A2Z-FE High oil consumption- What type oil should I try? 2009 Toyota Matrix S 2.4L 175miles

[migratingoose]

You can do it while apart but evaporation loss may be more

Which Berrymans B12- Fuel injector cleaner or Carb choke and throttle cleaner?

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Low tension rings its likely nothing is going help short of a re-ring!

And new redesigned pistons. Might go another hundred thousand or so.

 

[Brian123]

Which Berrymans B12- Fuel injector cleaner or Carb choke and throttle cleaner?

Whatever is the Strongest, probably the Carb Stuff! Get the MMO out and do the Berryman stuff, put it in and see what happens. Maybe move the Pistons up and down a bit. I am guessing you are not the original owner of this vehicle?

 

[ripcord]

Spray carb cleaner might actually be a good idea if using the tube to get it down into the ring lands.

Eye protection!!

 

[wlk]

Which Berrymans B12- Fuel injector cleaner or Carb choke and throttle cleaner?

 

[Cujet]

MMO will not dissolve carbon around the oil ring and oil ring drain holes.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Did the shop that planed the head replace the valves, springs or valve seals? At least the seals since its a common oil consumption source? And, hope that you're using new timing components chains, tensioners, guides.... And, since the engine is ol' and tired, I would definitely adjust the valve clearance.

If you don't pull the pistons/rings, then you'll probably end up back where you started with excessive oil consumption continuing. Hopefully the engine isnt excessively damaged from the previous owners. One can only hope for carbon issues that'll slow clean itself with shorter oil change intervals, and quality synthetic oils.

My recommendation for the oil change interval is 3000 miles. Keep the oil level optimally topped off and full at every fuel fill up, weekly, or often enough to never allow it be low ever. After the reassembly, I would change the oil out early at 500 and 1500 miles for the break-in rinsing.

Stick with toptier fuel to keep the carbon buildup under control for the fuel side.

My oil filter recommendation.... the engine family has room for the ph3614 and fl400s/ph3600 oil filter. Pick any popular brand with a silicone adbv. I use the oversized filters on my 2az-fe. Since mine is overly well maintained, it never developed an oil consumption problem.

My oil type recommendation will ALWAYS be full synthetic oil. Brand is irrelevant so VARY the brands. Stick with HDEO's or PCMO's that have the EP, HM or EP and HM marketing. I prefer the higher HTHS euro 5w30's, 0w30's, ANY 5w40 or 0w40, and HDEO 10w30's. Obviously, you have plenty of PCMO EP/HM oil to rotate among... Valvoline, Mobil1, QuakerPennzoilState, RoyalPurple, Castrol, Petrocanada..... along with mailorder if within budget.... Amsoil, RedLine, HPL, Torco, MPT, and all those overpriced common euro brands that the MB/VW/Audio/BMW websites sell

Additives.... after a couple short rinse oil changes, and if you decide to keep the vehicle....use only 1 brand and 1 dose for any oil interval.
BG MOA.... they have several so try a different one for each normal oil change interval
Marvel MMO.... simple pint added for an oil change interval
Rislone.... again, a simple single pint added to your 3k mile interval
Lubegard Biotech
RLI BioSyn xtra booster pak
Auto-rx
STP Synthetic Oil treatment and their Ceramic
HPL engine cleaner
Seafoam(which can also be used as a piston soak)

The above list should take you 30000 miles to run thru so post an update in 30k miles.

Don't forget a good 50:50 or 45water55coolant antifreeze ratio using asian red/pink coolant or Toyota coolant, new OE thermostat and radiator/pressure cap, OE waterpump, serpentine belt, OE equivalent ATF(or MT if manual), pcv valve, synth PSF/ATF if hydraulic steering..

Since some 2az-fe had block head bolt thread issues, consider since the head is off, or at least timeserts... pretty sure its less of an issue with the latest years 2az
https://www.timesert.com/html/toyota.html
https://www.huhnsolutions.com/
http://www.northstarperformance.com/toyotakits.php

 

[Shel_B]

If you are going through the trouble of replacing the head gasket, you might as well drop the oil pan a do the re-ring.

Before doing that, if you pull the head to replace the gasket, check the condition of the bores while the head is off. Be sure there's no scoring, scratches, or damage to the bores. Oil burning of the amount you're describing is sometimes more than just sticky rings.

 

[doublebase]

I’d be more worried that you’ll have even more oil consumption once you put that new head gasket and plained head back on...that thing should be even more air tight now, and the added compression will draw that oil right into those cylinders. IMO.

You really should fix your oil consumption issue now seeing as you went through the trouble of doing the head gasket. And did I miss it, why did you do the head gasket? Was it overheating? Losing coolant?

 

[PapaChu]

My A2Z-FE engine is consuming a large amount of oil- what oil should I use? It's a 2009 Toyota Matrix S 2.4L with 175 miles. The Toyota piston/rings High Oil consumption Service Bulletin was not performed as best as I can tell from talking to Toyota. What brand, viscosity, and oil additives can I try to reduce the consumption and extend the life of my otherwise fantastic little car? Can anyone link me to past threads? I'm searched but am only finding references to them. Thoughts on Valvoline Maxlife? Which viscosity? I was using Castro High milage 5W30 and that didn't help.

This may be late, but here’s my 2 cents. I’ve got the same car—2009 Matrix S 2.4L—with 137k miles. Mine burns about 1 quart every 4,000 miles, so not quite catastrophic, but still annoying. Based on what you’re describing, I’d say the likely culprit is bad piston rings.

Toyota issued a warranty extension for this issue, but unfortunately, it expired several years ago—before I picked mine up. If you haven’t already, I’d recommend having your local Toyota dealer run your VIN to confirm whether the ring replacement was ever performed. Unless you’re the original owner, it’s the best way to verify.

If the rings were replaced, then it’s probably something else (PCV system, valve stem seals, or even cylinder wall wear). But if they weren’t, then yeah—you’re fighting the same uphill battle I am. And unfortunately, nothing short of a rebuild, used engine, or pro refurb will really fix it. All pricey options, and used motors come with their own gamble of unknown ring condition.

Given the cost, I’ve decided to just top it off and keep driving it. It’s still a great little car otherwise. I am planning to try Valvoline Restore & Protect soon—maybe in 5W-30 given my climate—and see if it slows things down. But ultimately, I’ve just made peace with keeping it fed and rolling.