Advice wanted for new Mazda3 2.5 non-turbo

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Jul 31, 2012
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New York
Hello, all, I sadly got rid of my Acura TL for good reasons which I would rather not get into now..
Now I am the proud owner of a Mazda3 hatch with a manual transmission. For 2023, the car has a 13.1 compression ratio, cylinder deactivation and (I believe) Direct injection. The horsepower went up by 5 from the 2022 model, so there were some changes made to the engine.


I've never owned a Mazda before.

Any advice on breaking in? Is hard acceleration to seat the rings still a thing?
The factory recommendation 10k OCI, which of course, being a BITOG guy, I will never let happen.
Any advice as to how long before I dump the FF? When I bought by Acura, the dealer discouraged me from getting the first OC too soon, I guess because the FF had some special sauce in it.

I will use only Mazda oil filter (although because it's a 2023, the application charts aren't up yet for this model year) because I know that is an issue.
 
Congrats on the new Mazda.

Drive it normally and sensibly. No special break-in is needed.

Dumping the factory fill is a personal decision. I used to dump mine at 1000miles. You will have to decide for yourself and you will get answers both ways here. Do it yourself so you can get underneath and visually check everything.

Using the OEM filters is best. The Thailand Roki filters are preferable over the Mexican value filters.

Go with a 5000 mile OCI. Use any major brand of 0W-20.
 
The factory recommendation 10k OCI,
That looks good in the sales brochure as a low maintenance vehicle for people who only plan to keep it 3-5 years. If you plan on long term ownership, change the oil and filter at 1,000 and 3,000 miles, then 4-5K after. You don't need to be obsessive, a few 6 or 7K changes wont matter.
 
That looks good in the sales brochure as a low maintenance vehicle for people who only plan to keep it 3-5 years. If you plan on long term ownership, change the oil and filter at 1,000 and 3,000 miles, then 4-5K after. You don't need to be obsessive, a few 6 or 7K changes wont matter.
For the general population, this is probably good advice.
 
Congrats on the new Mazda.

Drive it normally and sensibly. No special break-in is needed.

Dumping the factory fill is a personal decision. I used to dump mine at 1000miles. You will have to decide for yourself and you will get answers both ways here. Do it yourself so you can get underneath and visually check everything.

Using the OEM filters is best. The Thailand Roki filters are preferable over the Mexican value filters.

Go with a 5000 mile OCI. Use any major brand of 0W-20.
Thank you, obviously by your avatar, you are Mazda-experience, any idea how to tell if I have an M engine or an L-code engine?
 
I love the Mazda 2.0/2.5's. Very reliable engines. No special break-in is required. The Skyactiv engines I've had never consumed any measurable amount of oil. Any quality synthetic is fine. I prefer 5k intervals in these engines.
 
I know what you're saying re the special torque converter, but in Europe at least the 6MT versions also get CD. Mazda was toying with less fleet wide application of CD for a while but I believe CD in almost all drivetrain configurations is back in play. That is to say, other than the turbo's.
 
For the OP, I would say this: pay particular attention to prompt attendance of rock chips touch-up; if you can, scuff-up, prime, and topcoat all subframes and suspension members; and finally - be aware that the clearcoat is ultra-thin: do NOT be overzealous in any polishing-out of paint flaws or scratches 😐.
 
Nice manual ride. No break in is needed just drive it normally. As for oil since it's a non turbo engine so 0w-20 would be fine. But I prefer to lug my manuals to get a more mpg's below highway speeds and if you lug a little it's not a bad thing just use a thicker grade to get better mpg without hurting anything. As for the filter the oem mazda ones aren't anything special but aren't bad at all. But I'd get a fram ultra since it filters better.
 
I don't know if they changed anything in the last few years, but I did similar research to what you are doing now for our new '17 Mazda 6 6MT with the Skyactive 2.5. What I found was the FF was a high moly Idemitsu 0-20. I went with a similar Idemitsu high moly for the first 2 changes, to get it well past the break in period. Then switched over to M1 AP I found on sale.
Based upon fear and superstition rather than scientific fact, my belief is if Mazda felt the engine should use a high moly oil for the break in period I would be hesitant to change it out early unless I replaced it with a like substitute.

The Mazda 6 only gets about 3-4k miles a year on it. Changes were annual during the warranty period, now they are extended to about 18 months to get closer to the 5k mile mark. Moisture and cold tripping aren't much of a problem where I live.
 
...
Any advice on breaking in? Is hard acceleration to seat the rings still a thing?
...
I raced a '95 RX-7 twin turbo in SCCA, and I own a '14 Mazda 3 hatchback with about 50k miles on it. Both cars were/are reliable under spirited/aggressive driving.
During breakin, vary the gears & speeds & throttle as much as you can. I ran the FF for 3000 (longer than I usually do with new cars) just in case it had a different breakin formulation.
Generally speaking, Mazda engines like to be driven in a spirited manner, not to be babied or driven like your grandma would. This is great for people like you and me who prefer manual transmissions. One of the design features of the Skyactiv engine is the valves are designed to run hot in order to discourage DI deposit formation (it also has an OEM air-oil separator in the PCV line). After it's broken in, don't hesitate to give it the occasional Italian tuneup.
 
Worry about something important. Just drive the car.
For the OP, I would say this: pay particular attention to prompt attendance of rock chips touch-up; if you can, scuff-up, prime, and topcoat all subframes and suspension members; and finally - be aware that the clearcoat is ultra-thin: do NOT be overzealous in any polishing-out of paint flaws or scratches 😐.
I am assuming that is due to potential rusting? Do you think I could get buy with spraying those parts with a Corrosion X?
 
I am assuming that is due to potential rusting? Do you think I could get buy with spraying those parts with a Corrosion X?
I've noticed vehicles with wheel well splash/mud guards have less rocker rust since moving to PA, get those if you can. If you are going to keep the car get it undercoated w Woolwax or Fluid Films or similar lanolin before the salt starts to go down. Easy to do yourself if you wish to attempt it. I bought the spray kit from them and it is easy w my smaller air compressor.
I'd go to a 1k or 2k w FF and use whatever you want for oil but like others have said do the 5k mile oci's.
 
I'm a dedicated Mazda guy. Currently have a 18 3 and a 21 cx5 CE turbo. Had a 14 6 and a 16 cx5 before the current two. Except for the turbo all were 2.5 NAs. Early on I had a 82 RX7, 99 Miata and a 05 6. All the 2.5 NA motors got 5K intervals with QS 0w20 (it has a healthy dose of moly like the Mazda factory fill). I used (and still use) Fram Tough Guard filters in the NA 2.5's. Mazda's have proven (at least to me) to be well made nicely designed vehicles with fun to drive handling (zoom zoom).
 
You can fit an oversize filter if you wish. The 7317 size filter (Fram number system)
fits and allows a wide variety of filter brands. I prefer Fram UG (gold) filters myself.
The turbo engines gets a 5000 mile OCI, the NA can go longer as you wish.
7500 is a reasonable medium.

My 2¢
 
I am assuming that is due to potential rusting? Do you think I could get buy with spraying those parts with a Corrosion X?
The corrosion spray may be superior, at least when it comes to boxed-in areas of some suspension members. Yes, you can get by, but roughening, red oxide primer, and then topcoating with an Alkyd is the most durable.
 
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