Help me decide what oil to use in new KTM

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These are the primary anti-friction/anti-wear additives used in motor oils.

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If only M1 made a 10w50 MC oil with the add pack of 20w50 V-Twin!

The other option that has gobs of all of this is Redline.

I may do a couple VOAs of MC oils that aren’t already posted.

I used to spend a decent amount of time here on BITOG 10 years ago. Took about a 7-8 year sabbatical when life happened…wife, kids, building a business, etc.

I stopped at a MC shop today that had some Spectro 10w50 Platinum 4 Synthetic marked down 40% off so I picked up the 4 quarts they had. The back of the bottle says Motorex AG. It appears Motorex purchased Spectro last year.

Not sure if I’m going to run it right away, but it would be a great candidate for a VOA!

I can’t find a PDS for the spectro online.. just the 40C Vis of 139 from the MSDS. I will email them tho.
 
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top secret...........................call a KTM dealer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ask what oil to use and use it and dont cut corners on your machine of course I know everything,,,,,,,,,,,,,llol........................
 
I like and use Motul 300V 4T in all 5 sportbikes. I have yet to find an oil that I prefer over it, and I've tried just about everything available over the years. Redline would be a second choice. They do make a 10w50.
 
I like and use Motul 300V 4T in all 5 sportbikes. I have yet to find an oil that I prefer over it, and I've tried just about everything available over the years. Redline would be a second choice. They do make a 10w50.

I’ve been looking at the redline. I actually have some in my cart. Do you see any issues with the high ZDDP of Redline and the catalytic converter?
 
If only M1 made a 10w50 MC oil with the add pack of 20w50 V-Twin!
As always, the anti-wear additive package should only come into play when viscosity alone can't do the job. To that end, a 10W-50 will shear and lose viscosity, regardless of who makes it. There is no magic here.

Also, there are valid arguments that the wide viscosity spread oils, such as 5W-50 and 10W-50, may not provide the same protection (film thickness) as say, a straight 50.

We would have to search long and hard for a more robust oil than M1 20W-50VT. There is a reason huge HP turbocharged race engines survive on this oil. It holds up.
 
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As always, the anti-wear additive package should only come into play when viscosity alone can't do the job. To that end, a 10W-50 will shear and lose viscosity, regardless of who makes it. There is no magic here.

Also, there are valid arguments that the wide viscosity spread oils, such as 5W-50 and 10W-50, may not provide the same protection (film thickness) as say, a straight 50.

We would have to search long and hard for a more robust oil than M1 20W-50VT. There is a reason huge HP turbocharged race engines survive on this oil. It holds up.
My only true reservation using the 20w50 V-Twin is cold flow performance on cold starts at 50F. Is this a legitimate concern? I live in the Midwest so I do some riding as cold as 50F.

Otherwise it seems ideal. Good price,availability, good ZDDP, Boron, Moly and a stout HTHS.
 
I’ve been looking at the redline. I actually have some in my cart. Do you see any issues with the high ZDDP of Redline and the catalytic converter?

I was referring to Motul 300V 4T when I said they make a 10w50, I should have been more clear.

Redline makes a 10w50 too. It does have high levels of ZDDP.

Only one bike has it's factory exhaust system, with 3 catalytic converters. The others are running full Ti Akrapovič exhaust systems. I still would choose Motul 300V 4T over Redline for my bikes, even though I'm usually a fan of Redline products, and can get Redline for less.
 
My only true reservation using the 20w50 V-Twin is cold flow performance on cold starts at 50F. Is this a legitimate concern? I live in the Midwest so I do some riding as cold as 50F.

Otherwise it seems ideal. Good price,availability, good ZDDP, Boron, Moly and a stout HTHS.
With a pour point of -42ºF, the M1 20W-50 will provide adequate start up flow at any reasonable motorcycling temperatures. Including days that are below freezing.

As a general rule, a non synthetic, high quality racing 20W-50 might have a pour point of -20ºF or higher.
 
Here's a post I made in another thread about using different W rated oils. The XSR900 manual says don't use 20W-50 (or 20W-40) below 50F, which is 45F above the min CCV for a 20W per SAE J300. They are being conservative for a reason I'd think.

BTW, the pour point and the CCV do not always correlate, and it's best to go by J300 because the W grade rating is there for a reason based on CCV and MRV specs. If you went by J300, the lowest a 20W could be used is 5F (-15C). The notes and the J300 in the XSR900 chart were added by me for reference.

