Another B12 Chemtool Piston Soak Oil burner success with Toyota 2AZ-FE

[FALARAK]

2006 Toyota RAV4 with 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine, purchased with 131,000 miles.
This vehicle had a Carfax with documented oil changes (most at dealerships) every 5000-6000 miles for its entire life.

It burns oil. A LOT of oil. 1 QT of oil every 300 miles on the highway at 75mph and 1 QT every ~600 miles around town driving.

After watching the YouTube videos on some success using B12 Chemtool, I decided to give it a shot.

Here is what I did:

6/2/24 - 135832 miles
B12 Chemtool piston soak, then oil change.

6/30/24 - 135860 miles
Changed oil again to remove any residual Chemtool and any debris that might have come loose from the Chemtool circulating in the system
Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with a Wix XP filter
Installed new spark plugs NGK irridiums

7/23/24 - 136149 miles
Checked oil, no movement, still touching full mark - 289 miles since oil change, all around town local driving.

8/3/2024 - 136314 miles
Started 819 mile highway trip. oil level still touching full mark.

8/3/2024 - 137133 miles
Completed 819 mile highway trip. Oil is 3/4 full between the marks, it consumed 1/4 quart on the trip.

So 819 miles on this highway trip, and a total of 1273 miles since last OC.
It is exactly 1/4 QT low. Since it was still touching the full mark at the start of this trip, that's 1/4 QT burned over 819 miles at highway speeds.
Previously, it would have consumed 2.75 quarts of oil on that trip.
The B12 Chemtool piston soak made a HUGE difference in this engine. Using 800 miles per 1/4th QT, that's 3200 miles per quart of oil, which is totally acceptable to me.

I am hoping if the Valvoline Restore and Protect does its job over time - it will at least keep the problem from returning and might even see some improvement on consumption after 4 OCI's.

This result is WAY better than I was even hoping to see.

B12 Piston Soak procedure I used

• Remove spark plugs
• Get a small wooden dowel rod to use as a piston positioning gauge to help when rotating cylinders. You need it about 16" long. You can get 1/4" dowel rod for $1 at Lowes/Home Depot
• Use a socket with extensions and connect to the crankshaft bolt. Rotate clockwise. Get all pistons to relatively the same depth so the dowel rod is close to the same depth in each.
• I poured in a little less than 2 ounces (I used a shot glass to measure) in each cylinder. Use a funnel, Chemtool is a STRONG solvent and you dont want spills.
• With chemtool in each cylinder, rotate the engine 3-4 times, VERY slowly. If you rotate too quickly you will spit out your chemtool. Stop with the cylinders relatively even.
• Loosely thread in each spark plug back in (just a few threads is fine) to control evaporation.
• Wait 4 hours.
• Repeat this step every 4-6 hours, until all Chemtool is consumed from two 15 ounce cans (4 soaks). I did two soaks in the evening, a long overnight soak, then two more the next day.
• After the final soak, remove loose spark plugs, and vaccuum out any residual chemtool. I used an air powered brake bleeder tool with some stiff tubing to get it all out, but a shop vac taped into small tubing would be fine.
• Blow out the cylinders with compressed air. I have an air gun with a 20" extended tip, helps to stick it down into the cylinder and blow out the carbon chunks that the chemtool lifts off the piston and rings.
• Pour in 2 ounces of motor oil into each cylinder, and manually rotate the engine 4 times. This is to lube the cylinder wall and rings so they can get compression, or it will be very hard to start.
• Vaccuum out the exceess oil from the cylinder.
• Reinstall spark plugs.
• Oil level will be a little high at this point, due to having the non-evaporated remnants of 15 ounces of Chemtool in the crankcase.
• Start engine and let idle for 5 minutes, shut off engine and drain oil. Do not drive or put any load on the engine with chemtool in it. It will smoke badly at first, as it is burning off the residual oil on the pistons, and any loose carbon left behind.
• After 5 minutes shut off engine, drain oil, and install new filter and cheap 5W-30 synthetic oil, for a short OCI. In less than 100 miles, change this oil and filter, just in case there is contamination from Chemtool or sludge broken loose.
• Change oil and filter with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 and Wix XP filter.

 

[D60]

Visit your LWS for some Al TIG rod. Can be purchased in various lengths. Easily cut with dykes. Smaller than a wooden dowel. Can be gently bent to clear engine bay components. Still soft so won't damage a thing.

 

[berniedd]

Do the B12 soak again towards the end of your current oil fill? You might improve some more on the oil consumption.

