We have a ‘24 RAV4. It’s a wonderful vehicle. The dealer is providing the oil changes for the first 25,000 miles, which is basically 4 changes at 5, 10, 15… Since the vehicle talks to my wife’s phone, this car has become personal to her and she has so far scheduled the first 2 trips in all by herself! We will see what happens in 2 years.
If it were me, I’d run 0-16 for the first 2-3 years - consider it a break-in oil. I wouldn’t expect engine trouble in a ‘yota but we know they’ve had some trouble with the tundra, so it’d be ok to be cautious just in case. TGMO high moly is interesting - a 16 with high moly sounds like an excellent compromise, and it’s great that the factory cares. After the first 3 years I’d move to a 5-20, preferably a thicker in-grade 20. I’m not sure if I’d bother with a 30 weight unless there was a specific need.
I recall a study years ago presented by a Chrysler engine designer. What I remembered:
- the valve train lasts longer with lighter oils
- the bottom end holds up better with heavier oils
- timing chains reduce the life expectancy of oils significantly
- a 5-30 oil needed 1500 rpm for the timing chain to go hydrodynamic. Thicker oils would see that happen sooner.
SO- where is your engine known to be weak? Top end? Bottom end? It seems that it’s a compromise.
FOR ME: I have enjoyed Castrol in the Volvos. No Volvos are owned right now <sniff>. Since then I’ve waffled between Penzoil Platinum and Mobile 1. Mobile 1 seemed to introduce “oil leak smell” for the first 6 weeks on 3 cars when I switched the fleet over from PP, which immediately discouraged me from using it after the stash depleted, and I went back to PP. PP seemed to keep its level on the dipstick longer as well, which was interesting to note. I’ve read, however, that M1 is slightly thicker, which if I was to stay in-grade, is where I’d want to be. Perhaps a penzoil 5-30 but man that gets a little risky if a warranty claim is needed.