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Here's a post I made in another thread about using different W rated oils. The XSR900 manual says don't use 20W-50 (or 20W-40) below 50F, which is 45F above the min CCV for a 20W per SAE J300. They are being conservative for a reason I'd think.

BTW, the pour point and the CCV do not always correlate, and it's best to go by J300 because the W grade rating is there for a reason based on CCV and MRV specs. If you went by J300, the lowest a 20W could be used is 5F (-15C). The notes and the J300 in the XSR900 chart were added by me for reference.

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That compares nicely to the chart in my brothers Suzuki Manual. I ordered some Amsoil MFF 15w50 Metric oil. I’m going to give that that a try.
 
I’ve been looking at the redline. I actually have some in my cart. Do you see any issues with the high ZDDP of Redline and the catalytic converter?
It's MA/MA2 rated, zinc content can't be held for or against you at that point. Only issue will be if it's an oil burner, then you have other warranty problems. Otherwise, zinc won't make it to the CAT to be an issue.

Boron is a great anti-wear. Doesn't rely on high temp/high pressure as a last resort like Zinc to come into play. Boron is active as soon as you turn the key to start the bike.

As for the cold flow of 20w50 M1, I have used it through the Colorado winter in my ZRX1200 for those nice days that a guy can ride. Temps are at/ below freezing at night in the garage (day temps get in the 40's or 50's) and have no problems starting or concerns about protection for that short time.

Amsoil 15w50 should be a great choice.
 
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top secret...........................call a KTM dealer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ask what oil to use and use it and dont cut corners on your machine of course I know everything,,,,,,,,,,,,,llol........................
They're going to say use Motorex which has proven to be very sheer prone and in the UOA's Ive seen, not that remarkable.
 
It's MA/MA2 rated, zinc content can't be held for or against you at that point. Only issue will be if it's an oil burner, then you have other warranty problems. Otherwise, zinc won't make it to the CAT to be an issue.

Boron is a great anti-wear. Doesn't rely on high temp/high pressure as a last resort like Zinc to come into play. Boron is active as soon as you turn the key to start the bike.

As for the cold flow of 20w50 M1, I have used it through the Colorado winter in my ZRX1200 for those nice days that a guy can ride. Temps are at/ below freezing at night in the garage (day temps get in the 40's or 50's) and have no problems starting or concerns about protection for that short time.

Amsoil 15w50 should be a great choice.
I'm planning on using Liquimoly 15w-50 in my 890. This is in anticipation of a trip to the mountains of Colorado in July.
 
Is the specific oil being chosen for your trip to the mountains in Colorado, as earlier on you said 10w50 is what you have been using. I wouldn't make an oil weight choice based on coming out here. Run what you brung as the 50 on the top end is what you need, the bottom number for summer is pretty much immaterial when comparing 10w50 vs 15w50 if Liquimoly is a good oil to begin with and not shear prone, IMO/IME.
 
Is the specific oil being chosen for your trip to the mountains in Colorado, as earlier on you said 10w50 is what you have been using. I wouldn't make an oil weight choice based on coming out here. Run what you brung as the 50 on the top end is what you need, the bottom number for summer is pretty much immaterial when comparing 10w50 vs 15w50 if Liquimoly is a good oil to begin with and not shear prone, IMO/IME.
For sure, im not too worried about cold flow properties. Realistically we will only be camping for one night in the rockies (likely hotel anyways haha) then staying the night in Parker. I just got a good deal on the LM product so I'll run that. Lots of 100+ Temps crossing from Arizona, Utah and into Colorado...Then back south.

The bike already sounds like a bunch of marbles in a tin can when I bought it. Something about the cam tensioner. The 790/890 Parallel World section has lots of posts about this.
 
I'm planning on using Liquimoly 15w-50 in my 890. This is in anticipation of a trip to the mountains of Colorado in July.
I went with Amsoil 15w50 metric.

These engine as you said sound like a bag of marbles idling. It may be placebo, but mine sounds quieter with the 15w50 metric than whatever the factory fill was.

My brother even mentioned it sounded quieter. He has a Suzuki GSX-8S which has almost no noticeable valvetrain noise.


Our KTMs have clear flood, so if you run into a cold cold morning in the mountains you can hold the throttle wide open and crank it to get oil pressure up before it fires. As soon as you release the throttle it will start at a normal idle but already have the oil pressure up. Worked great for priming after I changed the oil.

I’ve also done it on occasion on a few cold mornings. Maybe a little hard on the starter, but it gets the oil to the top of the head before it’s up and running.
 
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