Just got my SUV back from a $2.5 k FluidFilm/PermaFilm application

[scip5.3L]

(Mods, not sure if this is the correct subforum, if not, please feel free to move it)

This was done in Germany where I am currently working.

I had picked them, because this was clearly the most serious place doing such applications, as it was the only one who said they needed to keep the car for up to 10 days for drying cycles.
This was not convienient to me as I lived 45 minutes away and so I needed a rental (which are fortunately cheap here).

Steps, that were done ( He sent me pics but it was via text not email and I have yet to move them to my email)

1 ) taking off the plastic and rubber trim pieces under the vehicle for access to metal surfaces they might otherwise cover.
2) cleaning the entire underside, drying. cleaning again
3) Spraying FluidFilm into all nooks and crannies into the cars body to include the hood, door bottoms and rear hatch. Spraying it on seams
4)spraying it into the box frame.
5) Painting the outside of the frame, suspension parts and many metal surfaces ( like the wheel wells under the rubber cladding and the underbody of the car) with Permafilm, a wax based protectant paint. It looks like a mostly transparent paint.
The entire bottom of the car is now covered in this. From laying under the car I cannot see any untreated steel (except brakes, exhaust/engine stuff like that)
6) Reattachment of rubber and plastic trim pieces.
7) drying

Interesting note.
The Gentleman told me he noticed that there was still a lot of consumer grade Fluid Film clinging to many surfaces on the underside, which he had to clean up, to ensure his wax based paint would stick.
This is interesting to me, because, it had been 16 months since that had been applied by me back in the US.

So it looks perhaps, the Consumer grade fluid film clings better than its reputation.
However, there were many places I knew I had sprayed that were completly bereft of my consumer grade FF application from Sep 2023 (when I had bought the vehicle new), so there is that.
Still I thought that tidbit was interesting.

PS: The guy also had a 30+ yr old MB, W124 300E in his shop.
Was told owner gets this done every 5-8 years. Car looks near new despite approx 30 years of age.

Its your money and you can spend it how you want but $2500 where I am from in Michigan is 10 years straight of FF applications done professionally.

 

[WeyounDS9]

Its your money and you can spend it how you want but $2500 where I am from in Michigan is 10 years straight of FF applications done professionally.

Fair point.
Could a less thorough less deep application been sufficient?
They do offer a fluid films only spray version for a fraction of the cost.

But 250 bucks would not have been enough to even pay for the cleaning prep of the undercarriage to the level neccessary to prep all surfaces for the wax paint. (4 hours, with the mud i had in there and subsequent alcohol based cleaner to prep surface)

Its kinda the different between getting a regular car wax done fo or a proper ceramic coating (with 2 alcohol based cleanings, drying sessions, paint correction, and application, they approach 35 hours of labor and more).
Can you get a detailer to do a handwash and good wax on your car for 250? yes, will it be like a professional ceramic coating ? No.

Perhaps there is a Parallel to that here.
Did I need this level of rust proofing for a car that comes with factory galvanized body panels, and a Nissan, Durasteel frame?
Perhaps not.
It was a lot of money, but it givers me peace of mind and its not the same as throwing the car on a rack and starting to spray.
That you can find places to do for 250 bucks i have no doubt ( at least in the US not here in germany)

 

[mikeduf]

For me I just can't see preserving my cars for the next guy. I just wash them, wax them twice a year for the hell of it.

 

[Hohn]

Almost anything will work in areas its not getting wet often or blasted by water and grit off the road. So spray cans of whichever rust proof stuff or even chainsaw oil with some tackifiers will last for a couple years at least. The trick is the spots like inside the sub frames that get blasted and wet all the time, and loaded up with salt and grit.
I do like the thoroughness of taking all the trim and shields off and it seems they leave themselves time to do a proper job of it. I hope there's a yearly touch up planned just for the areas blasted by spray directly.

Yup, the inside frame rails of my GX are still well-coated with Surface Shield after three years. There's almost nothing to wash it off so it lasts a long time.

