10w30 synthetics?

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Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
I always thought the ideal oil for a lot of the temperate world would be a semi-synthetic, Group II/III, VII-free 10W20.

It would combine low Noack, acceptable cold-flow (for most folks), a splash of fuel economy, zero shear, good oxidative stability, acceptable wear and most important of all; low cost.

To get the 'low cost' angle, you need to understand that whilst a typical oil might consist of 90% base oil and 10% DI/Solid VII, additives are roughly 4 - 5 times the cost of base oil, so typically contribute 40% of the cost. Take out all the VII and you take out the one additive that contributes most to piston deposits. Once you do this, you need less ashless dispersant to clean up the mess caused by VII. Reduce ashless and all things being equal, your Noack goes down even further.

Of course such an oil would be anathema to the oil companies and the AddCo's and the OEMs would never support it because they need their 0W16's and their ilk to max out their CAFE credits, but if you think in terms of what would benefit the general public most, it makes a lot of sense...

I didn't know the VIIs, etc were so expensive. Kinda shuts the door on the notion a few have around here that syn 10w-30s with good numbers like NOACK are a result of the cheapest [censored] base oils and then chock full of additives to improve numbers everyone says no one cares about.



Nothing is ever about the general public.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Do we have any A3/B4's here?

The new Castrol Edge HM 10w-40 meets ACEA A3/B4, alas I realize that is not a 10w-30.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
So, can anyone tell me the NOACK of PUP?


I checked the PDS and it showed 5.7%. 5w-30 showed 6.4%. If I go with PUP I'd go back to 5w-30 knowing its that low. 10w-30 PYB is under 5%.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi


I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.


Some of them are for their respective grades.

The SAE 30 being tested at 10F (-12C)
The 10w-30 being tested at -17F (-27C) approaches the pumpability limit for the grade, which is -30C and is below the -25C CCS temperature.

I would have liked to see a 5w-30 along with the 5w-20 and to continue the trend at lower and lower temperatures but this is not my chart.
 
thanks for that info Torrid and OVERKILL
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
I always thought the ideal oil for a lot of the temperate world would be a semi-synthetic, Group II/III, VII-free 10W20.

It would combine low Noack, acceptable cold-flow (for most folks), a splash of fuel economy, zero shear, good oxidative stability, acceptable wear and most important of all; low cost.

To get the 'low cost' angle, you need to understand that whilst a typical oil might consist of 90% base oil and 10% DI/Solid VII, additives are roughly 4 - 5 times the cost of base oil, so typically contribute 40% of the cost. Take out all the VII and you take out the one additive that contributes most to piston deposits. Once you do this, you need less ashless dispersant to clean up the mess caused by VII. Reduce ashless and all things being equal, your Noack goes down even further.

Of course such an oil would be anathema to the oil companies and the AddCo's and the OEMs would never support it because they need their 0W16's and their ilk to max out their CAFE credits, but if you think in terms of what would benefit the general public most, it makes a lot of sense...

I didn't know the VIIs, etc were so expensive. Kinda shuts the door on the notion a few have around here that syn 10w-30s with good numbers like NOACK are a result of the cheapest [censored] base oils and then chock full of additives to improve numbers everyone says no one cares about.



Nothing is ever about the general public.



Virtually every additive that goes into engine oil increases Noack one way or another. Ashless dispersants, because they have the worst cold flow qualities, tend to increase Noack the most (for a given viscometric balance). Part of the reason I personally dislike Low SAPs oils is because they tend to back fill ash bearing, metallic detergent with ashless dispersant. Directionally this pushes up the Noack of the oil making it more of a problem for exhaust treatment devices; not less!

I am sort of hoping that the concept of 'the general good', so despised by that evil witch, Margaret Thatcher and her gang of cult followers, might be making a come back. Or is that dangerously 'socialist'???
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy

Virtually every additive that goes into engine oil increases Noack one way or another. Ashless dispersants, because they have the worst cold flow qualities, tend to increase Noack the most (for a given viscometric balance). Part of the reason I personally dislike Low SAPs oils is because they tend to back fill ash bearing, metallic detergent with ashless dispersant. Directionally this pushes up the Noack of the oil making it more of a problem for exhaust treatment devices; not less!

I am sort of hoping that the concept of 'the general good', so despised by that evil witch, Margaret Thatcher and her gang of cult followers, might be making a come back. Or is that dangerously 'socialist'???

Mobil declines to share NOACK with its customers, but its M1 5W30 ESP is 0.6 SAPS and a 5.6% NOACK number is floating around based upon a VOA.
 
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
I always thought the ideal oil for a lot of the temperate world would be a semi-synthetic, Group II/III, VII-free 10W20.

It would combine low Noack, acceptable cold-flow (for most folks), a splash of fuel economy, zero shear, good oxidative stability, acceptable wear and most important of all; low cost.

To get the 'low cost' angle, you need to understand that whilst a typical oil might consist of 90% base oil and 10% DI/Solid VII, additives are roughly 4 - 5 times the cost of base oil, so typically contribute 40% of the cost. Take out all the VII and you take out the one additive that contributes most to piston deposits. Once you do this, you need less ashless dispersant to clean up the mess caused by VII. Reduce ashless and all things being equal, your Noack goes down even further.

Of course such an oil would be anathema to the oil companies and the AddCo's and the OEMs would never support it because they need their 0W16's and their ilk to max out their CAFE credits, but if you think in terms of what would benefit the general public most, it makes a lot of sense...