 

[FALARAK]

Do the B12 soak again towards the end of your current oil fill? You might improve some more on the oil consumption.

I might if I can. The vehicle is away off at college - and it likely won't be near the next OCI until next summer. I'll be interested to see how much oil gets consumed between now and then.

 

[michaelluscher]

Good work

The B12 piston soak is becoming quite a method in improving oil consumption
I'm thinking of other ways to enhance it, maybe mixing in a BG109 idle flush shortly after, HPL EC after, something to get in a little deeper with the passages made by the solvent soak

 

[Elkins45]

Good work

The B12 piston soak is becoming quite a method in improving oil consumption
I'm thinking of other ways to enhance it, maybe mixing in a BG109 idle flush shortly after, HPL EC after, something to get in a little deeper with the passages made by the solvent soak

If MMO in the crankcase is a 1 and a Berryman’s soak is a 10, I would rate a 30 minute idle with BG 109 at around a 6.5 IMO. I’m doing a BG treatment on both of mine as preventative maintenance at the next change.

 

[BrendanC]

If MMO in the crankcase is a 1 and a Berryman’s soak is a 10, I would rate a 30 minute idle with BG 109 at around a 6.5 IMO. I’m doing a BG treatment on both of mine as preventative maintenance at the next change.

do a berrymans soak followed directly behind with a BG EPR run. has worked wonders. also, don’t idle with EPR, run it up to 2-2.5k rpm for 20-30 minutes. longer the better in my book.

 

[jayjr1105]

I'd like to do this on my Volvo 3.2 eventually. It's not terrible but I know it can be improved.

 

[MrQuackers]

2006 Toyota RAV4 with 2.4L 2AZ-FE engine, purchased with 131,000 miles.
This vehicle had a Carfax with documented oil changes (most at dealerships) every 5000-6000 miles for its entire life.

It burns oil. A LOT of oil. 1 QT of oil every 300 miles on the highway at 75mph and 1 QT every ~600 miles around town driving.

After watching the YouTube videos on some success using B12 Chemtool, I decided to give it a shot.

Here is what I did:

6/2/24 - 135832 miles
B12 Chemtool piston soak, then oil change.

6/30/24 - 135860 miles
Changed oil again to remove any residual Chemtool and any debris that might have come loose from the Chemtool circulating in the system
Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with a Wix XP filter
Installed new spark plugs NGK irridiums

7/23/24 - 136149 miles
Checked oil, no movement, still touching full mark - 289 miles since oil change, all around town local driving.
Qq
8/3/2024 - 136314 miles
Started 819 mile highway trip. oil level still touching full mark.

8/3/2024 - 137133 miles
Completed 819 mile highway trip. Oil is 3/4 full between the marks, it consumed 1/4 quart on the trip.

So 819 miles on this highway trip, and a total of 1273 miles since last OC.
It is exactly 1/4 QT low. Since it was still touching the full mark at the start of this trip, that's 1/4 QT burned over 819 miles at highway speeds.
Previously, it would have consumed 2.75 quarts of oil on that trip.
The B12 Chemtool piston soak made a HUGE difference in this engine. Using 800 miles per 1/4th QT, that's 3200 miles per quart of oil, which is totally acceptable to me.

I am hoping if the Valvoline Restore and Protect does its job over time - it will at least keep the problem from returning and might even see some improvement on consumption after 4 OCI's.

This result is WAY better than I was even hoping to see.

B12 Piston Soak procedure I used

• Remove spark plugs
• Get a small wooden dowel rod to use as a piston positioning gauge to help when rotating cylinders. You need it about 16" long. You can get 1/4" dowel rod for $1 at Lowes/Home Depot
• Use a socket with extensions and connect to the crankshaft bolt. Rotate clockwise. Get all pistons to relatively the same depth so the dowel rod is close to the same depth in each.
• I poured in a little less than 2 ounces (I used a shot glass to measure) in each cylinder. Use a funnel, Chemtool is a STRONG solvent and you dont want spills.
• With chemtool in each cylinder, rotate the engine 3-4 times, VERY slowly. If you rotate too quickly you will spit out your chemtool. Stop with the cylinders relatively even.
• Loosely thread in each spark plug back in (just a few threads is fine) to control evaporation.
• Wait 4 hours.
• Repeat this step every 4-6 hours, until all Chemtool is consumed from two 15 ounce cans (4 soaks). I did two soaks in the evening, a long overnight soak, then two more the next day.
• After the final soak, remove loose spark plugs, and vaccuum out any residual chemtool. I used an air powered brake bleeder tool with some stiff tubing to get it all out, but a shop vac taped into small tubing would be fine.
• Blow out the cylinders with compressed air. I have an air gun with a 20" extended tip, helps to stick it down into the cylinder and blow out the carbon chunks that the chemtool lifts off the piston and rings.
• Pour in 2 ounces of motor oil into each cylinder, and manually rotate the engine 4 times. This is to lube the cylinder wall and rings so they can get compression, or it will be very hard to start.
• Vaccuum out the exceess oil from the cylinder.
• Reinstall spark plugs.
• Oil level will be a little high at this point, due to having the non-evaporated remnants of 15 ounces of Chemtool in the crankcase.
• Start engine and let idle for 5 minutes, shut off engine and drain oil. Do not drive or put any load on the engine with chemtool in it. It will smoke badly at first, as it is burning off the residual oil on the pistons, and any loose carbon left behind.
• After 5 minutes shut off engine, drain oil, and install new filter and cheap 5W-30 synthetic oil, for a short OCI. In less than 100 miles, change this oil and filter, just in case there is contamination from Chemtool or sludge broken loose.
• Change oil and filter with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 and Wix XP filter.

