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Personal engine oil struggle. Dramatic thread title for sure.
2025 Toyota Rav4 personal engine oil struggle.
- Thread starter GI_GRIFF
- Start date
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Good/smart move on your part. No one should ever assume just because one uses a certain shop/dealership that they are going to always use what we expect them to. I would use the dealer service department, yet bring in your own oil and filter. I have done that route for so many years. Matter of fact I always do that when we purchase a new vehicle until it is out of warranty. Once warranty is up , I then do the changes at home. Enjoy the new machine!
I recently used Liqui Moly 0w-16 for 5k miles and posted UOA from our 22 Sienna. Look it up, if curios. Although it was with LM Ceratec in it since I had it on hand. My plan was to use 0W-16 until engine warranty expires and then switch to heavier oils, since they are allowed elsewhere where API race for 0.2mpg improvement does not apply. Next OCI I will start using up my very old oil stash of some 5w-20 and 5w-30 oils, 0w-30 German Castrol leftovers and so on. I also snatched a case of 3x5qt of M1 0w-16 on a decent sale, so that would be used during winters in between of summer runs of old stock oil… gota use all up, I already lost couple 5qt jugs since they cracked and started leaking on the shelfs in my garage…
Would you why that so? Mexico is notorious for thicker oil.
Such a rebel you are.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Today's Kendall is a step-up from Mobil Super Synthetic in yesterday's TGMO jugs and bulk tanks. So I suppose Toyota is trending up in oil selection nowadays. But those yesterday's TGMO high MOLY levels are now l-o-n-g gone.
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Our 2022 Rav4 went through the free dealer oil changes and they only did it every other change or 10,000 miles. I elected to take the 1st change at 500 miles then the last change at 1200 miles. In both instances they didn't use TGMO 0W-16 but some bulk oil as stated on the invoice. I change the oil and filter every 6 months despite the mileage and use M1 AFE 0W-16 with a Toyota OEM Filter.
This is what the Australian manual says:
Why? Because it doesn't matter. Yes, Mexico tends to use thicker oil also - its very hot, never cold, and thicker oil is likely easier to source.
Not at all. The rate of break-in metals is falling off exponentially because it’s much, much higher those first few hundred miles.
All those wear particles are not helpful for break in. EVERY new engine should have the factory oil changed within the first 500 miles.
You sure it's not at 357 miles?
When I was a test engineer, we did 3 pulls of 20 minutes on the torque curve to break in a new engine. The oil is then drained and the sample of the resulting refill was taken as the “baseline” and would be the reference for the daily oil samples that followed the remainder of the test (up to 1500 hours on some tests)
The wear metal content of those first 60 minutes of operation would be 10-50 times higher (widely variable) than what you’d see in the baseline.
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Might want to start running Valvoline Restore & Protect. Your rings are likely clogging.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
You are re-living Automobile Dark Age Production. Engines are digitally master-cut these days.
3k is short enough.
Even if it doesn’t burn oil?
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Yes. Rings can be dirty without large amounts of burn if the cylinder bore hasn’t worn too much yet. If it burns oil, irreversible damage has been done. Freeing the rings can improve the rate of burn, but the wear is permanent.
I'm going to keep doing what I've been doing. We can use my vehicles as controls.
There are no material differences in tolerances or processes now that there was 10 years ago. Unless you want to argue that CJ4 oil was terrible and CK4 is super duper more betterer.
872.7 miles or bust.
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