I didn't know the VIIs, etc were so expensive. Kinda shuts the door on the notion a few have around here that syn 10w-30s with good numbers like NOACK are a result of the cheapest [censored] base oils and then chock full of additives to improve numbers everyone says no one cares about.



Nothing is ever about the general public.



Virtually every additive that goes into engine oil increases Noack one way or another. Ashless dispersants, because they have the worst cold flow qualities, tend to increase Noack the most (for a given viscometric balance). Part of the reason I personally dislike Low SAPs oils is because they tend to back fill ash bearing, metallic detergent with ashless dispersant. Directionally this pushes up the Noack of the oil making it more of a problem for exhaust treatment devices; not less!

I am sort of hoping that the concept of 'the general good', so despised by that evil witch, Margaret Thatcher and her gang of cult followers, might be making a come back. Or is that dangerously 'socialist'???
The general good is of no interest to anyone in power. Over here someone will get $500,000 for a 20 minute speech to a mega bank stockholder meeting telling them how wonderful they are and how we couldn't do without them and then that night go on a show and blast mega banks.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I wouldn't buy PP 5W-30 either but rather PP Euro LX 0W-30 which has both a 3.5cP HTHSV and a 204 VI. So not only is it lighter than PP 5W-30 (and way lighter than the 10W-30) at temp's as high as 90F but has a much higher HTHSV to the 10W-30.


You've stated previously that Redline 20s are "really" 30s due to the high HTHS, so do you consider now oils that are "really 40" to be preferable to "ILSAC" 30s ?

BTW, I agree with you, A3/B4 30s are my staple at the moment.
 
I stand amazed that PYB has if I read right; a lower NOACK than PP or PU. Glad I have some PYB 10w30&40 for the jeep in the future
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi


I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.


Some of them are for their respective grades.

The SAE 30 being tested at 10F (-12C)
The 10w-30 being tested at -17F (-27C) approaches the pumpability limit for the grade, which is -30C and is below the -25C CCS temperature.

I would have liked to see a 5w-30 along with the 5w-20 and to continue the trend at lower and lower temperatures but this is not my chart.


It's pretty useful in places like Australia, where even the straight 30 would be acceptable just about everywhere.

20W and 15W are a walk in the park anywhere here.

edit...I've been looking for/at papers for low temperature performance for a couple of years now, and they are limited in information, probably for a number of reasons.

At 0C, they are all pumpable...to do a test that concludes that 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 15W30, and 20W30 all pump satisfactorily at 0C would be testing and demonstrating very little, and just add to test costs...we have the "W" rating to select oils for conditions.

Would solve a great deal of BITOG debate, but that's not the purpose of research papers.

Things like the Esso cold end tests, where everything is tested at -35 or -40C, regardless of it's W rating are great for visual impact, but get misinterpreted.

So the actual research papers tend to be of oils hovering around their pumpability point...because that's where the behaviours and failures that they are exploring are present.
 
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Originally Posted By: car51
I stand amazed that PYB has if I read right; a lower NOACK than PP or PU. Glad I have some PYB 10w30&40 for the jeep in the future


The PQIA apparently could not believe the NOACK result and retested it to be sure.
http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html

Actually pretty good cold viscosity for a 10W, too, well below the max allowed by the spec.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi


I don't find this to be very useful because these temps are not really COLD.


Some of them are for their respective grades.

The SAE 30 being tested at 10F (-12C)
The 10w-30 being tested at -17F (-27C) approaches the pumpability limit for the grade, which is -30C and is below the -25C CCS temperature.

I would have liked to see a 5w-30 along with the 5w-20 and to continue the trend at lower and lower temperatures but this is not my chart.


It's pretty useful in places like Australia, where even the straight 30 would be acceptable just about everywhere.

20W and 15W are a walk in the park anywhere here.

...


I agree, this is useful for Oz and most of the US, as well. I been among those asking why drivers in Florida and South Texas are running 0WXXs.

Just doesn't mean much to me...
 
Originally Posted By: car51
I will say that it's kinda neat that SOPUS is using the GTL in their oils also
smile.gif


It has been stipulated that SOPUS had a suprlus of GTL at one point, so they were adding it to even their mineral product such as PYB. However, this was likely just a temporary condition. Don't count on it to remain like that.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I wouldn't buy PP 5W-30 either but rather PP Euro LX 0W-30 which has both a 3.5cP HTHSV and a 204 VI. So not only is it lighter than PP 5W-30 (and way lighter than the 10W-30) at temp's as high as 90F but has a much higher HTHSV to the 10W-30.
You've stated previously that Redline 20s are "really" 30s due to the high HTHS, so do you consider now oils that are "really 40" to be preferable to "ILSAC" 30s ?

BTW, I agree with you, A3/B4 30s are my staple at the moment.

Pennzoil Q&A:
Quote:
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX SAE 0W-30 is due to launch in North America in the beginning of 2015


I think this oil is probably good fit for my S2000, but they are nowhere to be found.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
I agree, this is useful for Oz and most of the US, as well. I been among those asking why drivers in Florida and South Texas are running 0WXXs.

Just doesn't mean much to me...


To my points on testing at the limits, here's one on what you are talking about.

5W30s run between -35C and -40C

Google Doc Link

Shows what happens to MRV for the 5W oils when tested at -40C...then how they behave in a couple of different engines.

Between -40C and -35C, below the "proper" range for a 5W, the behaviour of the oils in building gallery pressure varies massively.
 
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