2025 Toyota Rav4 personal engine oil struggle.

Even if it doesn’t burn oil?

Yes, even if it doesn't burn oil. Ringland deposits are sort of like clogged arteries. Not really a problem...... until they are. Think of topping up your old engine like someone who is older and needs blood thinners to stay alive. It's best if you can avoid going down that path when younger with better lifestyle choices.

They both have a 0W winter rating. Fuel consumption during start and warmup is relatively insignificant. You’d never, ever observe a difference you could ascribe to the oil. No way.

Superior winter ratings aren’t there to save fuel when cold. Above the low maximum a 0W oil may be thicker than the corresponding 5W equivalent.

I hear what you are saying. a 0w30 is still more viscous than 0w16 at all stages of a full drive cycle or heat cycle if you will,
despite sharing, within range for a 0W, CCV and MRV specs.

Hear me out. The difference in fuel consumption is large between summer temps and winter temps, even on long trips where the engine is as warm as it can get.

If a 0w16 shifts the dynamic viscosity curve drastically in these much colder drive cycles like the KV40 and KV100 specs suggest they do, it should result in significantly decrease fuel consumption in the winter for my climate and for my shorter trips. Why wouldn't I at least try it, or a 0w20, next winter? I don't think I need to worry about HTHS in this engine in my winter climate.
 
VRP 0w16 when it comes out. VRP 0w20 in meantime.
There is no meaningful viscosity difference. Look at the curve and use 0w-20. I’ll take the slight extra protection every day. Maybe there might be some difference for someone driving at -20F all day.

My mileage for a Toyota Sienna Hybrid using 0w-20 in coastal Southern California winter (yes, very mild, plumbing to near freezing 33F but usually more like low 40’s at night to 60-70’s during the day) is 36.4 MPG. With 5w-30 it’s 36.2 MPG.

I see absolutely no reason to use 0w-8 unless some personal data shows a significant improvement in fuel efficiency. We are talking less than 1% or so diminishing returns here. Even 0w-16 is suspect. I’m pretty sure almost nobody will notice a difference in mileage between 0w-16 and 0w-20.

For most people who are not living in some sort of extreme weather, anything between 0w-16 through 5w-30 changed every 5K miles will be just fine.
 
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Is there a definitive answer for OCI, couldn't determine that will the posts.
I have always done 10K with my Toyos and don't mind sticking with 7.5K OCI using a quality synthetic (the filter is a concen), but 5K is an overkill. Although would prefer 10K, the manual is unclear and I don't even know what is the best for this 2.5L engine.
 
What bulk do they use? Just curios.
The local Toyota Dealer here uses "BP Nebraska" to fill their bulk tanks. BP meaning
What bulk do they use? Just curios.
They have an oil tanker straight truck that comes in and refills their oil tanks. The truck says BG Nebraska. BG Nebraska is part of the "BG Find a Shop" out of Wichita, Kansas, the same outfit that makes BG MOA oil additive.
 
What bulk do they use? Just curios.

Working at a Canadian dealer here.. the smaller dealership where i now work uses bulk 0w20 but every other grades comes in 208l drums from Toyota, so the 0w16 we use as "bulk" is essentially the same thing as the bottled 0w16 used for retail. The bigger dealership where i used to work used bulk 0w16, 0w20 and 5w20. Was using bottled 0w8 and (rarely) 5w30..

Ask what oil they are using. If it's from drums, it's the same oil from the same plant..
 
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Winter

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Summer

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It really doesn't matter, your 2.5L is bomb proof. 0w16 got me to 200,000 miles. I use 0w20 in summer because I got bored lol
 
If I bought a new Toyota that spec'd 0W16 I'd probably use Kirkland 0W20 since it's the 'thinnest' 0W20 out there (7.9 cSt @100*C IIRC), cheap and readily available. I'd do 5 to 7K OCIs depending on driving type (lower with city driving....higher with more highway miles).
I bet that Toyota engine would last just as long as it would if more expensive or 0W16 oil was used.
 
I am running 5W-30 in mine, because thats what I have around (Mobil 1 EP).

However if you wanted to run thinner I wonder if M1 0W-20 ESP has a higher HTHS than other brands in that grade, like 0W-30 ESP does compared to other xxx 30 oils?? Paging @edyvw ?
Actually it doesn’t compared to other 0W20; it is there 2.6 maybe 2.75cP. But it has stronger additive pack; higher ZDDP etc.
Also, it has stricter limits on Noack, deposits, stay in grade. If 0W20 off the shelf, I would definitely go this.
 
I am running 5W-30 in mine, because thats what I have around (Mobil 1 EP).

However if you wanted to run thinner I wonder if M1 0W-20 ESP has a higher HTHS than other brands in that grade, like 0W-30 ESP does compared to other xxx 30 oils?? Paging @edyvw ?
I don’t think anyone makes a 0W-20 with an HTHS above 2.7, except maybe HPL. Redline has a 5W-20 that is 3.0 though.

There just really isn’t a big need for a 0W-20 with that higher level, 99.999% of 0W-20 buyers aren’t concerned about that at all. And for anyone who would be wanting a higher HTHS, they will just go with a 30 grade.
 
I've bought several new cars in my life (8 that I can think of right now which doesn't include family members cars) and I've always done an early oil change and never had an oil burner. I've done the first OC as early as 1000 miles with 2500 miles being the longest (on my 2.5 Duratec Escape which has nearly 6 quarts in the sump.) I do believe there is a lot of wear metals in the first oil change but I also realize that many long-lived engines don't do an early oil change so I've compromised and went further on the FF.

Having said this....if I bought a new Toyota with the 2.5L engine I'd probably change the FF at about 2000 or 2500 miles and use TGMO 0w16 just in case the engineers want high moly for break-in (supposedly Honda wanted the FF kept in for at least 5K for this reason even though the high moly might have been from 'assembly lube'.) After that first oil change I'd go with Kirklland 0w20 every 5K which is very close to a 0w16, readily available and very inexpensive. I think that 2.5 would last just as long as if more pricey oils were used.
 
What year hybrid and country were these manual pages for?
Australia and I think 2022. Though the engine hasn't been changed with any bearing clearance difference just re tested to work with 0w-8 in the most latest models without excessive wear or at least what Toyota calls excessive I don't know for sure.
 
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