4-stroke MXer oil?

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What type of oil would be good for an 06' Yamaha YZ250F? Currently using Rotella Syn T 5w/40, but with only a little more than 1 liter of oil and shared transmission, I'm thinking of using a Grp IV or V oil like Motul, Amsoil, or Maxima (don't trust M1 anymore) Any comments?
 
If i were you i would run eather amsoil's MCV 20w50 or
Mobil 1 MX4T 20w50, M1's Mc oil is a very good oil, one of the best..$.02

i run the MCV 20w50 in my Warrior and it loves it..
 
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What type of oil would be good for an 06' Yamaha YZ250F? Any comments?




oh i have a few comments for sure.
considering i have 90 hours on a 06YZ250F and had well over 400+ hours on a 01YZ250F AND i have over 3 dozen uoa's on these bikes.

1)m1 shears down in under 2 hours. a waste of money.

2) motul 5100 10w50 barely stays in grade for a 3 hour run.

3) maxima extra 15w50 did stay in grade quite well actually, but is very pricey. on low end of bang4buck scale.

4) amsoil's tech line says to not use more than 5 hours. it doesn't stay in grade at half of that time. huge waste of money.

5) no 10w40 tested will make 2 hours and be in grade. period!!!

6) of all the oils i have tested, there are more car oils that will stay in grade than those that are "motorcycle specific" or are jaso ma rated. pt barnum, pt barnum!!!

now for the rant section of the post
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new oil beats old oil any day of the week!!!

valvoline vr1 20w50 or sae50, exxon superflo sae 30, sae 40, 20w50 and shell rotella t (srt) white jug 15w40 will stay in grade longer than all (but equal to maxima extra 15w50) at a fraction of the cost. when srt and xom can be had for $4 - $8 per GALLON you have to wonder just how stupid people are for paying 7.99 a quart. for less protection!

oh and check out www.thumpertalk.com
 
there are a few on here already that shows what i have said.

your attitude is once again proof why i will never post uoa info again on here and wish i could have removed.
the constant negatives have never approached the positives.
 
the thing i'm trying to get at here is if there is a better oil out
there i would like to know and maybe try it,but in till i know different
i think Amsoil and M1 MC oil's are great, i've had VERY good luck
with both holding up over the pass years i've road ATV's and moto4's,never any oil related problems..

so next time you may not want to mention UOA's if you don't
want to post them..
 
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maybe you should spend $800 at blackstone to come up with your own conclusions.



Who's got the attitude now
laugh.gif
, you come on here and rave
how you got all these UOA's but don't want or know how
to post 'em to help other reader's out that maybe wanting
to decide what type of oil to run,nice
cheers.gif
... oh and i have my own
conclusions,, how, by real world testing and ya know they
both passed in my application.

now with respect to the poster, moving on............
 
a simple search of the motorcycle used oil analysis shows you with ZERO posts. hmmmmm

and yet i have several from the year before you joined. hmmmmm
 
Sunruh, your UOAs are unsettling as I rode that bike for 3 days in Utah in the dust and high heat and never changed the oil. I had Rotella T in it then. That's why I became concerned. BTW, where do you live in Texas? I go there and ride with my nephew in N. Cent. TX (Bulcher, TX)
 
Those who ride these bikes do see all the work and money Sunruh has done. Thanks Sunruh, although the wr400f is long gone
frown.gif
the rest of the world needs to know clean oil is the best for these bikes
cheers2.gif
 
Sunruh, I went back and read all your UOAs for the YZ250f and was very surprised. Those little motors really chew up oil! You sold me on XOM 20w-50, Thanks
 
ZGRider, Falling out of grade quickly, say down to a 30, may not be a good thing for a 40 or 50 and make one think about buying that brand again, but doesn't equate to engine damage from my experience. We START with 30w in those engines and change after every race weekend. Windage from shrink wrapped crankcases, high rpm, fuel dilution from low tension rings and slipper pistons, miniscule oil capacity,heat, big pressure differentials in the case (vent huffs and puffs a lot but not enough) are just a few things that make these thing real hard on oil compared to other bike engines. So to say brand A oil worked good in my superXX 350, and the yz tears it up in short order is not surprising at all, and doesn't make brand A oil a bad oil in another application.
 
I wonder even though it fell out of grade, did it protect the engine any less? Just wondering?
 
Quote:


I wonder even though it fell out of grade, did it protect the engine any less? Just wondering?




impossible to measure.

why?

because you would have to have 2 identical bikes, ridden by identical clones, at the same rpm every picosecond for every revolution of their crank AND disassembled at identical times in identical ways to ensure that everything was done identically. at that point you would need a scanning electron microscope to prove the difference of the parts that were identical when the tests started.

honestly, probably not.

what is most interesting is when an sae30 has a lower starting viscosity, but after use ends up with a better USED viscosity then some of the "big name" oils that started with a higher viscosity oil. never mind if they were jaso ma rated or "motorcycle specific" either.

wiley is absolutely correct. what works in one, don't work in another. i proved that with havoline. the harley boys says it is awesome in theirs (identical to a slow v8) and in a yz250f, it gets chewed up and spit out in short order.
 
sunruh

I am in Canada and use the Esso XD-3 oil in either the 0-W40 or 0-W30 lineup. I am doing 5 hour intervals. The oil works out to about $4.50 a litre CDN. vs a non syn XD-3 15W40 for about $3 litre. Have you tested either XD-3 oil? Any word on the stability of those oils?

I always thought 5 hours was a little premature by industry standards but did my oil changes anyways. Would you suggest going down to even a 3 or 4 hour interval?
 
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