 

[slackinoff]

Not trying to be fanboy just regurgitating my research.

Human beings have a tendency to justify any large expense they already made, to themsleves and others as great, I try not to fall into that trap.

True, but I say you don't need to justify your purchases to anyone but yourself or partner. I am glad you are happy with it and have shared it here!

Where I was raised, if someone is showing you something, you don't just openly start telling them how you think they overspent on it. That's a little bit rude. I don't think being online makes that any less unsavory. lol. Just for clarity, I don't think you did at all.

 

[Hohn]

True, but I say you don't need to justify your purchases to anyone but yourself or partner. I am glad you are happy with it and have shared it here!

Where I was raised, if someone is showing you something, you don't just openly start telling them how you think they overspent on it. That's a little bit rude. I don't think being online makes that any less unsavory. lol. Just for clarity, I don't think you did at all.

I'd like to compliment your parents for a job well done.

 

[PF52]

For me I just can't see preserving my cars for the next guy. I just wash them, wax them twice a year for the hell of it.

Well, sure, I suppose you can always trade them in every three years. We're not all made of money. The cars I like I keep for a very very long time and there is no "next guy".

 

[crashz]

That's really the proper way to coat the underside. I imagine if the car was brand new, with no miles and accumulated dirt underneath, it may have been cheaper.

I have done this to many vehicles in the past and to perform a decent job and really protect it, you need to get into every crevice. It takes a lot of work, and I find spots that I miss later on down the road. Its time consuming and messy.

Pics please!

 

[slackinoff]

That's really the proper way to coat the underside. I imagine if the car was brand new, with no miles and accumulated dirt underneath, it may have been cheaper.

I have done this to many vehicles in the past and to perform a decent job and really protect it, you need to get into every crevice. It takes a lot of work, and I find spots that I miss later on down the road. Its time consuming and messy.

Pics please!

That is a great point. Plus what if they not only did it while new, but as the vehicle was being built! Then it would be even easier to get into tough spots.

I don't think any of the manufactures have this option?, you know like a serious deal where they are literally assembling the car and doing it, and not just a simple undercoat thing. Maybe it's just too much to incorporate on an assembly line.

Also - yes I want to see some pics too! If you can @WeyounDS9

 

[brages]

For me I just can't see preserving my cars for the next guy. I just wash them, wax them twice a year for the hell of it.

Location: Seal Beach, California

 

[Danno]

We sell Mastershield here as a Mopar dealer. Part of it is black which is the undercarriage part and the other is the clear, very similar to the product the OP used on his vehicle. Used on door bottoms, sills, etc.
I prefer using a product that creeps over time and is applied annually. As does my very experienced lead detailer that sees every used vehicle come in with every anti rust product applied in our market. We both use Krown on our vehicles, annual application at about $100 US.

 

[WeyounDS9]

Pics show most the permafilm application on undercarruiage but some show the fluild film deep inside.
Especially the pics where you see somehting dripping out of a crevice or a hose pumping somehting inside.

 

[WeyounDS9]

 

[WeyounDS9]

 

[WeyounDS9]

Note:
The shop wire brushed every bolt that had started rusting before they applied the film on it, thats why none in the pics have even surface rust.

We also that found that Nissan had from the factory spray painted something over some select seam spots inside the body.
Add to that the fully galvanized body panels on an Armada and a frame made from the excellent Nissan rust-resistant Durasteel (backed up by my personal experience) perhaps this was not the most urgent vehicle to see such an application.

But they do salt a LOT here in Germany, and every winter drive over heavily salted roads gave me stress.

 

[carviewsonic]

$2500 is less expensive than parking the Armada each winter and buying a winter beater to drive instead.

 

[JHZR2]

Holy crap that's expensive labor. The materials are so cheap in bulk.

Sounds like they actually did a decent amount of disassembly, cleaning/washing, etc.

Over a decade ago I got waxoyl on one of my classic MB cars, and they insisted on pressure washing and drying. Doesn’t sound this involved, but it was around $1k.

 

[WeyounDS9]

Pics?

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