Very nice! I purchased a twelve pack of 12 inch dowels for 2 bucks

 

[Elkins45]

Very nice! I purchased a twelve pack of 12 inch dowels for 2 bucks

12” might just drop below the top of the valve cover if the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Be careful.

 

[MrQuackers]

12” might just drop below the top of the valve cover if the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Be careful.

In my application it was more than sufficient but good to be cautious, good advice

 

[Urshurak776]

I just did this with the Kia Rio. Seemed to go well. I didn’t bother with where the pistons were. Not sure why that matters? Just poured in a couple ounces per cylinder. Rotated a few times. Added a little more. Let it sit for 4 hours. Repeat. Did it for 24 hours total. Last rotation added just MMO. Made sure cylinders were clear of excess liquid, put spark plugs back in. Fired it up. Let idle 15 minutes. Did oil / filter change. Having son drive it for a week then will change spark plugs.

 

[ripcord]

@FALARAK, do you have an update for us? How is the consumption after a month of driving?

 

[FALARAK]

@FALARAK, do you have an update for us? How is the consumption after a month of driving?

He still has not had to top up at all. Around town driving the consumption is very near zero. He checked it the other morning and after sitting all night, it was nearly to the upper line still. So it really hasn't even consumed 1/4th of a quart since we did the last oil change.

 

[skaughtz]

He still has not had to top up at all. Around town driving the consumption is very near zero. He checked it the other morning and after sitting all night, it was nearly to the upper line still. So it really hasn't even consumed 1/4th of a quart since we did the last oil change.

I am finally going to get around doing this to my oil chugging Camry. Is the consumption on yours still down?

Also, what is the purpose of starting it up with the B12 still in the crankcase after the soak is finished? Other than sacrificing oil, is there a reason to not drain it out completely, refill it, and then fire it up for the first time after the soak?

 

[Elkins45]

is there a reason to not drain it out completely, refill it, and then fire it up for the first time after the soak?

Not a good one IMO. The second time I soaked my Scion there was nearly a quart of Berryman's that had leaked down into the crankcase. I don't want something that thin between soft bearings and hard metal.

I just waited until it was time for an oil change anyway to do the soak.

 

[FALARAK]

Also, what is the purpose of starting it up with the B12 still in the crankcase after the soak is finished? Other than sacrificing oil, is there a reason to not drain it out completely, refill it, and then fire it up for the first time after the soak?

It's absolutely fine to drain it out (and probably the best advice). I just ran the engine for 5 minutes at idle with the Chemtool in it, to act as an engine flush to remove some sludge from the engine and crankcase.

Berryman has this to say on using B12 in the crankcase:

"Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine. If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter."

If you poured 30 ounces of Chemtool during the flush, even with evaporation you are quite a bit higher concentration than their recommended amount. I just figured a 5 minute idle run would not hurt. There has been one reported person who damaged their engine after this - but they took it for a drive and drove it VERY hard (multiple Italian tune-ups) with the Chemtool in the crankcase. To be on the very safe side, you can just drain it. I doubt it does anything for the original issue, which is the piston rings. But I observed no ill effects.

I did my first oil change after the piston soak with inexpensive Costco synthetic oil, and then 30 miles later changed that oil and filter over to Valvoline Restart and Protect. I was concerned that there might be a fair amount of sludge and deposits getting into the crankcase after these treatments, so that's why I did a short OCI. I cannot say there was any science behind it. And I wanted to get the R&P in there before my nephew took it to college.