As someone else pointed out, your boat is sitting in a huge body of relatively warm water. Until the lake starts to freeze you have no problem.
That's one less thing I need to worry about on my boat, as it's a Rotax jet drive and the engine cooling is a closed circuit that uses coolant.
Besides an oil change and fuel stabilizer, all I've had to do to winterize the boat is make sure all the water is out of the jet drive. Easy to do with a small air compressor.
I was actually hoping to get out on the lake one more time before the cold comes, but it's just not going to work out. So it got a good wash and wax as well, made sure the bilge area is completely dry and it'll go into storage tomorrow... a sad day.My last boat had a closed circuit cooled 496...it still wasn't that simple, but easier than a normal rig. Been doing it many years...I just always get nervous on those first cold nights when I don't have it done yet.
Thanks for reminding me! being a penny-pincher, I have been using tap water with a couple drops of dish detergent in my WW reservoir across the summer. Guys, you can use non toxic propylene glycol in the block for cold storage.Everyone go get rid of that +32 windshield washer fluid you've been carelessly running all summer!
That marine block should already have blocks drains installed in each side at the bottom.Problem where I am is they can't call a low. They'll call for 28f and we'll get 24f.
Put a squirt of RV antifreeze in each side of the block.
Or install valves that drain all the water out of the lowest recess of the block.
Well, nothing might not have been the nicest way to say it.I'm quite certain it would not be useless. MANY folks have kept an engine from freezing by throwing an incandescent light bulb in the engine bay. My batteries and charger (15 amp) are sitting in that closed engine bay with a fabric cover over the boat. The heat generated by the charger and batteries would certainly do something to keep that bay area above freezing...no doubt at all.
Yes, yes...I know how to winterize an I/O...I do appreciate the reply though. I will have to drive the boat from the slip to the trailer...so hate to do the winterization work twice.Well, freezing is freezing. It would depend if the engine compartment goes below freezing and for how long. It would also depend if the weather forecast is correct. What if it goes down to 25f? I would throw an incandescent light bulb in there or if an option lower the boat into the water.
A others mentioned you can also look to find the drain peacocks on the block and manifolds. Insert a wire to make sure they drain. All sounds like to much work for a temporary reprieve though.
Sure get cold in Iowa, wait untl it gets in the single digits place your charger under there and report back after the winter is over.
OK, then you have answered your own question, or were looking for validation.Yes it does, and why I do a proper winterization every fall. We have had unseasonably warm weather that allowed that fall task to slip down the list.
Yes. But if the block is 50F and air is 28F you heat some of the air up around the block a little and then move it away for new air that is 28F you again heat some of the air up around the block. With wind you are constantly doing that. With no wind the block heats up some air around the block and it kind of stays there.Wind speed is irrelevant. Inanimate objects sense only the actual temperature and not wind chill.
Because Iowa winters are cold and routinely overnight lows will be -20F and an occasional -30F.If your charger idea would work, then why do the winterization?
I agree.Because Iowa winters are cold and routinely overnight lows will be -20F and an occasional -30F.
If there is no water/antifreeze mix in the block, then it would not freeze and cause problems. Drain ALL of the coolant if in question.Maybe this belongs in the boating section, but I was thinking it would apply to race cars, and anything where folks might not use anti-freeze.
Tonight is supposed to dip down to 28F...my boat is still sitting on the water (on a lift, out of the water, but under a cover). Obviously the water temp is still well above freezing...but with the boat sitting 2 foot off the top of the water, it makes me nervous. I was thinking of running down there and at least plugging in the battery charger which sits in the engine compartment, and would create heat along with the batteries.
So...what air temp would freeze and crack a block? Iron heads, Iron block in this case...
This is incorrect. Moving air 100% has an effect on the removal of heat.Wind speed is irrelevant. Inanimate objects sense only the actual temperature and not wind chill.
Wind speed is irrelevant. Inanimate objects sense only the actual temperature and not wind chill.
It's common here for people to discover that their car's block heater is not working. This tends to happen on a very cold day after the engine fails to start.I'm quite certain it would not be useless. MANY folks have kept an engine from freezing by throwing an incandescent light bulb in the engine bay. My batteries and charger (15 amp) are sitting in that closed engine bay with a fabric cover over the boat. The heat generated by the charger and batteries would certainly do something to keep that bay area above freezing...no doubt at all.