are sitting in that closed engine bay with a fabric cover over the boat. The heat generated by the charger and batteries would certainly do something to keep that bay area above freezing...no doubt at all.
It's common here for people to discover that their car's block heater is not working. This tends to happen on a very cold day after the engine fails to start.

An incandescent light bulb, preferably 100 W or more, serves well as a substitute block heater.
 
Need to be concerned about ALL systems containing water. Engine block may not freeze, but all hoses, pumps and shut off valves may crack or get damaged as temperatures dip and fluids freeze as they expand. May only find this out only when next in the water. Assume you have drained all systems and replaced with the pink stuff (RV/antifreeze) while on the hard.

Was surprised to find that this stuff does freeze at low temperatures too. BUT it does NOT expand as it freezes, providing safety to your systems. My Universal M25 diesel engine has two systems and a heat exchange. One constantly draws water from the outside (open system) the other is a closed system that contains coolant as in a car engine block. Uses the old style regular green coolant I have yet to change since I acquired the boat.
 
Ice expands as temps drop. It’s that expansion that can wreck a radiator or even crack a block. I don’t believe 28 F will cause problems but you want to drain it asap. I believe the eastern states is having a cold snap right now but will warm up again before the real onset of winter.
 
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